I personally wouldn't replace anything until I calculated mileage like @Viking Jeeper says, even the IAT.
It works kinda like this, especially the newer modelsWonky level/gauge system.
Thanks JB. As always, I will take your advise.Those special O2 sockets with the slot milled into them for the O2 wiring are used to install a new O2 sensor, not remove the old one. If your existing O2 sensor is typical it is seized in the header and that slot cut into the side of the O2 socket can cause the socket to spread open and slip/spin on the sensor when enough pressure to remove the sensor is applied.
To remove the O2 sensor use a standard 7/8 deep socket or, depending on which one it is, a box-end wrench. Cut the wires off from the old O2 sensor so the standard deep 7/8" socket will fit over it. And because O2 sensors are so often seized, it may be required to get the engine good and hot to help get it to unscrew. It's can be a painful bitch to work in that area when the engine is hot so be careful.
Hahaha!! Yep, that's about how mine works, it's a 99. Wonder if it would hurt anything to run out totally one day, just to mark the display where true E is?
I'm not familiar with these. Where is the temperature sensor for the fan located?Also, i should of mentioned its the flex a lite electric fan with 2 stage aluminum radiator. (For best flow). Plus has an electric dial to set temp, which i believe is 195
Those special O2 sockets with the slot milled into them for the O2 wiring are used to install a new O2 sensor, not remove the old one. If your existing O2 sensor is typical it is seized in the header and that slot cut into the side of the O2 socket can cause the socket to spread open and slip/spin on the sensor when enough pressure to remove the sensor is applied.
To remove the O2 sensor use a standard 7/8 deep socket or, depending on which one it is, a box-end wrench. Cut the wires off from the old O2 sensor so the standard deep 7/8" socket will fit over it. And because O2 sensors are so often seized, it may be required to get the engine good and hot to help get it to unscrew. It's can be a painful bitch to work in that area when the engine is hot so be careful.
Nope, just carry a gas can. Every Jeep I've seen when the needle just leaves the white paint on the letter E to the left it is empty. So if you can see black between the E and the needle you are on fumes, totally out of gas.Hahaha!! Yep, that's about how mine works, it's a 99. Wonder if it would hurt anything to run out totally one day, just to mark the display where true E is?
Awesome post.Those special O2 sockets with the slot milled into them for the O2 wiring are used to install a new O2 sensor, not remove the old one. If your existing O2 sensor is typical it is seized in the header and that slot cut into the side of the O2 socket can cause the socket to spread open and slip/spin on the sensor when enough pressure to remove the sensor is applied.
To remove the O2 sensor use a standard 7/8 deep socket or, depending on which one it is, a box-end wrench. Cut the wires off from the old O2 sensor so the standard deep 7/8" socket will fit over it. And because O2 sensors are so often seized, it may be required to get the engine good and hot to help get it to unscrew. It's can be a painful bitch to work in that area when the engine is hot so be careful.
Well I'm late in the discussion. But, I have the same problem that DR7 had.
All good with the cats, new O2 sensors, oil change, new spark plugs and doing the same mileage 150-160. 8 mpg, and yes I did correctly. No codes in the pcm.
I have done everything that is in the topic. The only thing I didn't change yet is the IAT sensor.
Hope somedoby can help me![]()
Welcome!
What method are you using to calculate? What is your tire size? Do you have a non-stock speedo gear installed? Does your exhaust smell rich after warmup?
If you complete your profile's vehicle details, it can be helpful when you ask questions of the group.
You have larger than stock tires (the SE came with P215/75R15 which is 27-28" diameter) with the stock speedometer gear, which causes your trip meter to be off.
I'd recommend starting over with your calculation.
You should be somewhere between 14.7 (city and 12.4 (highway) L/100km for the SE.
- Gas up the tank to full (it's helpful to stop filling the same way each time so you can compare results. I stop at first click.) and reset the trip meter.
- Drive until you're almost empty.
- During gas up:
- Multiply your trip meter reading by 0.1185 (because your tires are ~11.85% larger diameter than stock)
- Add this value to the trip meter reading for your corrected kilometers driven.
- Take note of the exact liters required to fill tank.
- Divide the corrected kilometers driven by liters to full and report back your result.