Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms With OEM Lowers

IPerkWVU

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Ok - Here is the situation, I run a OME 2.5 SL, 1.25" BL and 1"MML with stock control arms.

I'm my evaluating tummy tuck build parts list, and the overall budget for the build. Currently the parts list only includes adjustable rear upper control arms, not a full set. When using the 6 OEM control arms how important does the quality of adjustable rear uppers need to be?

Would JJs provide me enough benefit to justify double the cost of other available sets when the rest of the arms are OEM? I understand buy once cry once mentality but honestly if I go the route of all adjustable arms in the future I'd rather purchase as a package down the road and save $150 now.
 
Watching the responses on this. I'm trying to decide to save money and do everything at once, or do the tuck, and replace control arms every piece meal every couple of months...
 
I wouldn't bother buying ANY adjustable upper arms unless they were double adjustable, that's what I would be paying attention to first and foremost. If they aren't double adjustable, they are garbage in my opinion.

As for the upper arms, do you really need Johnny Joints? Are you planning to really wheel it and articulate the suspension to it's max? Or are you mostly just doing trails and exploring with it?
 
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To help with both of your decision processes, remove the current control arms and check their condition. Remove one at a time BTW. It's easy to see if a bushing is torn or malformed. If it's difficult to remove an arm, and/or you need to use creative thinking to reattach, that means it is probably binding with the companion arm. Belly-up or not, inexpensive or costly, it's worthwhile to change worn or binding arms now.

I agree with a post made earlier that didn't survive the site update. Spend the money and get double adjustable upper control arms. I like the adjuster on Synergy control arms, it's super easy. The bushings are good too.
 
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Not saying you wouldn't need but why buy adjustable arms for just a 2.5 lift

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I wouldn't bother buying ANY adjustable upper arms unless they were double adjustable, that's what I would be paying attention to first and foremost. If they aren't double adjustable, they are garbage in my opinion.

As for the upper arms, do you really need Johnny Joints? Are you planning to really wheel it and articulate the suspension to it's max? Or are you mostly just doing trails and exploring with it?

@bobthetj03 your post and my reply didn't survive. My habits are mostly Midwest trails, small to medium rock gardens etc. At this time I don't plan to buy a whole set of adjustable arms as the OEM did just fine for me this past year. The jeep also had 135k with a bit of rust so I try to be pragmatic on the upgrades as this one has a bit shorter life ahead of it.

In combination with 6 OEM arms, will you get the benefit of the JJs for the price you pay?

My real thought is this....Crown and Core4x4 sell versions that run about $150, both single adjustable non JJ arms.

Yes it requires more work but it is just one compont of the 'cheap' version of the tummy tuck options I'm looking at which also includes UCF Original extra clearance skids, cable shifter, and TW CV driveshaft.

Savvy everything is about 43% more, their quality is there and don't think their stuff is over priced, it's just more expensive.

Not saying you wouldn't need but why buy adjustable arms for just a 2.5 lift

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Need adjustable arms to set the pinion angle after the TT.
 
@bobthetj03 At this time I don't plan to buy a whole set of adjustable arms as the OEM did just fine for me this past year. The jeep also had 135k with a bit of rust so I try to be pragmatic on the upgrades as this one has a bit shorter life ahead of it.

I agree with your thinking, it’s so easy to ignore practicality when the TJ is involved. When I was dealing with the pinion angle I opted for the single set of rear uppers & went with Savvy. The double adjustable does make life easy when you’re trying to dial that angle in but other than that I can’t tell the difference, maybe if I had the entire set of 8 with JJs I could…

At the time I assumed I’d eventually swap in the rest of the set bit by bit as all of my stock arms needed to be replaced (bushings were beat), but over time I realized that stock performed beautifully for my purposes so about a year later I pulled them out & replaced with OEM, I think all 6 ran me around $150 or so from Rock Auto (Moog). Maybe I missing some increased level of performance as compared to what I’d have with Savvy’s JJs all around, I don’t know but more importantly I don’t care, I’m not & never will be in the upper echelons of the wheeling crowd, just trying to have some fun on the weekends…
 
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I wouldn't bother buying ANY adjustable upper arms unless they were double adjustable, that's what I would be paying attention to first and foremost. If they aren't double adjustable, they are garbage in my opinion.

As for the upper arms, do you really need Johnny Joints? Are you planning to really wheel it and articulate the suspension to it's max? Or are you mostly just doing trails and exploring with it?

Chris, I'm curious why anything other than double adjustable you think is not worth it? Not trying to argue, I'm just curious.... I have a full set of single adjustable and other than the ease at which to adjust the double arms I don't see any difference in function but I could be missing something?
 
Chris, I'm curious why anything other than double adjustable you think is not worth it? Not trying to argue, I'm just curious.... I have a full set of single adjustable and other than the ease at which to adjust the double arms I don't see any difference in function but I could be missing something?
My thought is you have a greater degree of adjustability when dialing in your axle since your not limited to "one turn of the head" other than that, if you have forged JJs on both ends the flex would be the same.
 
If your plans are to keep using the OEM arms I will suggest to look for an used set of adjustable arms, plenty around the Face, Craig, Ebay market and in good conditions. Core 4 x 4 Tier 1 will suite your project and will combine with the OEM at the same time.

Answering your Post #6 question;
The benefit using the JJ is flex and since the arms will be combined with the OEM style clevite bushings this benefit will be limited or not noticed.

Trust me, it is any justification for use double adjustable arms unless you want to save set up time that after been dealing with the UCF ultra clearance skid adjust your pinion angle will be a walk on the park.

One thing I like to mention; re think the use of the UCF ultra clearance skid. TJ's does not require a close to flat belly to get rid of the shovel effect plus while doing a TT the drive shaft bind at full flex must be observed not to happen.

I can tell you that this Ultra clearance system is a real pain to work with.

BTW, Its nothing wrong to save 43% as long your goal are met at the end of the project.
 
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If your plans are to keep using the OEM arms I will suggest to look for an used set of adjustable arms, plenty around the Face, Craig, Ebay market and in good conditions. Core 4 x 4 Tier 1 will suite your project and will combine with the OEM at the same time.

Answering your Post #6 question;
The benefit using the JJ is flex and since the arms will be combined with the OEM style clevite bushings this benefit will be limited or not noticed.

Trust me, it is any justification for use double adjustable arms unless you want to save set up time that after been dealing with the UCF ultra clearance skid adjust your pinion angle will be a walk on the park.

One thing I like to mention; re think the use of the UCF ultra clearance skid. TJ's does not require a close to flat belly to get rid of the shovel effect plus while doing a TT the drive shaft bind at full flex must be observed not to happen.

I can tell you that this Ultra clearance system is a real pain to work with.

BTW, Its nothing wrong to save 43% as long your goal are met at the end of the project.
Looking at the Original extra clearance, comes with about a 2" drop, hoping it will make the install a bit easier with my 241 transfer case
 
My thought is you have a greater degree of adjustability when dialing in your axle since your not limited to "one turn of the head" other than that, if you have forged JJs on both ends the flex would be the same.

The advantage is speed as you no have to removed the arm completely every time need to adjust. When you have to dial in ten rigs in one day it will make the difference but when we are working on our rig few extra minutes will not matter.
 
Looking at the Original extra clearance, comes with about a 2" drop, hoping it will make the install a bit easier with my 241 transfer case

I think it will be.
UCF accounts too much on tunnel massage, plate trimming and 1.25 BML when design this skids, not sure if the TJ the use to design this skid has all of that massage and BML done at the design time. I have multiple conversations with them installing mine that lead me to think this.
I bet the product has been updated since then so chances are that you no have that many issues as i do.
 
Chris, I'm curious why anything other than double adjustable you think is not worth it? Not trying to argue, I'm just curious.... I have a full set of single adjustable and other than the ease at which to adjust the double arms I don't see any difference in function but I could be missing something?

Try adjusting the rear pinion angle without double adjustable upper arms. It's a royal pain in the ass. Even changing the angle by 1 degree requires removing the arm, then reattaching it. With double adjustable uppers, you don't need to do that.
 
The problem I see with Core 4x4 Tier 1's is rigidity. Stock arms are designed to have some flex beyond what the Clevite bushings can provide. Putting too solid of an arm on could risk ripping arm mounts off the frame. Add some rust to that equation makes the scenario even worse.
Double adjustables are just a time saving/labor saving convenience for the most part. If you feel you can dial the pinion angle in on one or two adjustments and leave it, then single adjustable will work for you. I know a guy on here that is lowering his TJ back down and putting stock arms back on. He will be selling his adjustables, so I'll check for you.
 
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I'd wait and save money....then buy once! The double adjustable ones were very nice to dial in.

Also I didn't experience anything I couldn't readily deal with regarding the UCF ultra clearance skid. And that was mainly the Lo Pro mount alignment. I'm an LJ though.

I did get lucky and snagged a set of MC double threaded ones from @Chris
(Just follow him!)
 
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Try adjusting the rear pinion angle without double adjustable upper arms. It's a royal pain in the ass. Even changing the angle by 1 degree requires removing the arm, then reattaching it. With double adjustable uppers, you don't need to do that.

Thank you for the reply. It was maybe a bit of a pain when I did mine (single adjustable) and I have no plans on doing it again but I can see your point if adjustment was needed regularly.
 
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I'd wait and save money....then buy once! The double adjustable ones were very nice to dial in.

Also I didn't experience anything I couldn't readily deal with regarding the UCF ultra clearance skid. And that was mainly the Lo Pro mount alignment. I'm an LJ though.

I did get lucky and snagged a set of MC double threaded ones from @Chris
(Just follow him!)

LJ Manual or Auto?