Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Flooding out

I've checked 3 times now running or not, as well as vacuum lines. I've jiggle everything to see if I can get it to short out or clear up with no result. I been at this for a month now, unfortunately that's why I'm reverting to the forum. I'll check again though maybe 4th time is the charm. Thanks
 
Mikephenix said:
I've checked 3 times now running or not, as well as vacuum lines. I've jiggle everything to see if I can get it to short out or clear up with no result. I been at this for a month now, unfortunately that's why I'm reverting to the forum. I'll check again though maybe 4th time is the charm. Thanks
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I just went through this a few months ago. The symptom was it would run rough, throw a CEL for cam sensor/CPS.
The owner threw a CPS and cam sensor with no change. Same code or no code and still run rough and cut out.
They threw more parts at it, coil rail, plugs, air filter, and finally we checked the timing, set it with the DRB, test drove it 45 miles with zero issue. Before it got to us, we told them to check the harness. They said they did multiple times. We said check it again. They said they did. Alright fine, we'll throw the scanner on it and see what it is doing but please stop throwing parts at it.

Owner drives it home and at 47 miles it starts doing it again. They call and we say check the harness.
They instead throw a fuel pump at it which I told them would not fix the problem. It didn't.

Owner kept saying he could repeat it mostly by turning right and going uphill. Check the harness. We did, check it again.

Finally they dig into it and find the place behind the motor down low where the harness is chafed and shorting.
 
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These are common areas for wiring problems. also inspect the injector harness along the intake manifold.
Unplug and inspect the coil connector for corrosion.
Have you installed a noid light to see if you are losing injector pulse?
Try unplugging your pre cat O2 sensors and see how it runs.
 
mrblaine said:
I just went through this a few months ago. The symptom was it would run rough, throw a CEL for cam sensor/CPS.
The owner threw a CPS and cam sensor with no change. Same code or no code and still run rough and cut out.
They threw more parts at it, coil rail, plugs, air filter, and finally we checked the timing, set it with the DRB, test drove it 45 miles with zero issue. Before it got to us, we told them to check the harness. They said they did multiple times. We said check it again. They said they did. Alright fine, we'll throw the scanner on it and see what it is doing but please stop throwing parts at it.

Owner drives it home and at 47 miles it starts doing it again. They call and we say check the harness.
They instead throw a fuel pump at it which I told them would not fix the problem. It didn't.

Owner kept saying he could repeat it mostly by turning right and going uphill. Check the harness. We did, check it again.

Finally they dig into it and find the place behind the motor down low where the harness is chafed and shortingI'll check it
Click to expand...
 
Yes I've checked the injectors and unplugged the top 02 sensors with no change either. I'll check the wire harness again
 
Mikephenix said:
Yes I've checked the injectors and unplugged the top 02 sensors with no change either. I'll check the wire harness again
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If you wondered why the owner above didn't ask us to check the wire harness it is because he knew that had he done so, the entire harness would have been pulled, laid out on the ground and gone over with a fine-tooth comb to find any little thing wrong and fix it with all new loom. He would rather put up with the issue than eliminate the harness that way.
 
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Throwing my two cents in. This sounds like a stuck injector. When the symptoms arise, take a test light connected to battery positive. With a t-pin, one by one, backprobe the injector control wires. Touch the t-pin with your incandescent test light. If one lights, you've found your dead short. This eliminates the guessing game and proves once and for all you have a short. Another way of conducting the same test if you don't have a test light, would be to unplug each pigtail with the key on. Touch both female pins with a DVM set to volts DC. If you read 12 volts on any pigtail, that pigtail has a short on the control wire.
 
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Mikephenix said:
I will thanks
Click to expand...
The beauty of this is that when you find a short with a test light, you can shake and wiggle the harness with the test light still connected. The minute it flickers or goes out, you know where the short is without having to disassemble the entire harness.
 
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I hope that's it. I have checked and replaced plugs diagnosing because they were soaked with fuel once when i did the pressure test. Not just one but all of them were soaked though
 
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ItchyDong said:
Throwing my two cents in. This sounds like a stuck injector. When the symptoms arise, take a test light connected to battery positive. With a t-pin, one by one, backprobe the injector control wires. Touch the t-pin with your incandescent test light. If one lights, you've found your dead short. This eliminates the guessing game and proves once and for all you have a short. Another way of conducting the same test if you don't have a test light, would be to unplug each pigtail with the key on. Touch both female pins with a DVM set to volts DC. If you read 12 volts on any pigtail, that pigtail has a short on the control wire.
Click to expand...
None of the injector are reading 12v
 
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