Mission accomplished! Hopefully this helps you!

[LittleGiant]

Ever have a knocking noise that you chased and chased and basically lost your mind? I have!

I do feel somewhat stupid because there were things I should have done as actual testing instead of just throwing money at the potential problem, but I did find a few other things that needed to addressed along the way.

What I replaced:
All 3 tie rod ends
Track bar
Upper/lower ball joints
L/R Axle u joints
Upper steering shaft
Lower steering shaft
Steering gearbox
Wheel hub assembly
Front L/R sway bar links
Front sway bar bushings
Rear sway bar bushings
Rear L/R sway bar links

I did need new rear sway bar bushings, I could push the bar up and down with ease. Also found 2 tie rod ends that were shot. After going through 2 sets of front sway bar links I was convinced it was them and after disconnecting the sway bar links and not having any noise. (Someone on here told me to do that. - thank you for that)

After reading a lot about sway bar links I found about the importance of sway bar angles. I feel dumb for not being able to pinpoint it earlier but it’s part of the learning process I suppose.

I have a 2 inch suspension lift. JKS to the rescue! I bought the ones for 2.6 - 6 inch lift, installed them and drove around. Still had a tiny knock and I saw I still was below 10 degrees so I raised them to a little over 12 and it was magic. Not only is the knocking gone, it handles better.

 

[Vtx531]

How would swaybar links know the difference between a 0" body lift or a 20" body lift?

 

[TheBoogieman]

Ever have a knocking noise that you chased and chased and basically lost your mind
After reading a lot about sway bar links I found about the importance of sway bar angles. I feel dumb for not being able to pinpoint it earlier but it’s part of the learning process I suppose.

I have toggle a 2 inch body lift (I bought it that way) so I knew I needed longer links. JKS to the rescue! I bought the ones for 2.6 - 6 inch lift, installed them and drove around. Still had a tiny knock and I saw I still was below 10 degrees so I raised them to a little over 12 and it was magic. Not only is the knocking gone, it handles better.

Now you need new stock length sway bar end links.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

I have toggle a 2 inch body lift (I bought it that way) so I knew I needed longer links.

Those two words are stopping me from understanding this sentence.

 

[LittleGiant]

How would swaybar links know the difference between a 0" body lift or a 20" body lift?

How would swaybar links know the difference between a 0" body lift or a 20" body lift?

If the sway bar is below parallel the pressure of it getting pushed up causes the links to push upwards and forward into the bushings and puts added stress on the links because of the steep angle.

If the bar is above parallel the links simple push straight up and don’t try to push the bar forward.

 

[LittleGiant]

Now you need new stock length sway bar end links.

Why?

 

[JustDandee]

Maybe a typo in the original post? Suspension vs body lift- Body lift has zero effect on suspension where the suspension lift would alter factory geometry.

 

[LittleGiant]

Maybe a typo in the original post? Suspension vs body lift- Body lift has zero effect on suspension where the suspension lift would alter factory geometry.

Not a typo, I’m still somewhat new to leaning about lifts.

All I know is this, the sway bar was a solid 2-3 inches below parallel and I had knocking like crazy. Disconnected it and the locking went away. Installed JKS quick disconnects for a 2.5-6 inch lift and raised it to about 17 degrees above parallel and the noise is gone and handles better over bumps.

 

[JustDandee]

Not a typo, I’m still somewhat new to leaning about lifts.

All I know is this, the sway bar was a solid 2-3 inches below parallel and I had knocking like crazy. Disconnected it and the locking went away. Installed JKS quick disconnects for a 2.5-6 inch lift and raised it to about 17 degrees above parallel and the noise is gone and handles better over bumps.

Maybe the previous owner did some parts swapping? put a lift on/took it off type thing? Glad to hear you got rid of the annoying noise but just a body lift should not have been the cause of your noise… if your tracking with the logic the stock geometry does not change with a body lift.

 

[LittleGiant]

Maybe the previous owner did some parts swapping? put a lift on/took it off type thing? Glad to hear you got rid of the annoying noise but just a body lift should not have been the cause of your noise… if your tracking with the logic the stock geometry does not change with a body lift.

Makes total sense. Silly question, all I need to do it look at the front and rear suspension to determine a lift right?

Because it had basic shocks and from what I can tell, stock could as well. I don’t see anything fancy going on underneath at all.

I’m thinking I should take some pictures and show you guys and maybe you can see something I’m not.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Makes total sense. Silly question, all I need to do it look at the front and rear suspension to determine a lift right?

Because it had basic shocks and from what I can tell, stock could as well. I don’t see anything fancy going on underneath at all.

I’m thinking I should take some pictures and show you guys and maybe you can see something I’m not.

Measure the springs as it sits. 12" front and 8" rear are stock lengths.

 

[LittleGiant]

The shock is 12, but 14 to the top. 2 inch socket in there on the top it looks like

 

[DaveC]

The shock is 12, but 14 to the top. 2 inch socket in there on the top it looks like

View attachment 528545

View attachment 528546

View attachment 528547

You have a 2" spacer lift in fronta and I'd bet a similar sized one above the rear springs. Measure the same in the rear; as mentioned above, 8" is stock spring length there.

 

[LittleGiant]

You have a 2" spacer lift in fronta and I'd bet a similar sized one above the rear springs. Measure the same in the rear; as mentioned above, 8" is stock spring length there.

I didn’t take a pic, but the back is the same, 2 inch spacer lift.

 

[LittleGiant]

You have a 2" spacer lift in fronta and I'd bet a similar sized one above the rear springs. Measure the same in the rear; as mentioned above, 8" is stock spring length there.

And the noise is back. About to give up.

 

[OldBuzzard]

I don't see control arms in your list. How are those bushings?

 

[LittleGiant]

I don't see control arms in your list. How are those bushings?

I recently (1 month ago) replaced front and rear, upper and lower control arms. The knock/clunk was there before and still is

 

[JustDandee]

I recently (1 month ago) replaced front and rear, upper and lower control arms. The knock/clunk was there before and still is

Notice any holes that were oblong? Would allow movement - thinking track bar maybe

 

[DaveC]

You said you replaced a track bar; just one? How are the ends on the other one?

Have you gone through and checked torque on all the stuff you changed now that it's been driven 'post new parts'? Not uncommon for things to settle in and need to be retorqued after XX miles.

How about the shocks; have you checked to make sure they're not loose and the bushings are good?

 

[Rickyd]

You should edit your above post again. You have a 2" suspension lift. Not body lift.

Tj's have 20 suspension connection points not counting the swaybars. Check them all with a prybar and retorque the bolts. Look for evidence of bolt heads and nuts moving. Look for evidence of the track bars and steering hitting other parts. Rear trackbar hitting the gas tank is common.