Shifter banging bezel

JMT

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After my BL the shifter moved ever so closer to the shifter bezel. I can feel it hit when going into 2 and R. One idea was to move the console back 1/2”, but I don’t see how to do that on the 2005. Another idea was to bend the shifter forward way down low. That would be quite a job! Any other ideas? Or how to bend it?
 
The simple solution is to move the entire drivetrain forward a half inch or so.



















:b1::risas3:

You can probably just trim the bezel a bit. I believe I read the rubber boot can cause issues after a bl too, if you have one that is. The solution is the leather style.
 
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The simple solution is to move the entire drivetrain forward a half inch or so.



















:b1::risas3:

You can probably just trim the bezel a bit. I believe I read the rubber boot can cause issues after a bl too, if you have one that is. The solution is the leather style.
I was like, WTH? :confused: :)

I have the leather style.
 
I have a DIY leather style boot, and have had no issues with my shifter. I was actually expecting it, but so far, so good. You might pull the boot, and see what is actually hitting. Could just be the difference between the 6 speed and 5 speed as well.
 
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I have a DIY leather style boot, and have had no issues with my shifter. I was actually expecting it, but so far, so good. You might pull the boot, and see what is actually hitting. Could just be the difference between the 6 speed and 5 speed as well.
Yeah, I pulled it a couple weeks ago when I had the entire interior apart down to the tub. I was planning to move the console back 1/2”. But when I got there I realized that was not possible in the 2005 models. So I did a search on the topic and found that other people would remove the shifter and bend it forewarn real low. I’ll have to find somebody who has a giant vice and maybe add some heat to get it to bend. Don’t want to go too far or the shifting knob may hit the dash or be uncomfortably close.

I can get in the even gears and R, it is just close enough to bump when you shift into the gear
 
Why, what's stopping it? Is there a difference in consoles mounting between years?
There actually is. The 05-06 front portion has the rectangular hole shifted forward a bit from the others. The single mounting screw tab is also shifted back about an inch to line up over the bracket on the floor plate which is also shifted back.

I'm doing a swap right now and have the opposite problem. Due to the expense of the later shifter bezel, boot, and cover plate that snaps into the console, we swapped to the earlier front half but the rectangular hole is almost too far back for the shifter to work. He is going to need a leather shifter boot that does not sag down inside the hole or the shifter will hit the edge of the bezel.

This rig however, is almost a cobbled together mess.
05
NV 3550 with relocated CPS hole
NSG 370 Flywheel
NV 3550 clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing
03 down front half center console
05 floor plate
Harness from 05 manual (had to add a wire to get it to start)
 
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Why, what's stopping it? Is there a difference in consoles mounting between years?
Well, I don't know if there's a difference in consoles. What I did was take everything out of the Jeep down to the tub to do a deep clean (I'd gone to the beach a few days before). My intent was to move the console back in the process. But when I got in there the console is divided in two parts, as you know, with two mounting points for the front part; one in the cup holder and one in the rear passenger corner of the shifter bezel, under the boot (and, of course, you've the two rear bolts to deal with in the rear cupholders if you move the front back). Three of these bolts go into the tub, so you'd have to use a tap and die to move those three. The one in the shifter bezel is a raised mount connecting to another piece that bolts onto the tub that probably has 12-16 bolts into the tub. I didn't see any way to modify that mount without drilling a ton of new holes in the tub to move it back. Further, 1/2" would not be sufficient distance to make new holes in the tub IMHO. Anyway, if you've done it and can tell me how or give me some insight, I'm all ears. What I did at the time was searched on another unnamed forum that happens to use the cool 'Jeep' name but they're not as cool as us. There, everyone was bending the shifter forward in order to avoid hitting the bezel. These are all required at some point in the BL, I'd imagine if you go over 1.25" you are going to have problems. I'll post a pic in a minute. The red shows the bolt that I can't figure out how you could re-locate without drilling several new holes into the tub where shown in blue.
1542203A-30EF-4F6B-87B3-A97C1EDECB9C.webp
 
There actually is. The 05-06 front portion has the rectangular hole shifted forward a bit from the others. The single mounting screw tab is also shifted back about an inch to line up over the bracket on the floor plate which is also shifted back.

I'm doing a swap right now and have the opposite problem. Due to the expense of the later shifter bezel, boot, and cover plate that snaps into the console, we swapped to the earlier front half but the rectangular hole is almost too far back for the shifter to work. He is going to need a leather shifter boot that does not sag down inside the hole or the shifter will hit the edge of the bezel.

This rig however, is almost a cobbled together mess.
05
NV 3550 with relocated CPS hole
NSG 370 Flywheel
NV 3550 clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing
03 down front half center console
05 floor plate
Harness from 05 manual (had to add a wire to get it to start)

That's some good info.
 
So...Instead of moving the bolts...can you slot the holes in the console and move the console back without moving the holes in the tub? A half inch isn't much...the washer head screws will probably still cover most of the hole. The one screw that is on the extended bracket on the pass side...that will be the tough one. IIRC its recessed a bit, so you may have to remove more material.
 
So...Instead of moving the bolts...can you slot the holes in the console and move the console back without moving the holes in the tub? A half inch isn't much...the washer head screws will probably still cover most of the hole. The one screw that is on the extended bracket on the pass side...that will be the tough one. IIRC its recessed a bit, so you may have to remove more material.
The You could do that with the three in the cup holders, I think. The one in the front seat cup holder passes through both parts of the console, so you might miss the leading edge of the rear console. But the big one that's the problem is the one you mentioned. The pic of the situation below shows why, the console has a tab that the bolt passes through and connects to a separate plastic piece that is bolted to the tub below.
A91C71ED-E4AD-4594-BCC0-8385FB960E4C.webp

240F6AD5-5151-4B99-96DF-A3DD80700727.webp

Also, a couple of pics of my clearances in second and R with the leather boot on. It's right on it almost.
41A6D036-32EE-45D9-A095-503B2952BDC0.webp
 
Get a piece of plastic, trim to fit, and epoxy it to that tab. Drill a new hole in the new plastic, viola!
That may actually work. Great idea!
 
Will a TT move the shifter back forward?
No but it'll move the section of the shifter that comes up through the bezel forward. Not the cheapest route.

I had the same thing when I had a TC drop prior to SYE and my cheap fix was to leave the console unbolted so it'd be able to slide back and forth.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
No but it'll move the section of the shifter that comes up through the bezel forward. Not the cheapest route.

I had the same thing when I had a TC drop prior to SYE and my cheap fix was to leave the console unbolted so it'd be able to slide back and forth.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
TT is on the list. Probably the last thing I will do along with the under armor. Getting close, only two more biggies, but 5 grand to do them! LOL