Replacement nutserts for fender flares?

[Flygti]

Any recommendations on the best nutserts to replace the factory units? I'm just got my Lj back from paint and need to replace all the nutserts.

I've seen the Omix and Crown kits. Any of these two better than the other? Or am I better off finding other better quality ones?

Bonus pics of the new paint....

 

[zebra12]

@LJGreg recently did this:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/gregs-05-lj-build.13322/page-4#post-450070

 

[PCO6]

I just took my rear fender liners out so I could rust spray the wheel wells. While I was at it I took the flares off and reinstalled them using 1/4" SS hardware (nuts, bolts & washers). I did away with all of the nutserts and the black nylon nuts. I plan to do the front flares as well.

While doing the above I removed my Rubicon sill guards, drilled out all of the nutserts and used 5/16" SS hardware to reattach them. There are 6 per side on an LJ. The only 2 you can't access from the rear are 2nd and 4th ones working back from the front. I used a 1" hole saw to make access hole from the interior side. The holes make for good rustproofing access.

Unless you want to remain stock, I do away with as many nutserts as I can. They have a purpose but if you can access both sides or use a self tapper I prefer to use basic hardware.

 

[MountaineerTom]

I’ve used some Uxcell brand nutserts from Amazon when I installed Rubicon Rocker Guards and they worked well. They were the M6 size but if I recalll correctly, the flares are M5.

I also bought a Tacklife 14” nutsert setting tool and it was quick and easy to use, but it looks like it’s not available now on amazon. There are plenty others there though if you want to go that route. You can make your own though. Black Magic Brakes has instructions on how to make it on their website. I made one when I had to replace one of the bigger skid plate nutserts in the frame. Be sure to use grade 8 hardware as instructed. I tried grade 5 because that’s what I happen to have on hand and the hardware didn’t hold up.

 

[Goatman]

I would replace them with stainless nutserts. Options on Amazon. Put a small line of locktite red on the nutsert that contacts the hole to help add a chemical bond along with the mechanical bond of the nutsert. Be sure the hole edges have paint first. Let the paint dry at least 24-48 hrs before the install. And use a dab of antiseize when you put the bolt in.

 

[Flygti]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Opinions on Zinc plated vs Stainless?

 

[PCO6]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Opinions on Zinc plated vs Stainless?

I drive my Jeeps during the winter so for applications like this I use stainless steel hardware where ever I can.

 

[Hound Dog]

Man, that is one shiny pretty jeep! Looks good.

Go with stainless. Zinc coated will rust almost as fast as your frame.

 

[Goatman]

Always go with stainless when the option is available to you. Always. Be sure to put some antiseize on the threads to prevent falling the threads.

 

[PatMc]

I used zinc 1/4-20 nut serts from McMasterCarr.

FYI...the harbor freight nutsert tool that comes in their kit with the aluminum nut serts DOES NOT LIKE steel 1/4-20 nutserts....I broke mine, after I bent it about 10 times. Get a more substantial tool.

 

[Steve Rodgers]

Stainless is great, I use it whenever I can. One thing to think about is corrosion. Placing a noble metal in contact with a less noble metal and then getting it wet with salty water promotes corrosion. That being said, when you install nut inserts it would be good to put a layer of isolation between the stainless and the regular steel. A good coat of paint would help.

 

[Goatman]

Always put paint on any exposed metal. Especially in places you can't see if rust is starting.

 

[TDI Sahara]

I just replaced mine with aluminum 1/4"-20 nut certs. They work well.

 

[mrblaine]

I just replaced mine with aluminum 1/4"-20 nut certs. They work well.

You're a brave soul.

 

[TDI Sahara]

You're a brave soul.

Why is that, thread galling?

 

[mrblaine]

Why is that, thread galling?

They cross thread very easily and are typically only suited for very light duty applications.

 

[Fonz54]

I used the Crown nut-sert kit because I replaced the left front fender and the fender flares. Previous owner had cut the flares so I picked some up on CL. The Crown hardware was OK but the washers they give you are too small picked up some washers at Fastenal that were the right side.

 

[TDI Sahara]

They cross thread very easily and are typically only suited for very light duty applications.

I would consider this to be a light duty application. I would image there would be bigger issues if a fender flare was stressed until the 1/4" threads sheared out. Going to this slightly larger bolt size also reduces the chance of stripping due to the coarser threads.

 

[mrblaine]

I would consider this to be a light duty application. I would image there would be bigger issues if a fender flare was stressed until the 1/4" threads sheared out. Going to this slightly larger bolt size also reduces the chance of stripping due to the coarser threads.

You got it.

 

[Goatman]

Coarse threads hold less than fine threads.