Yukon YA WU-07 front hub kit (5x4.5") under $1,100

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How precisely does the F/R track width have to match?
I've found hub centric 1" spacers (assuming 3/4 or 7/8" hub). Is 1" too much?
https://www.extremeterrain.com/tita...tric-wheel-spacers-100-545-715-1220-a1-4.html
We try to maintain the same relationship as stock with some thought given to what we need for outboarding and how the tires are shaped. Typically the back is about 1/2" narrower than the front.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/supr...et-wheel-spacers-set-of-two-8706-jeep-yj.html
82.5mm bore I'll get a measurement off the RGA rear axle.

or lug-centric in 7/8" (I know and agree, not preferred)
https://www.extremeterrain.com/more-7-8-wheel-spacers-pair-8706-yj-tj.html

Sounds like you'd be surprised if the Titan hub-centric would match up with the RGA axle hub?
What then?
Fitting or not fitting would not be a surprise. What would be a surprise is any part matching the rim you will be running. That 7/8" version looks promising but I'd prefer it to match the pilot on the axle shaft for that part to at least be hub centric.
I'm sure you've done a ton of these. What did you do to match up the track width?
I have custom spacers made for the rear axle that slip over the wheel studs and register on the pilot and then inside the rim.
 
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We try to maintain the same relationship as stock with some thought given to what we need for outboarding and how the tires are shaped. Typically the back is about 1/2" narrower than the front.

Fitting or not fitting would not be a surprise. What would be a surprise is any part matching the rim you will be running. That 7/8" version looks promising but I'd prefer it to match the pilot on the axle shaft for that part to at least be hub centric.

I have custom spacers made for the rear axle that slip over the wheel studs and register on the pilot and then inside the rim.
Are those custom spacers to be had by the 'rank & file'? :cool:
 
Are those custom spacers to be had by the 'rank & file'? :cool:

If you are asking if I make and sell them, then no. Wholly project dependent and we get made what we need to at the time. That way if I screw it up, I only have myself to be mad at instead of you, me, and whoever else is involved.
 
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If you are asking if I make and sell them,
Well, not exactly.
then no. Wholly project dependent and we get made what we need to at the time. That way if I screw it up, I only have myself to be mad at instead of you, me, and whoever else is involved.
Could the proper measurements be made and handed off to your supplier for a custom set? Of course, I could easily fuck up the measuring I suppose.

Am I overthinking this by trying to be as attentive to detail as you, or can I make other more standard issue spacers function well enough? Has to be folks with the small hub kit (07) using other than optimal spacers, right?
 
Well, not exactly.

Could the proper measurements be made and handed off to your supplier for a custom set? Of course, I could easily fuck up the measuring I suppose.
Sure, I can hand him a rough drawing and have him build a pair.
Am I overthinking this by trying to be as attentive to detail as you, or can I make other more standard issue spacers function well enough? Has to be folks with the small hub kit (07) using other than optimal spacers, right?
Depends on how messed up what you're trying to fix is. I don't like the rear wider than the front. If that doesn't bother you, then a normal off the shelf spacer can likely work.
 
Sure, I can hand him a rough drawing and have him build a pair.
So noted.
Depends on how messed up what you're trying to fix is. I don't like the rear wider than the front. If that doesn't bother you, then a normal off the shelf spacer can likely work.
Nothing's messed up yet. Hubs not yet installed to change width up front. Both 7/8" lug centric and 1" hub centric spacers arrive today but it will be next week for hubs to get done. I'll test fit my current 15 x 8 x 3.75BS wheels and the 16 x 9-9.75" 4.5" BS wheels to see how it looks and measures and take it from there. Goal is to not mess it up, and I'm sure wider in the rear would drive me nuts.

Or.. (brain fart), set of new wheels with pairs of differing back-spacing. Bye bye tire rotation. That's be the bottom of my list.

I'll either bite the 'E' rated bullet for 16" tires that would have to be purchased $1600 (or 'D' rated Patagonia.. lol) or spring for new wheels with 4.5" BS - less $$$

This is more than just about looks with the added width, correct? Scrub radius, ball joint strain... ??? And it needs to be addressed?
If so, I DO need different wheels than the 3.75"BS?

I appreciate your patience...
 
wider in the rear would drive me nuts.

I'm uncertain whether that in itself, if within reason, would bother me..I'm looking at running something like no spacer in front with a 1" in rear, which would cost me fractions of an inch in the F vs R difference but should still be narrower if the stock axles were 1" narrower in rear. My main concern is to minimize scrub radius and stress on components and have the least possible amount of tire sticking out from the flares as possible. My next set of tires will probably involve 17" wheels simply so I can run the Nitto trail grappler, the only C rated 35x11.5 MT tire I've been able to find from a mainstream manufacturer.
 
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I'm uncertain whether that in itself, if within reason, would bother me..I'm looking at running something like no spacer in front with a 1" in rear, which would cost me fractions of an inch in the F vs R difference but should still be narrower if the stock axles were 1" narrower in rear.
Fractions sounds acceptable to me and would permit the use of the hub centric 1" spacer arriving today. Have yet to measure the thickness of the hub kit.
My main concern is to minimize scrub radius and stress on components
Yup.
and have the least possible amount of tire sticking out from the flares as possible.
..and I have the wide-ass flares on my LJ. Pretty easy eye-ball measurement with those on since they completely cover my tires as it sits today.
My next set of tires will probably involve 17" wheels simply so I can run the Nitto trail grappler, the only C rated 35x11.5 MT tire I've been able to find from a mainstream manufacturer.
Guess I'll always wonder if I made the wrong choice getting 15s with my new Evos. The 15/17 quandary. Revisiting that would cost new tires & wheels. Thinking my current crop of tires will outlive my old ass as it is. I have 33 x 10.5 15 'C' KM2 on the XJ. Other than that you seem to be correct that skinny 'C' and 35s ain't happening.
 
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If anyone orders either of these kits, make sure you get them from Yukon. If you don't, they will not honor any warranty issues you may have. I found this out the hard way!
 
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If anyone orders either of these kits, make sure you get them from Yukon. If you don't, they will not honor any warranty issues you may have. I found this out the hard way!

do they actually sell them directly? There's no "add to cart" button on their website.

I see some more traditional retailers sell them like Dennys, and Summit, but Denny's is out of stock and Summit is $2088.

That's a heck of a business model....only sell through retailers and then only warranty parts that are sold direct.
 
If anyone orders either of these kits, make sure you get them from Yukon. If you don't, they will not honor any warranty issues you may have. I found this out the hard way!
D
If anyone orders either of these kits, make sure you get them from Yukon. If you don't, they will not honor any warranty issues you may have. I found this out the hard way!
I got on chat with Yukon before buying, asked if warranty honored with Amazon purchase. Standard Yukon warranty applies was the answer. Order shipped from Quick Performance in Iowa.
Fingers crossed I guess.
 
do they actually sell them directly? There's no "add to cart" button on their website.

I see some more traditional retailers sell them like Dennys, and Summit, but Denny's is out of stock and Summit is $2088.

That's a heck of a business model....only sell through retailers and then only warranty parts that are sold direct.
They have a Yukon store on Amazon.
D

I got on chat with Yukon before buying, asked if warranty honored with Amazon purchase. Standard Yukon warranty applies was the answer. Order shipped from Quick Performance in Iowa.
Fingers crossed I guess.

I bought through an Amazon seller, from the Midwest I believe, and when I contacted Yukon about an issue with a stub shaft, the representative literally told me I should have bought from them and that they couldn't/wouldn't help me.

Thankfully, the place I bought it from helped make things right, but it was at his expense. I sent a follow-up to Yukon about my experience and basically got the same response. MaybeI just had a bad experience, but it was enough to sour me on buying anything from them in the future. :(
 
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They have a Yukon store on Amazon.


I bought through an Amazon seller, from the Midwest I believe, and when I contacted Yukon about an issue with a stub shaft, the representative literally told me I should have bought from them and that they couldn't/wouldn't help me.

Thankfully, the place I bought it from helped make things right, but it was at his expense. I sent a follow-up to Yukon about my experience and basically got the same response. MaybeI just had a bad experience, but it was enough to sour me on buying anything from them in the future. :(

Unfortunately the only hub mfgr I know of on a must have to eliminate the shudder.
 
D

I got on chat with Yukon before buying, asked if warranty honored with Amazon purchase. Standard Yukon warranty applies was the answer. Order shipped from Quick Performance in Iowa.
Fingers crossed I guess.

They have told us straight up that they don't honor Amazon and eBay purchases. It is a good thing I keep spare parts around, the last one I got in to adapt to a brake kit had all 4 spindle bearings the same. 4 outers. No inners. Don't know why I need extras of the same part, but I got'em now.
 
They have a Yukon store on Amazon.


I bought through an Amazon seller, from the Midwest I believe, and when I contacted Yukon about an issue with a stub shaft, the representative literally told me I should have bought from them and that they couldn't/wouldn't help me.

Thankfully, the place I bought it from helped make things right, but it was at his expense. I sent a follow-up to Yukon about my experience and basically got the same response. MaybeI just had a bad experience, but it was enough to sour me on buying anything from them in the future. :(

Some jeep parts I've bought from 4wd shops with Amazon stores come with their own invoice printed off in the box. Maybe Yukon would accept that if there's no indication it came from Amazon.

I can understand trying to protect themselves from having to support counterfeit parts they didn't even make, but it's hard to imagine somebody pulling off a copy of a hub kit with any success at all due to the number of parts and complexity, and the fact that the real supplier cant even get it right a lot of the time.
 
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If anyone orders either of these kits, make sure you get them from Yukon. If you don't, they will not honor any warranty issues you may have. I found this out the hard way!

Yukon has dealers that sell their parts, and Yukon is bound to their warranty if you purchased from one of their dealers.

Not sure who you purchased your kit from but Quick Performance is listed as a dealer on Yukon’s website.

I verified this with Yukon before I purchased my kit.

Current as of today:

D18A27A4-4CEA-454C-8432-7BFB17652E24.jpeg
 
Some jeep parts I've bought from 4wd shops with Amazon stores come with their own invoice printed off in the box. Maybe Yukon would accept that if there's no indication it came from Amazon.

The following summary may help make sense of what you’ve noticed.

Not all Amazon purchases are equal and there is reasoning for why some items sold on Amazon are Prime and others are not.

If you buy an Amazon Prime item, then that item ships directly from an Amazon warehouse to you.

If you order a non-Prime item, then that item generally ships from the seller (could also come from a distributor/manufacturer). Here, the seller uses Amazon’s platform for more exposure/sales but doesn’t utilize Amazon for inventory/shipping.

Edit: If warranty or authenticity is a concern, pay attention to who the seller of the part is when you purchase on Amazon. For example, the listing might say Mopar at the top, but the seller might be XYZ Discount Parts, LLC.
 
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Got it. These are my axles (5-760):
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...volution-gear-discovery-series-front-axle-kit

Gonna pull the new UCF engine skid, then the front driveline and see what shakes out. Then, depending, off to the driveline shop for a balance. He suggested a larger diameter front driveshaft as a possible remedy. Beats me..
Had the front driveshaft re-balanced and the shop owner told me he thought he got 90% of the shudder out. Said he could feel it come in at 30mph on up and it was a bit severe on the balancer (3700rpm).
Fast forward a few weeks (awful cold weather, busy with the holiday, and laziness) I finally got around to dropping the front driveline for myself for a test comparison.

So, I had a buddy come over today (so I could show him how to install tire chains with cam-locks) and put him on the shudder issue for a second, unbiased opinion (that confirmation bias I first heard about here). He'd never been in my LJ so hasn't felt the shudder. We pulled the front driveline off the diff, strapped it up and went for a spin @ 70mph for about a mile or two. Smooth, very smooth.
Then we put the DS back in and repeated. Smooth again. He said he noticed no vibes or sound in either config and could feel/hear no difference - and I agree - nothing to differentiate the two drives.

I'll take the rear driveshaft in to check/balance for shits 'n giggles and I think this thing is good to go without the hubs and/or tire/wheels, spacers, etc. and further expense. As much as I like manual hubs I think I can live w/o them on this one ($$$$).

Thinking I might order the -07 Yukon kit while it's available and if not needed (fat chance) then I could sell unopened. Fingers crossed that Yukon won't screw the pooch and send me incorrect or incomplete parts (another fat chance with my luck).
I have til January 31 for return of the $1020 Yukon kit to Amazon and a couple pairs of wheel spacers.

I'm totally unaccustomed to this kind of good fortune.

Had a fun Saturday in the snow in the XJ. (Blaspheme!)

XJ Snow 22.jpg
 
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The following summary may help make sense of what you’ve noticed.

Not all Amazon purchases are equal and there is reasoning for why some items sold on Amazon are Prime and others are not.

If you buy an Amazon Prime item, then that item ships directly from an Amazon warehouse to you.

If you order a non-Prime item, then that item generally ships from the seller (could also come from a distributor/manufacturer). Here, the seller uses Amazon’s platform for more exposure/sales but doesn’t utilize Amazon for inventory/shipping.

Edit: If warranty or authenticity is a concern, pay attention to who the seller of the part is when you purchase on Amazon. For example, the listing might say Mopar at the top, but the seller might be XYZ Discount Parts, LLC.

yes, exactly.

When I bought my E-Locker it sold and shipped from Drivetrain America, arrived with a Drivetrain America invoice with no indication it had been an Amazon order. If I had any warranty trouble with it, I would use the Drivetrain America invoice as proof of purchase.

@NOTNSUV did you receive an invoice from Quick Performance Racing? They look to be a legitimate race shop in Iowa. I might try to buy direct from them if I end up with enough left over after Christmas.
 
yes, exactly.

When I bought my E-Locker it sold and shipped from Drivetrain America, arrived with a Drivetrain America invoice with no indication it had been an Amazon order. If I had any warranty trouble with it, I would use the Drivetrain America invoice as proof of purchase.

@NOTNSUV did you receive an invoice from Quick Performance Racing? They look to be a legitimate race shop in Iowa. I might try to buy direct from them if I end up with enough left over after Christmas.

@Mikee024 brought QPR to my attention. The fact that they were the vendor via Amazon for my Yukon kit was pure coincidence, but I did see it when I placed the order. So yes, they are a legit shop in Iowa.
As for the invoice, I haven't even looked. I dropped the sealed box with my installer thinking it would be sooner than later for the install and to my knowledge it has yet to be opened. I will check it out for an invoice later this week when I drop my rear shaft for balance and pick up the Yukon stuff for return.
 
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