Weird second to third gear shifting on 32RH transmission

[DevinStewart]

Hey yall, looking for a little help. Got a 4.0 with the 1997 32rh, runs great, just got it on the road this last month. I am having a slight transmission problem though, 1-2 shift feels great but happens a little early. 2-3 shift though happens way too early, basically immediately after the 1-2 shift and doesn’t feel nearly as sharp, almost like a bit of a slip. If I try to push it, it will shift to second around 3000 rpm’s but still almost immediately shift to third. Don’t really know what is the problem. For a little background, I’ve done all work on this jeep myself. Rebuilt the entire trans with a JEGS high performance kit and replaced pump and torque converter aswell. I also completely disassembled the valve body and cleaned all internals. I’ve adjusted the tv cable a few times and doesn’t seem to help me much on the shifts. I am running 35s with 4.88 for reference. I would love any knowledge you might have, I’m only 18 so I don’t have much experience with super technical problems like this. Thanks.

 

[hear]

That sure sounds like a TV cable adjustment issue. My shift points moved after I did my rebuild, it shifts into 2nd too early now and I've not been able to adjust the TV cable to make it hold first longer. But it's not anywhere near as quick as what you're describing. It's just early, but still very much driveable. If I get on the gas really good it will hold each gear for what feels like the right amount. I didn't do all the pressure tests, but I do wonder if I need to adjust the line pressure screw on the valve body as a result of new parts etc. I KNOW I didn't move that screw.

Did you verify the clutch pack clearances when you re-assembled?

 

[DevinStewart]

Yes I did verify the clearances when stacking the clutches, I was fairly happy with it at the time but perhaps I was off a tad on the second gear stack up? And yes I did not touch the line pressure screw either, everything I read said to ignore it, I wonder if that could cause this effect. The only other thing I can say is that my tv cable doesn’t seem to make much of a difference, whether loose or tight, still the shift is early.

 

[hear]

Yes I did verify the clearances when stacking the clutches, I was fairly happy with it at the time but perhaps I was off a tad on the second gear stack up? And yes I did not touch the line pressure screw either, everything I read said to ignore it, I wonder if that could cause this effect. The only other thing I can say is that my tv cable doesn’t seem to make much of a difference, whether loose or tight, still the shift is early.

One test I read was to do a WOT test. From a stop, just go full throttle and check where the shift points are. On my rebuilt 97 it forces the shift around 5k RPM give or take. If the TV cable isn't connected (like mine initially wasn't) it should still shift quickly since the transmission only knows about the throttle position through the TV cable.

Did you go through the FSM adjustment process?

 

[DevinStewart]

One test I read was to do a WOT test. From a stop, just go full throttle and check where the shift points are. On my rebuilt 97 it forces the shift around 5k RPM give or take. If the TV cable isn't connected (like mine initially wasn't) it should still shift quickly since the transmission only knows about the throttle position through the TV cable.

Did you go through the FSM adjustment process?

Okay I just did the wide open test and 1st gear shifts at 3000 rpm then rpm’s go down to little over 2000, pickup to 4000 quickly as I feel second gear isn’t engaging much. Then shifts to third and rpms go down to around 2000. Feels super off in second, almost like it’s not doing anything.

 

[hear]

2nd gear is controlled by that intermediate band. Are you certain that band adjustment it correct?

 

[hear]

If the band isn't able to hold that drum, what you'll see is that it will stay in first but rev super high, and then eventually it will release the intermediate band (which wasn't holding anything anyway) and complete the shift to 3rd. I lost all the friction material off my band so it was just the bare metal band trying to hold the drum, which it couldn't so it effectively stayed in 1st. And then my drum was scored to high heaven so I had to have it resurfaced at a machine shop.

 

[DevinStewart]

If the band isn't able to hold that drum, what you'll see is that it will stay in first but rev super high, and then eventually it will release the intermediate band (which wasn't holding anything anyway) and complete the shift to 3rd. I lost all the friction material off my band so it was just the bare metal band trying to hold the drum, which it couldn't so it effectively stayed in 1st. And then my drum was scored to high heaven so I had to have it resurfaced at a machine shop.

That does sound very similar to what I’m experiencing, the shift to “second” doesn’t give me any acceleration and just revs the engine. It is the front band correct? With the adjustment screw on the outside right behind the bell? I replaced this front band when I did the rebuild and I just adjusted the screw again the other day, I torqued it to 72in pounds with 2 and 1/4 turns backed off. Maybe I should try to tighten a little more? Or perhaps it is something with that square bracket that holds the band in place? Doesn’t sound likely but your diagnosis sounds very similar to what it feels like.

 

[hear]

Are you sure you have the servo piston in there correctly, and the "apply lever" in there correctly? I remember watching one dude do a 32RH overhaul and his band didn't really have a notch for the bar to line up with. Mine had a notch....I think I have a video of that section, brb.

 

[hear]

Ok i was partially mistaken. The variation I saw elsewhere was on the adjustment screw. But maybe verify that yours is set up correctly?

 

[DevinStewart]

Ok i was partially mistaken. The variation I saw elsewhere was on the adjustment screw. But maybe verify that yours is set up correctly?

I actually watched this guys entire series step by step when rebuilding the trans. My band did not have a notch, my stock one did and wasn’t in bad shape but I replaced it anyways. I thought that that notch was solely for the ease of install? I suppose the best next step for me is to just drop the pan and inspect the piston, compress it and make sure there’s no wear I didn’t notice before? Maybe even shoot some compressed air in the valve body holes to see if it is working properly? Is there any upgraded pistons that I could look into installing? If I’m not mistaken I should be able to replace the entire piston from under the jeep, will be harder then the first time on the bench, but doable. Maybe it’s just a little more worn out then I was able to notice. From your explanation it definitely sounds like either my band or piston is not working properly.

 

[DevinStewart]

I actually watched this guys entire series step by step when rebuilding the trans. My band did not have a notch, my stock one did and wasn’t in bad shape but I replaced it anyways. I thought that that notch was solely for the ease of install? I suppose the best next step for me is to just drop the pan and inspect the piston, compress it and make sure there’s no wear I didn’t notice before? Maybe even shoot some compressed air in the valve body holes to see if it is working properly? Is there any upgraded pistons that I could look into installing? If I’m not mistaken I should be able to replace the entire piston from under the jeep, will be harder then the first time on the bench, but doable. Maybe it’s just a little more worn out then I was able to notice. From your explanation it definitely sounds like either my band or piston is not working properly.

I will say that when I rebuilt the trans it went in and out a couple times as every time I would try it I burned up the oil pump. I ended up figuring out why, there was still a spacer/bearing in the hole of the flex plate. Apparently it’s used on manuals but needs to be taken out for autos and I suppose when the guy I bought it from engine swapped he forgot to take it out. Anyways, caused a fair amount of aluminum paste to go into the oil as whenever I would try to run it it created too much friction on the inside of the oil pump. Once I figured it out though I had to repeat steps, flushing the system, replacing the torque converter, and taking apart and cleaning the valve body. I have no idea what passage gets the oil from the pump in what order, but perhaps a lot of the pumps aluminum waste went behind the servo piston and is gumming it up. I’ll tear into it tomorrow after school and hopefully I see something, otherwise I’ll just have to deal with it, it’s still quite driveable.

 

[CMBD]

You can air check everything with the valve body removed. I love that style of transmission

 

[hear]

I actually watched this guys entire series step by step when rebuilding the trans.

Don’t say anything bad about him, I hear he spends time on this forum.

 

[DevinStewart]

You can air check everything with the valve body removed. I love that style of transmission

I will admit it is very handy to be able to test it manually, especially with the fact that my first transmission rebuild is on an automatic! By any chance do you know what hole to air check for the servo piston?

 

[hear]

You might be able to take that servo piston out, but the valve body is going to be in the way of everything else.

 

[hear]

I will admit it is very handy to be able to test it manually, especially with the fact that my first transmission rebuild is on an automatic! By any chance do you know what hole to air check for the servo piston?

Just trial and error…and document it and report back.

 

[DevinStewart]

Don’t say anything bad about him, I hear he spends time on this forum.

I couldn’t even if I wanted to, only reason my trans is even put together right now!

 

[CMBD]

I will say that when I rebuilt the trans it went in and out a couple times as every time I would try it I burned up the oil pump. I ended up figuring out why, there was still a spacer/bearing in the hole of the flex plate. Apparently it’s used on manuals but needs to be taken out for autos and I suppose when the guy I bought it from engine swapped he forgot to take it out. Anyways, caused a fair amount of aluminum paste to go into the oil as whenever I would try to run it it created too much friction on the inside of the oil pump. Once I figured it out though I had to repeat steps, flushing the system, replacing the torque converter, and taking apart and cleaning the valve body. I have no idea what passage gets the oil from the pump in what order, but perhaps a lot of the pumps aluminum waste went behind the servo piston and is gumming it up. I’ll tear into it tomorrow after school and hopefully I see something, otherwise I’ll just have to deal with it, it’s still quite driveable.

Yea, when you bolt the trans to the engine there should be a small space between the mating surface on the converter attachment points and the flex plate. When there isn't is what you had happen and the converter hub eats the pump and makes a mess.

If the converter has studs they should wiggle in the flex plate holes. And if it has bolts you should be able to spin the converter with the trans bolted up.

 

[hear]

I couldn’t even if I wanted to, only reason my trans is even put together right now!

Say it louder, his wife needs to know he wasn't just out there wasting his time.