Non-Key-Powered Accessories

[FarFire70]

I don't believe that is how the chime works. I think it chimes when the key is off, and the headlights are on, before you even pull them out, which will work even if you defeat the interior lights.

I stand corrected - I checked the owner's manual and ran a quick experiment. Keys don't matter. It's about the headlights switch and the driver's door.

This may be different by year, but this is the situation for a 2005.

 

[NskLJ]

I'm planning to install a second OEM PDC under the hood that is powered from the battery via a key-on/acc activated relay.

As I'm thinking this through, I'm curious what everyone has for accessories that don't require key-on and/or key-acc.

I figure I'll add circuits to the original PDC for any non-key-powered accessories. I'm just struggling to think what that would be...

—-

My key-on accessories that will go in the new PDC include:

• Seat Heaters
• CB radio
• Hardtop defroster (get the fuse out from the driver footwell)
• Hardtop wiper (get the fuse out of the driver footwell)
• Air Compressor
• Rear Locker
• Activation power to relays added to protect blower motor switch

I know it's not many accessories, but I figure more to come. I was going with a Blue Sea fuse block but, since I've gotten more into pinning connectors, I like a clean install and was underwhelmed with aftermarket options. So I went PDC (overkill for sure); plus, I can use the relays within as well.

I used the factory PDC for accessories I added. I went to a pick your part junkyard and found a like PDC and used the terminals with wire pigtail that fits into the factory box. Ent of extra fuse and relay spots. ( I think I got the box out of a ford) just look for one that is the same.

 

[FarFire70]

I used the factory PDC for accessories I added. I went to a pick your part junkyard and found a like PDC and used the terminals with wire pigtail that fits into the factory box. Ent of extra fuse and relay spots. ( I think I got the box out of a ford) just look for one that is the same.

Still, those run hot all the time from the battery - see my reference above. The PDC fuses usually then trigger to a fused circuit that has the ACC fuse in the fuse block (glove box) and a relay in the PDC.

At first read, I thought you were mentioning getting a similar vehicle fuse block (behind glove box) for terminals for ACC-triggered circuits, now that's an idea I can get behind. Hmm...

 

[Lou]

There is no point to have a high amperage key switch source. Use relays. Relay control can be via key switch power and draws almost no current.

 

[MikekiM]

Have you considered the Painless Performance CirKit Boss fuse block? Seven circuits, three hot and four switched.

I added this a few years ago. Super easy install. I run seat warmer, Comms, all tailgate accessories (12v aux and two sets of lights), etc. Mounted in the passenger footwell.

 

[NskLJ]

Still, those run hot all the time from the battery - see my reference above. The PDC fuses usually then trigger to a fused circuit that has the ACC fuse in the fuse block (glove box) and a relay in the PDC.

At first read, I thought you were mentioning getting a similar vehicle fuse block (behind glove box) for terminals for ACC-triggered circuits, now that's an idea I can get behind. Hmm...

If you trigger the relay off an accessory circuit, then it is a acc triggered relay. Most of my Aux relays run battery power but the switches use accessory power to trigger the relay thus shutting off everything when the key is off or in the start position.

 

[NskLJ]

A solenoid is probably what you're looking for which will handle a higher capacity.



I personally placed a fuse block inside for running inside thing. Much less wiring that way.

Most of your things will require their own relays to run off switches anyway (most switches are rated for about 4-5 amps). Why not just run power to those switches via ACC and then you don't have to worry about the ACC controlled fuse block?

I have used a Genuine Bosch 100 amp relay many times to power aux fuse boxes, these work well. I have never had an issue with them.

 

[deserteagle56]

Years ago I wired in a separate power point unit that runs directly off the battery. Three 12v ports and a couple USB charging ports. But that's because I use my Jeep for Search and Rescue operations so I run a couple GPS units plus a HAM radio. Can't have those turning off just because I've stopped and turned off the engine for a minute. The separate power point has a red light on it when it is turned on, I've yet to forget to turn it off and drain the battery.

 

[FarFire70]

There is no point to have a high amperage key switch source. Use relays. Relay control can be via key switch power and draws almost no current.

Agreed. This is one of the reasons I poured to change out the Blue Sea fuse block for a second PDC so I'd have a bank of relays with fuses.

Have you considered the Painless Performance CirKit Boss fuse block? Seven circuits, three hot and four switched.

I added this a few years ago. Super easy install. I run seat warmer, Comms, all tailgate accessories (12v aux and two sets of lights), etc. Mounted in the passenger footwell.


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View attachment 527844

That's a clean setup.

I looked at a bunch of setups along the way. I went this PDC route, acknowledging it's likely over kill. But does future proof me. And gives me plenty of relays.

If you trigger the relay off an accessory circuit, then it is a acc triggered relay. Most of my Aux relays run battery power but the switches use accessory power to trigger the relay thus shutting off everything when the key is off or in the start position.

That's the way to go. Matched up with OEM approach.

Years ago I wired in a separate power point unit that runs directly off the battery. Three 12v ports and a couple USB charging ports. But that's because I use my Jeep for Search and Rescue operations so I run a couple GPS units plus a HAM radio. Can't have those turning off just because I've stopped and turned off the engine for a minute. The separate power point has a red light on it when it is turned on, I've yet to forget to turn it off and drain the battery.

View attachment 527901

Makes sense. USB / 12V 'Cigarette' outlet make a lot of sense to be 'always on'.

 

[NskLJ]

Years ago I wired in a separate power point unit that runs directly off the battery. Three 12v ports and a couple USB charging ports. But that's because I use my Jeep for Search and Rescue operations so I run a couple GPS units plus a HAM radio. Can't have those turning off just because I've stopped and turned off the engine for a minute. The separate power point has a red light on it when it is turned on, I've yet to forget to turn it off and drain the battery.

View attachment 527901

You can also install a timer relay to keep everything on for a few minutes after the key is turned off. We do this with the computer trucks at work to allow them to send data and last gps location.