Popping noise in steering column

[Daredevil96]

Greetings, I kept looking for forums that talk about a popping noise when turning the wheel. I’ve only found threads with popping noises past the firewall, track bar popping noises, and lower steering column popping noises.

My 2004 TJ is making a noise just below the actual steering wheel, in a place that’s not exposed. I took a look underneath right where your feet usually are and move the steering wheel and the popping noise is not coming from the lower part of the column near the firewall.

it’s right behind the air bag I suppose. What could it be? Is there any other way to diagnose it other than cranking the steering column? Or has anyone had a similar issue? I’m not familiar with steering columns.

FYI, it pops when I turn the wheel left and right, sometimes it doesn’t pop in the same position. For example if I turn the wheel 90 degrees it may pop twice but if I do it again, it may only pop once or 3 times therefore it is not very consistent but it does pop every single time.

I am attaching a video hopefully it works. I just bought this Jeep and and I am trying to fix this.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Do you have a tall body lift installed?

 

[Daredevil96]

Do you have a tall body lift installed?

I have absolutely no idea what this Jeep has. I just got it this week since my previous one got stolen.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

I have absolutely no idea what this Jeep has. I just got it this week since my previous one got stolen.

Pics pics pics!! We can pretty much tell you everything you’ve got.

 

[Daredevil96]

These are pictures that were posted by the person who sold it to me. Let me know if you need me to try to take another one from a specific angle. The Jeep is currently in the garage with another car so a horizontal pic would be impossible to get at the moment but I can take pics of the suspension and other parts to identify it.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Any pics of the underside or suspension would be helpful. I can tell you right off the bat you have 7” flares (2.5” extended over stock same as mine) doesn’t appear to have a body lift but need better pics. It has a suspension lift - need the spring measurement to tell you the lift height. Stock Rubi rocker guard with the added tube step. Light guards all around, stock front and rear bumpers with a flat mount winch plate. Aftermarket front tow hooks. Aftermarket hitch receiver. That sounds like a shot joint in the video you posted. Did you open the hood, have a buddy dry steer it like you were doing and ensure it’s not coming from the lower shaft? If you are correct then you need the upper shaft - I upgraded mine with this one which is super beefy.

 

[Daredevil96]

The front spring measures between 15- 16 inches. I can’t tell exactly. What is it a 3-4 in lift? I measured the side but it looks like the spring curves down a bit more in the rear area.

and for the steering popping question, I did it on my own. I stuck my head where all the wires are next to the pedals so my left ear was on the firewall side, and my right ear on the driver seat side. The popping noise came from my right side above me

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Looks like a 3.5” spring lift! You’re missing the bumpstops for the rear (empty cup in the top of the rear spring) those are cheap and easy to find online. Stock control arms and JKS sway bar disconnects. Looks like they just redrilled the hole in the front axle for the front track bar instead of getting an adjustable one (the right way to do it) but that’s not gonna hurt anything. No body lift @Jerry Bransford

 

[Daredevil96]

Forgot to mention, it also has some rancho shocks

Looks like a 3.5” spring lift! You’re missing the bumpstops for the rear (empty cup in the top of the rear spring) those are cheap and easy to find online. Stock control arms and JKS sway bar disconnects. Looks like they just redrilled the hole in the front axle for the front track bar instead of getting an adjustable one (the right way to do it) but that’s not gonna hurt anything. No body lift @Jerry Bransford

Forgot to mention, it also has some rancho RSS0 or R550 shocks

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Look like a good purchase - everything seems to be in good condition from what I can tell in the pictures besides the steering you talked about. Are there any other problems or things your notice?

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Forgot to mention, it also has some rancho shocks


Forgot to mention, it also has some rancho RSS0 or R550 shocks

Can you make out on the label if they are Rancho 5000x or 5000? I would remove those boots on the shocks - they do more harm than good.

 

[Daredevil96]

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Can you make out on the label if they are Rancho 5000x or 5000? I would remove those boots on the shocks - they do more harm than good.

They appear to be just the 5000.

min response to your other comment however,I also hear this what’s on the video. This is the clutch I am pressing on. I can hear the throw out bearing as well when it’s gone so I think that one is bad but I mean... the clutch is all right. It can last another 2-3 years I would say.

 

[Daredevil96]

Re-uploaded the video since I think the other one wasn’t working

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Reason I ask about the shocks is that 5000 are avoided by most owners because of their ride quality compared to the 5000x - super cheap to replace if you feel it rises rough. Could very well be the throw out bearing, also could the white plastic disc between the clutch switch and the master cylinder (circled in red). It can pop loose and float on the shaft. When you depress the pedal fully, the switch squeezes it against the master cyl where it can catch on the sharp edge of the master cylinder and "click" back into the recess.

 

[Daredevil96]

Reason I ask about the shocks is that 5000 are avoided by most owners because of their ride quality compared to the 5000x - super cheap to replace if you feel it rises rough. Could very well be the throw out bearing, also could the white plastic disc between the clutch switch and the master cylinder (circled in red). It can pop loose and float on the shaft. When you depress the pedal fully, the switch squeezes it against the master cyl where it can catch on the sharp edge of the master cylinder and "click" back into the recess.
View attachment 135513

Yikes. In that case, I would say it’s most likely both. I mentioned the throw out bearing since it’s another noise I am talking about apart from the clicking when depressing the clutch. But it is a Jeep so it is most likely both Do you think this would be urgent to switch out or could I drive it for a while until something else breaks in the clutch area?
I am a bit on a budget right now. I recently quit my job to focus on nursing school (I am 23) then my previous Jeep got stolen and I basically almost ran out of money getting this one.

I am probably going to have to buy the steering column part first and see if a friend can help me install it.

my current list of things to fix/add are the following given my last Jeep got stolen:

1) Couple of kill switches
2) Steering column issue
3)Hood lock
4)Alarm (something not too expensive nor fancy. Just need maybe 3 anti-theft systems to make the thieves go onto the next car and annoy the s**t out of them)
5)couple of seals (valve cover/or maybe rear main seal, rear transfer case rear drive axle seal) A mechanic looked at the Jeep before I purchased it and told me I needed some of these). I’ve only changed the valve cover seal on a Jeep once before.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

You’re fortunate in that none of the issues you’re having here are immediate or gonna keep it from working for what could be years and years down the road. I’m a wildland firefighter for the forest service up here in Oregon so I get the struggle of being 23 myself and short on cash Nursing school is an awesome career path, did you have a TJ previously?

 

[Daredevil96]

You’re fortunate in that none of the issues you’re having here are immediate or gonna keep it from working for what could be years and years down the road. I’m a wildland firefighter for the forest service up here in Oregon so I get the struggle of being 23 myself and short on cash Nursing school is an awesome career path, did you have a TJ previously?

Yes! I had a 2006 Rubicon with the NSG370 transmission. It got stolen on New Years eve while I was at work. Got some insurance money for it but still had to use pretty much what I had saved up before I quit my job to get this one.

I should probably try to fix the clear coat on the hood if I get the chance as well before it gets worse

 

[Daredevil96]

Any pics of the underside or suspension would be helpful. I can tell you right off the bat you have 7” flares (2.5” extended over stock same as mine) doesn’t appear to have a body lift but need better pics. It has a suspension lift - need the spring measurement to tell you the lift height. Stock Rubi rocker guard with the added tube step. Light guards all around, stock front and rear bumpers with a flat mount winch plate. Aftermarket front tow hooks. Aftermarket hitch receiver. That sounds like a shot joint in the video you posted. Did you open the hood, have a buddy dry steer it like you were doing and ensure it’s not coming from the lower shaft? If you are correct then you need the upper shaft - I upgraded mine with this one which is super beefy. View attachment 135498

Sorry to bring this up again. Is an “intermediate shaft” the same thing as the upper steering shaft? I am a bit confused

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Sorry to bring this up again. Is an “intermediate shaft” the same thing as the upper steering shaft? I am a bit confused

The “upper” is used by older than 2000, the “intermediate” shaft is used by newer than 2000

 

[DaYooperTransplant]

My eyes may be playing tricks on me, but it appears you have a dropped pitman arm. The consensus on this forum is to go with stock. The dropped arm can and will give you issues.