Using an air compressor to treat frame + other applications

Not_Invented_Here_

TJ Addict
Original poster
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
1,032
Location
Midwest
IMG_20191030_114912.jpg


I have a small, basic 3 gallon/100 psi air compressor that I'm not very well acquainted with using yet.

I want to treat my frame for the winter and had originally planned to use Fluid Film (now apparently called Woolwax?). Kellsport offers a $90 "pro" gun option with containers and multi direction spray wands. It's marketed as being for the application of FF. It looks alright and is well reviewed. I suspect I can achieve the same results without spending $90 though.

Might seem like a dumb question but couldn't I just buy an air hose and a basic spray gun and fill it's resevoir with FF or any other desired substance? Like I said earlier, haven't used it much so I don't even know what I need or could use. People mentioned spraying inside with bar & chain oil. My concern with FF is how viscous it is and that I may in fact need a special gun like the one I linked to spray it.

TL;DR - What could I purchase for this pictured air compressor to treat my frame if my goal is to use something like fluid film or oil?
 
Yeh the first one is their basic model and I saw several reviews saying pro was worth upgrade and without the hose, gun was fine but not as functional.

But yeah, cool, that's what I was wondering. As far as I can tell, it just has the attachment that does multi-direction spray, similar to Eastwood. I'm like surely that can't be unique. Other than than, I don't know that anything else differentiates it from the one you linked.
 
While what you have is an air compressor, it's for nail guns and such. You won't get enough CFM to spray with. it will spray for a short time until you run the tank out of air but the compressor won't keep up after the tank is empty. Just sayin!
 
While what you have is an air compressor, it's for nail guns and such. You won't get enough CFM to spray with. it will spray for a short time until you run the tank out of air but the compressor won't keep up after the tank is empty. Just sayin!

Thanks, I wasn't sure. Reviewers said they used compressors of comparable capacity 3-4 but I wondered if that would be a problem. I'll keep it in mind.
 
My last compressor was a 3 gallon Porter Cable and it couldn't keep up with much. I finally caught a new Porter Cable 25 gallon tank belt driven v-twin compressor on sale a few weeks ago and it's a whole new world.
 
I usually plug my drain holes that I drilled on the bottom of my frame and dump a gallon or two of used engine oil in the frame. I then take my air compressor wand (2' long, 45 degree tip) and blow through all of the access holes on the sides of the frame. This splashes oil all around the frame very thoroughly. I do this about twice a year and have seemingly stopped the light/moderate frame rust dead in its track.

I don't know if this would work with that small of an air compressor. My air compressor is 80 gallons at 120psi. It takes high pressure and several minutes of blowing to do a good job.

Pros: It's cheap - just reusing old motor oil. Used existing air compressor and wand.
Very effective

Cons: Very messy, takes a week before all the oil quits dripping, best to place cardboard under Jeep after your done.
 
I sprayed with fluid film using a standard oil spraying gun.It blobbed out. No matter what pressure I used. On the outside of the tub and frame I just used a 2" brush and then just brushed it around.They say a 5 mm ( .200" ) nozzle is the size to use.I have access holes in the frame and I am sure it will move around.I did it a year ago for the 1st time and the frame looks really still coated well.I don't drive it in the winter but after so much fab work on the frame I want to keep it black and wet with fluid film.I used the spray cans inside the frame with an extra plastic wand i got with my eastwood internal frame coating kit.It gives me 16 to 20" of extra reach.The spray cans do go along way.Eastwood wands for the internal frame coating kits fit right on.I just cut the brass nozzle off the end of the extension.
 
I sprayed with fluid film using a standard oil spraying gun.It blobbed out. No matter what pressure I used. On the outside of the tub and frame I just used a 2" brush and then just brushed it around.They say a 5 mm ( .200" ) nozzle is the size to use.I have access holes in the frame and I am sure it will move around.I did it a year ago for the 1st time and the frame looks really still coated well.I don't drive it in the winter but after so much fab work on the frame I want to keep it black and wet with fluid film.I used the spray cans inside the frame with an extra plastic wand i got with my eastwood internal frame coating kit.It gives me 16 to 20" of extra reach.The spray cans do go along way.Eastwood wands for the internal frame coating kits fit right on.I just cut the brass nozzle off the end of the extension.

Oh this is a good tip, I just so happen to have 4 cans of eastwood sitting in my garage and I'm pretty sure they came with the extension wands. I'd happily attach those to FF cans and do it the hard way if that works.
 
Look for a parts cleaning nozzle at Harbor freight. It's an air nozzle that has a hose attachment that you drop into whatever liquid you want to spray. The air passing through the nozzle pulls the liquid out of the can and mixs with the air, spraying it where ever you want it coated. They're cheap and they work.
 
I just so happen to have 4 cans of eastwood sitting in my garage and I'm pretty sure they came with the extension wands. I'd happily attach those to FF cans and do it the hard way if that works.

Double check the eastwood nozzles to make sure they fit other brands. My extra eastwood nozzles wouldn't fit any other spray cans I had.
 
I'll also add that the colder the FF is the harder it is to spray. I was spraying some earlier today when it was in the low 60s. I ended up setting the gallon on a homemade shelf with an electric heater under it and an upside down 5 gallon bucket over it to warm it up and thin it out. It sprayed much smoother.

IF you heat it up, keep an eye on it. I did this last year and melted a hole in the bottom of the plastic gallon can. Luckily I caught it early enough to keep from covering the electric heater with FF.

And FF is still FF, at least it still is here https://www.tptools.com/Spray-On-Undercoating.html
 
Might I suggest CorrosionX, it is a lot thinner and easier to spray. It will also migrate and penetrate so if you miss a spot it will wick its way into cracks and crevices on its own anyway. Mil Spec for saltwater environments too!
 
Might I suggest CorrosionX, it is a lot thinner and easier to spray. It will also migrate and penetrate so if you miss a spot it will wick its way into cracks and crevices on its own anyway. Mil Spec for saltwater environments too!

Good suggestion, never heard of it.

I'll also add that the colder the FF is the harder it is to spray. I was spraying some earlier today when it was in the low 60s. I ended up setting the gallon on a homemade shelf with an electric heater under it and an upside down 5 gallon bucket over it to warm it up and thin it out. It sprayed much smoother.

IF you heat it up, keep an eye on it. I did this last year and melted a hole in the bottom of the plastic gallon can. Luckily I caught it early enough to keep from covering the electric heater with FF.

And FF is still FF, at least it still is here https://www.tptools.com/Spray-On-Undercoating.html

Yeah the only place I've seen that name change is Amazon so who knows. On your linked page, I saw this (https://www.tptools.com/36-L-Flexible-Wand-Kit,9571.html?b=d*12715) and it looks like something that could be useful if you just want to rock aerosol type cans, especially that corrosion x stuff. Not sure how it would do with the thicker goo
 
For those of you that have applied fluid film, does it dry clear, opaque, yellow, etc? Basically, I am wondering what it looks like after application, can you see it?
 
It looks dark, but not black. And it keeps a wet surface. The Corosion X stuff I'm pretty sure is more of a Cosmoline type product that will be very difficult to get off. That is a + but also a -. If you are sure the area you are spraying is good and clean then it's ok, but if it is dirty or grimy it can seal the dirt inside. FF will wash off with soapy water fairly easily. If you use the plastic wand with the aerosol cans if you spiral some safety wire or something similar around the plastic wand tube it is much easier to slide into the frame or other tight space to be sure of good coverage. The first couple times I tried to slide the tube thru the frame holes it would want to catch on the inside and either stop and bend the extension or circle up inside and not just slide the 2' length inside.