dylansalrin

Orthopedic Circulator
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Minneapolis, MN
Hey all, so I went to the scrap yard a couple days ago and saw a 1994 Cherokee with the stock cargo rail setup. I saw it was about 14 torx (the dreaded torx) bolts and it could be mine. 5 minutes and $25 later I was on my way home to install on my hard top. It measured about 60 inches and I had to trim a little and pick up some hardware but below is the process so everyone can do it. FYI. The hard top is NOT meant to handle extreme weights and should not be used to support over 60 lbs.
IMG_2861.JPG


Started out finding this on the xj.

bc3a333c91f72c058b690ac067efc126.jpg


Got it dismantled at the shop. 4 Philips bolts.
Picked up 20 rubber washers, 10 1 inch long stainless bolts, and according lock nuts.

Had to trim the lengths down to 51 inches so I took the end pieces off and used a chop saw and grinder. The end result should mimic the stock factory end you trimmed.

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I also picked up a 1/2 inch by 6 ft piece of steel and already had a tube of silicon laying around to seal up the holes drilled in the hard top. The steel is for the inside of the hard top to evenly distribute the load.

74e2d3f1c4e0100aef1bdb3c9cf4fd00.jpg


I took the two cross members and sanded them with a fine grit sandpaper to make a rough surface and then sprayed them with a couple coats to get rid of the trashy sun damaged look.

5596b52b87533d039d93ab919436c5af.jpg

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Now was the time to put the new bolts in the rails and mark the hard top for drilling. The order of layers should be the following. RAIL, RUBBER WASHER, SILICONE, HARD TOP, ANOTHER RUBBER WASHER, STEEL PLATE, LOCK NUT.

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The first 3 bolts (from the windshield) were on the same piece of steel. The sound bar prohibited the same piece be used all the way down the interior so I had to cut the steel. The first piece is 28 inches. The second is 11 inches (for the last two bolts that will be placed In between the sound bar and the rear windshield.)

The result is this beauty. Very very happy and took it through a car wash with no leaks. Very sturdy and strong to carry lightweight gear.

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Very, very cool. Thanks for the write-up on this!

Someone was literally just asking about this last week.

I'm sure you already know this, but be careful how much weight you throw up on there. I think the general consensus is that anything over 150 lbs. would be pushing it.

I think the end result looks great though. If I didn't know better I would think it came from the factory that way.
 
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Awesome write up. I've been toying with this same idea for awhile.
Yakima wants $340+ for a roof rack and I'm to cheap to pay that much just to haul a kayak.
Plus it has to be low profile enough to clear the garage door. This looks perfect and right up my alley.
 
It was been very useful.!! Can hold a decent amount too. (I wouldn't exceed 70lbs) best of luck!


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Yep, I wouldn't exceed about 70 lbs. either, that's definitely solid advice. But for some light stuff, it would work great.
 
Awesome!! This is perfect. I’ve been waiting on someone to try it out.

This will help me out work wise. I just need to be on the lookout for parts now


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2005 RHD TJ Sport
2010 BMW 528xi
 
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Reviving an old thread here and not sure if the OP (@dylansalrin) is still around but maybe someone else can help. Are the crossbars different widths on different years? I picked up a set of rails and crossbars from a 1999 Cherokee and the crossbars are much wider then the crossbars in this thread. The ones I have are 4ft wide and go to the outer grooves of the top right where the top almost starts to round to the sides. Don’t think it is smart to drilll in this spot because it’s Thicker fiberglass inside because it starts to hollow out there and right along the seam on the inside.
 
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Hey all, so I went to the scrap yard a couple days ago and saw a 1994 Cherokee with the stock cargo rail setup. I saw it was about 14 torx (the dreaded torx) bolts and it could be mine. 5 minutes and $25 later I was on my way home to install on my hard top. It measured about 60 inches and I had to trim a little and pick up some hardware but below is the process so everyone can do it. FYI. The hard top is NOT meant to handle extreme weights and should not be used to support over 60 lbs. View attachment 7883

Started out finding this on the xj.

View attachment 7884

Got it dismantled at the shop. 4 Philips bolts.
Picked up 20 rubber washers, 10 1 inch long stainless bolts, and according lock nuts.

Had to trim the lengths down to 51 inches so I took the end pieces off and used a chop saw and grinder. The end result should mimic the stock factory end you trimmed.

View attachment 7885
View attachment 7886

I also picked up a 1/2 inch by 6 ft piece of steel and already had a tube of silicon laying around to seal up the holes drilled in the hard top. The steel is for the inside of the hard top to evenly distribute the load.

View attachment 7887

I took the two cross members and sanded them with a fine grit sandpaper to make a rough surface and then sprayed them with a couple coats to get rid of the trashy sun damaged look.

View attachment 7888
View attachment 7889

Now was the time to put the new bolts in the rails and mark the hard top for drilling. The order of layers should be the following. RAIL, RUBBER WASHER, SILICONE, HARD TOP, ANOTHER RUBBER WASHER, STEEL PLATE, LOCK NUT.

View attachment 7890
View attachment 7891
View attachment 7892

The first 3 bolts (from the windshield) were on the same piece of steel. The sound bar prohibited the same piece be used all the way down the interior so I had to cut the steel. The first piece is 28 inches. The second is 11 inches (for the last two bolts that will be placed In between the sound bar and the rear windshield.)

The result is this beauty. Very very happy and took it through a car wash with no leaks. Very sturdy and strong to carry lightweight gear.

View attachment 7893
View attachment 7894




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Beautiful Dylan, thanks for sharing!
 
Reviving an old thread here and not sure if the OP (@dylansalrin) is still around but maybe someone else can help. Are the crossbars different widths on different years? I picked up a set of rails and crossbars from a 1999 Cherokee and the crossbars are much wider then the crossbars in this thread. The ones I have are 4ft wide and go to the outer grooves of the top right where the top almost starts to round to the sides. Don’t think it is smart to drilll in this spot because it’s Thicker fiberglass inside because it starts to hollow out there and right along the seam on the inside.

I had this same question. Unless I misread the original post, he makes it sound like he made cuts to reduce the length, not the width of the crossbars right? If so, those crossbars he found were really skinny.

I found a roof rack that was the right length on some kind of 2000 Cherokee Sport or something like that. I decided I was okay with where the bolts would go through, and I just went for it. I didn't have to make any cuts. Here's the result!

I decided on this roof rack because the only things I intend to put up there are skis and fishing poles. I didn't feel it was necessary to spend money on one of those big outer frame roof racks. The roof rack looks just like it belongs.

Thank you to for the idea and instructions @dylansalrin!

full jeep 1.jpg


full jeep 2.jpg


roof rack 1.jpg


roof rack 2.jpg


roof rack 3.jpg
 
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I had this same question. Unless I misread the original post, he makes it sound like he made cuts to reduce the length, not the width of the crossbars right? If so, those crossbars he found were really skinny.

I found a roof rack that was the right length on some kind of 2000 Cherokee Sport or something like that. I decided I was okay with where the bolts would go through, and I just went for it. I didn't have to make any cuts. Here's the result!

I decided on this roof rack because the only things I intend to put up there are skis and fishing poles. I didn't feel it was necessary to spend money on one of those big outer frame roof racks. The roof rack looks just like it belongs.

Thank you to for the idea and instructions @dylansalrin!

View attachment 69965

View attachment 69966

View attachment 69967

View attachment 69968

View attachment 69969
Do you have pics of the I side where it’s bolted?
 
Hey, fellas! Sorry for reviving an old thread, but my brother gave me this same rack off his XJ and I had to try what Dylan, the OP, and some others did. And, boy, am I happy with the results, which I want to share. As AltantaTJOwner and Paintbiscuit noted, there seems to be different sizes of racks, depending on the year of the XJ, but I'd dare to say most of them will fit without having to trim them. It is scary to drill on the original hard top, but once done, I had the feeling it was still as good as before. I only need the rack to haul 2 backpacks with clothes on short camping trips where I don't feel like using my trailer. So I don't think I'll ever load it with more than 40lbs. Encouraging anyone out there who's thinking about this solution for light loads!

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