...well, until I have the next hair brained idea. What I've done so far has worked, but I think this is the last change I'm going to make, then just accept the audio system for what it is, and what you can do in a loud Jeep. I already have a very good sounding system in my car.
I just saw this Kicker amp the other day, and it does everything I want it to. It's perfect for my system. It can run front and rear speakers, or be use to bi-amp the front. On top of that, when used to bi-amp the front, it'll set the crossover to 3.2khz for tweeters, or 320hz if using a coaxial or full range type of speaker, and that 320hz option will work perfectly for my Tang Band mini modules, as I'm limited to 200hz as a crossover. That works, but 320hz is better. So I'll be using it in bi-amp mode for the Dayton woofers in the dash and TB modules on the A-pillars.
It has auto eq and time alignment with the included mic, it has a compression option, and that is great for top down driving when you can't always tell how much distortion is going on, so that would act as a limiter to not completely over drive any speakers. Power wise, it's rated at 45w x 4, so it should be about the same as my Kenwood's 50w x 4. It's stupid small, even smaller than my small Kenwood.
https://www.kicker.com/key-smart-amplifier
I think I'll re-purpose the Kenwood amp and run it bridged as a 2 channel amp on the headunits rear channels, and run these Peerless woofers in the sound bar from 20-200hz. I don't like mid and high frequencies coming from the sound bar, and always have it faded heavily towards the front anyway, so I'd rather have more bass/midbass. Those Peerless woofers are designed for small enclosures, and I'm sure the sound bars internal volume isn't all that much. Maybe .1 cubic feet per speaker at the most.
https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-sls-p830945-5-1-4-paper-cone-woofer-4-ohm--264-1604
And I'll still run my powered sub on the tailgate...for now.
Most will probably say "why bother?", it's just a hobby of mine, and I like challenges sometimes.
I just saw this Kicker amp the other day, and it does everything I want it to. It's perfect for my system. It can run front and rear speakers, or be use to bi-amp the front. On top of that, when used to bi-amp the front, it'll set the crossover to 3.2khz for tweeters, or 320hz if using a coaxial or full range type of speaker, and that 320hz option will work perfectly for my Tang Band mini modules, as I'm limited to 200hz as a crossover. That works, but 320hz is better. So I'll be using it in bi-amp mode for the Dayton woofers in the dash and TB modules on the A-pillars.
It has auto eq and time alignment with the included mic, it has a compression option, and that is great for top down driving when you can't always tell how much distortion is going on, so that would act as a limiter to not completely over drive any speakers. Power wise, it's rated at 45w x 4, so it should be about the same as my Kenwood's 50w x 4. It's stupid small, even smaller than my small Kenwood.
https://www.kicker.com/key-smart-amplifier
I think I'll re-purpose the Kenwood amp and run it bridged as a 2 channel amp on the headunits rear channels, and run these Peerless woofers in the sound bar from 20-200hz. I don't like mid and high frequencies coming from the sound bar, and always have it faded heavily towards the front anyway, so I'd rather have more bass/midbass. Those Peerless woofers are designed for small enclosures, and I'm sure the sound bars internal volume isn't all that much. Maybe .1 cubic feet per speaker at the most.
https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-sls-p830945-5-1-4-paper-cone-woofer-4-ohm--264-1604
And I'll still run my powered sub on the tailgate...for now.
Most will probably say "why bother?", it's just a hobby of mine, and I like challenges sometimes.
Last edited:

![20180708_193310[1].webp 20180708_193310[1].webp](https://wranglertjforum.com/data/attachments/92/92933-745e9197284bec85e39a6a9b486cc74e.jpg?hash=qZrLKu1FHS)
