Zone lift (18 months later)

[Eddie Greenlee]

ya know, as much time as i have spent reading threads and bugging yall about suspension lifts and learning what components make or brake a lift, even a budget guy like myself can afford the good stuff over time. After yalls advice to change the RC shocks it made a big difference. Then added the upper double adj. savvy control arms, and that made a difference. I then up graded to a stockier adj. track and tie rod, even better. SOOO if yall are telling me that by changing out my RC 4" springs will make a HUGE difference on the road as well as the trails then That will be my next upgrade ?? !!

 

[Ahoragi]

I would say the spring rate difference might change it a bit but I wouldn't expect that much of an improvement. I went from OME, to 3" Rusty's HD springs, and then to RC's 4.5" springs on my other jeep and there was not much noticeable difference. It's the shocks that do much of that. My experience with RC springs has been positive and I ran them for years without sag. Others have different experience.

My personal advice is if the ride is fine and springs are not sagging then wait till they are worn to replace.

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

and springs are not sagging

is it pretty easy to tell when the springs are sagging? i guess because when setting on level ground the jeep would be lower or not level on one of the corners??

 

[stripes3]

Nice! Just ordered the same Savvy 3" and Savvy Fox shocks (shocks backordered) so I a have time to prepare. This is for my 06 LJ with a worn out ProComp 2" (installed by PO). I have seen various old posts which raised some questions about uptravel. What did you end up at for uptravel? Also, what's your estimate on how much actual lift on your rig?

 

[Fouledplugs]

I've seen it a a lot around all the Jeep forums. It's like clockwork around here, it's more than likely that you will get what you pay for when it comes to Jeep parts. Buy cheap, and you'll be kicking yourself when you see your buddies who chose quality over price and you realize the difference it can make.

Chances are high that if you buy a lift "kit," the shocks will suck.

Your best bet is to find the nicest shocks you can afford or want to afford for your desired application and purchase them with your kit. Sell the kit shocks and that will absorb some of the cost from the high end shocks.

I understand money doesnt grow on trees but be patient with your build. And I understand we can't all buy the best.

 

[JMT]

is it pretty easy to tell when the springs are sagging? i guess because when setting on level ground the jeep would be lower or not level on one of the corners??

Just measure to see what lift you actually have vs what you are supposed to have with your springs. Stock on front is 12" from the bottom of the spring to the top of the spring (don't include the coil spring isolators). Rear is 8". So if you have a 3" lift your front should be at 15" and rear at 11". If it's less than that you have sag...

X2 to the ride quality above. That depends on shocks. All the springs do is support the weight of the vehicle. The shocks cause the vehicle to return to proper height so it doesn't bounce down the road on the springs...

 

[Chris]

I've seen it a a lot around all the Jeep forums. It's like clockwork around here, it's more than likely that you will get what you pay for when it comes to Jeep parts. Buy cheap, and you'll be kicking yourself when you see your buddies who chose quality over price and you realize the difference it can make.

Chances are high that if you buy a lift "kit," the shocks will suck.

Your best bet is to find the nicest shocks you can afford or want to afford for your desired application and purchase them with your kit. Sell the kit shocks and that will absorb some of the cost from the high end shocks.

I understand money doesnt grow on trees but be patient with your build. And I understand we can't all buy the best.

So true. I see so many people make the same mistake over-and-over again. They want an instant lift, but they don't have enough money. They cheap out and buy one of these poor quality lifts, and then they end up regretting it down the road.

I always tell people that if you have the will power, you should save your money. Sure, you may have to drop 2k or more for a high quality lift, but you get what you pay for. And usually (not always, but usually) that is the case in life, you get what you pay for.

I understand the urge to want to get something on the cheap (we all have that tendency), but in the case of lifts, there is a reason that some of these lifts are so cheap.

 

[stripes3]

Look at the spring pictures in the first post. Compare wire diameter of the fronts and the number of twists front and rear. Easy to see the better quality. I am not knocking the zones either. I looked at them as well, but went for the better Savvy. But, I am also older, wiser and have more resources than I did when I was younger, back then I couldn't afford better leafs or even taller shackles for my CJ-5. Everyone has to make their own choices based on many factors.

I had a 86 Fiero that I bought in 87, that would hang with my buddy's Dad's Formula 350 Firebird in the curves and up until about 120mph, then the Firebird pulled away. Driver skill accounted for some of that, but my point is, was the Fiero, a 350 Firebird? Nope, but I had a helluva lot of fun with it.

 

[CasterTroy]

I have seen various old posts which raised some questions about uptravel. What did you end up at for uptravel? Also, what's your estimate on how much actual lift on your rig?

3" Spring Fr/Rr
1" spacers in the rear because of gear
1.25" body
When I went to 35's I had to have longer rear bumpstops because the tires rub the inner fenders at the 2:00 position (drivers side) because of the slight wheelbase stretch of the Ironman arms. It was a trial and error task to get JUST the right trim on the bumpstops. Eventually I will cut the body and bumpstops to gain more flex, but waiting to see if I stretch the wheelbase any more and just comp cut the rear or not. Still undecided.

I have all my numbers SOMEWHERE in the garage, but had a failure in one of my wall units

Sending ALL my junk into the floor..... I'm in the middle of rebuilding now. If I find them I'll post them, but before I put in the new springs and shocks I cycled everything with and without the bumpstops and wrote everything down for future reference (now I can't find that notebook)

 

[Ahoragi]

Now that is a sweet garage.

Nice lamp. lol

 

[CasterTroy]

Nice lamp. lol

Man...dont' be dissin my lamp!!!

Few upgrades since that pic...led lighting under the shelves and mass clutter

 

[CasterTroy]

OH, and my drunk ground hawg buddy

 

[Ahoragi]

You should paint those cabinets black....or just wait till they turn black.

 

[CasterTroy]

That last pic was after a gear change....so they were pretty filthy. They clean up just fine.

 

[Hopper]

So an update since the Fox 2.0 Shocks and Currie/Savvy 3" progressive springs.

Coupled with my IronmanFab4x4 short arm kit, and antirock, these springs and shocks make an ABSOLUTE world of difference on the trail. Before, the trails would beat the hell out of me. After 4 hrs I was begging for my chair by the fire back at camp (and a camp chair is by no means a Lazyboy)
This time out though? WOW, what a difference!
Where before the side to side was drastic, it was a mere sway, and big drops? Like a trophy truck! The low speed compression and rebound is AMAZING. The high speed is impressive as well but not nearly as dramatic a difference as low speed. It truly is like riding in a Cadillac in the woods!

Just do I am hearing you right. You have a 1"BL,1"MML and 3" Currie springs. Is this correct? I was eying the Zone lift and know want to piece something together with better parts.