Yukon Hub Kit With Black Magic Big Brake Kit
- Thread starter 01TJ-Blues
- Start date
OP
I know but I’m sure I’m not the only one that continues to ask so if the info is easy to find he stops getting asked constantly.
They are all roughly the same. The rotor has to have the center bore opened up to fit the bearing hub and then the hole sizes have to be fixed (most always) to accept the press in wheel studs.
Specifics depend on which kit and which brake kit. We do them all from the 15/16 to the 17" kit with both the WU-07 and 08 small and large hub conversions. We've even done the Solid Axle version and a few WJ conversions to work with the 08. (don't do that, it isn't cheap)
Doing a search for my question and came upon this thread (same questions I had a few weeks ago).
If I do the Yukon 07 kit I'd also install equivalent thickness spacers in the rear (or close).
Current new wheels are 3.75" BS to fit 15-16" BMB BBK. That BS would be reduced to approximately 3" with the hub kit.
Do I NEED wheels with more BS (4.5") to prevent excessive positive scrub or am I overthinking the importance of that?
I would like to keep the current new wheels.
Still waffling over the damn 16" beadlocks that happen to be 4.5" BS and the expense of E rated tires or a complete new set of wheels to match my 15" tires.
If I do the Yukon 07 kit I'd also install equivalent thickness spacers in the rear (or close).
Current new wheels are 3.75" BS to fit 15-16" BMB BBK. That BS would be reduced to approximately 3" with the hub kit.
Do I NEED wheels with more BS (4.5") to prevent excessive positive scrub or am I overthinking the importance of that?
I would like to keep the current new wheels.
Still waffling over the damn 16" beadlocks that happen to be 4.5" BS and the expense of E rated tires or a complete new set of wheels to match my 15" tires.
Approximately 3" is not 3" depending on the day. The best it will be is 2.85" and I don't think you'll like that very much.
OP
I’m running the 15” kit and can manage the machining for the rotors and redrilling for the studs.
Thanks a bunch for the info!
That's just the start. Once that is done and mocked up on the knuckle with the bearings and races seated, then you have to check the caliper saddle to ensure it is centered on the rotor. This is also the best time to convert to the larger rotor used in the 16" kit since you are effectively moving the rim outward by about 7/8" which is almost always enough to get a 15" rim to clear.
When you check the rotor holes, they should be .001-.005 interference at the shoulder just under the head of the wheel stud. The hole in the hub flange should be a light press to just a tight slip fit to the smooth section just ahead of the knurling. That gives the proper interference for the knurls.
If you need longer wheel studs, I have a couple of ways to get that done.