What is this tiny hose on my 2006 Rubicon diff?

Slashbrewer

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Changing rear diff oil on 2006 LJ Ruby. Tiny clamp on tiny tube/hose was loose. It didnt seem to have much life left in it. What is this? Concern?
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Thanks!

(know almost nothing about diff/axles 🥺)

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That's the locker's air hose and is what provides the locker with 5 psi to engage the locker. Clean it up and slip that small clamp that slid down down to the bottom back up onto the hose so it holds the hose securely onto the tube it fits over.
Forgive my ignorance…i thought my lockers were “electric” as its just a dash switch and I dont know of any compressor like airlockers i have seen in others. The electrical connect does in fact attact at the top of the housing….so does that somehow produce air? Vs an electromechanical mechanism?

i haven’t had good luck finding any diagrams 🥺
 
Forgive my ignorance…i thought my lockers were “electric” as its just a dash switch and I dont know of any compressor like airlockers i have seen in others. The electrical connect does in fact attact at the top of the housing….so does that somehow produce air? Vs an electromechanical mechanism?

i haven’t had good luck finding any diagrams 🥺
There's a small factory air compressor originally located on the upper back side of the transfer case skid plate.

The newer (07+) Jeep OEM lockers are electric but the TJ/TJ Unlimited Rubicon use low pressure air lockers.
 
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Forgive my ignorance…i thought my lockers were “electric” as its just a dash switch and I dont know of any compressor like airlockers
Electric lockers didn't come along until 2007, yours are air-powered. The 5-psi compressors are mounted on the tcase skid plate just behind the transfer case.
 
Like Jerry said. Remove the hose, clean up everything, put hose and clamp back on. Replace small clamp if neccessary
Well, how about that ….right where you guys said it was! 😁
Well I did put it back but i didnt clean or replace. Honestly didnt want to mess with things I didnt know about. The clamp didnt seem like it had much life in….and I sealed it with RTV. Was waiting to cure, so at least I didnt fill it yet.
That clamp may be the smallest hose clamp I have ever seen….hope the parts store has something.

thanks for the help!

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Once you put the hose on you can actually see how it works if you're curious.

Jack up the rear axle so the tires can spin. Leave it in Park (or 1st, if manual), and release the parking brake. Put the key in the ignition and set it to Run (no need to start the engine). Hit the locker switch. With the engine off, you'll hear one of the locker pumps on top of the skid plate turn on for a few seconds and then turn off once it's pressurized.

Then grab a tire and try to turn it. It may turn a bit and click but it won't go more than a few degrees.

You'll notice that the disc thing next to where the hose enters moved left a small amount. What happens is that compressed air fills a bladder, pushing that ring, along with a dog clutch, that stops the wheels from spinning relative to one another.

Turn off the locker, and the bladder depressurizes and suddenly you can freely spin your tires again.

Kind of cool to see if you've never really looked.
 
Well, how about that ….right where you guys said it was! 😁
Well I did put it back but i didnt clean or replace. Honestly didnt want to mess with things I didnt know about. The clamp didnt seem like it had much life in….and I sealed it with RTV. Was waiting to cure, so at least I didnt fill it yet.
That clamp may be the smallest hose clamp I have ever seen….hope the parts store has something.

thanks for the help!

View attachment 261334
Using RTV sealant on that air hose probably isn't the best idea.
 
Using RTV sealant on that air hose probably isn't the best idea.
Oh i put it on the cover, not the hose. But i sounds like i will be taking it off again.

Side note: i was moving at a slow speed and had a big bump/clunk from the rear pass side. If felt like someone hit me feom behind at a slow speed. I pulled off the road to inspect i pulled on my tires on both sides and it felt a little sloppy. Not lnowing what was going on, i called for my dad and i had him do the same. It seems like a (sway?) bar clicked as it moves and mane the bushing were bad. I decided to drive home to jack up and inspect, but at about 25 mph, my warning chime went off and wouldnt stop!! No dash lights or gauges showed anything. I pulled over and had it towed.

anyway, i had a theory that somethibg shorted with an “electric” locker and caused the clunk and some weird voltage fluctuation that I read could produce the mystery chime.

The loose clamp does seem to support possibly the clunk being caused by the locker. But seems to require positive pressure (not a loose hose) and i am not sure explains the chime?
 
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Oh i put it on the cover, not the hose. But i sounds like i will be taking it off again.

Side note: i was moving at a slow speed and had a big bump/clunk from the rear pass side. If felt like someone hit me feom behind at a slow speed. I pulled off the road to inspect i pulled on my tires on both sides and it felt a little sloppy. Not lnowing what was going on, i called for my dad and i had him do the same. It seems like a (sway?) bar clicked as it moves and mane the bushing were bad. I decided to drive home to jack up and inspect, but at about 25 mph, my warning chime went off and wouldnt stop!! No dash lights or gauges showed anything. I pulled over and had it towed.

anyway, i had a theory that somethibg shorted with an “electric” locker and caused the clunk and some weird voltage fluctuation that I read could produce the mystery chime.

The loose clamp does seem to support possibly the clunk being caused by the locker. But seems to require positive pressure (not a loose hose) and i am not sure explains the chime?
A lot of things going on here.

1st, the chime? I'm not real sure where to go with this one as I have never driven or even been around a Rubicon to know if the lockers have any kind of warning sensor or not....


2nd, When you say "it felt a little sloppy", what exactly felt sloppy, the body sway, axle end play...? The sway bar bushings would definitely account for clunking sounds and instability but should have nothing to do with any warning chimes.

3rd the locker, we already addressed the air vs electric so you've already ruled that theory out, As for the locker causing any kind of "clunk", the only time a locker will/could cause something likened to that description is when there is a difference in axle rpm from left to right. Mechanical lockers are famous for that while turning because of the ratcheting nature of how they work. Selectable lockers are effectively open differentials when unlocked and a "spool" when locked. If the locker engaged on it's own, unless you happened to be turning at the time or one tire had a significant height difference than the other, you'd probably never know it engaged.

3.b. Yes the locker does require positive pressure to engage. That being said there is one scenario that could be applied, although it's highly unlikely, and that is that your locker was stuck in the "engaged" position for one reason or another, and again, if you were turning or tire height is drastically different it could clunk when disengaging.

It's not much help but it rules out some things... Where in Washington do you live. There's a pretty good chance you might be close to someone who does have more knowledge that could help.
 
A disconnected locker air line rules out the locker basically, you need to check your sway bar ends and rear control arm bushings, the rear track bar and shock mounts as well as make sure the coil
Spring isolaters arent degraded, late model Rubis will do that. You will see red chunks laying around usually.
 
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That clunk you heard was probably caused by over tightening the diff fill plug which causes interference with the internal mechanism. It’s a common occurrence and easily fixed by backing the fill plug out slightly.
 
That clunk you heard was probably caused by over tightening the diff fill plug which causes interference with the internal mechanism. It’s a common occurrence and easily fixed by backing the fill plug out slightly.
Wouldn't that be a repetitive occurrence, not a one time thing that also felt like something hit the right rear of his jeep (his words)
 
Wouldn't that be a repetitive occurrence, not a one time thing that also felt like something hit the right rear of his jeep (his words)
After a couple of hits the diff will self clearance the magnet portion of the diff plug, thats exactly what happened to my first Rubicon. No more noises after a few rotations but the magnet was destroyed.
 
After a couple of hits the diff will self clearance the magnet portion of the diff plug, thats exactly what happened to my first Rubicon. No more noises after a few rotations but the magnet was destroyed.
Here's what he said
"Side note: i was moving at a slow speed and had a big bump/clunk from the rear pass side. If felt like someone hit me feom behind at a slow speed. I pulled off the road to inspect i pulled on my tires on both sides and it felt a little sloppy. Not lnowing what was going on, i called for my dad and i had him do the same. It seems like a (sway?) bar clicked as it moves and mane the bushing were bad. I decided to drive home to jack up and inspect, but at about 25 mph, my warning chime went off and wouldnt stop!! No dash lights or gauges showed anything. I pulled over and had it towed."

I interpret that as him saying, he had been driving already and then out of no where something happened.