Axle Lock Misbehaving ***SOLVED***
- Thread starter jeep_boss
- Start date
Yeah, this is strike two for that shop too (the same shop that was quick to sell me the steering kit).
I thought I had this problem fixed with the new bypass mod, but I was thrown off by the test results when I was locking the rear under alternator power.
When I realized the problem was still prevalent, I dove back into the FSM and read over the entire system a few times, then decided to follow one of my tech troubleshooting methodologies by starting at the lowest layer and validating the physical layer. It was when I had the wife hit the axle lock button while my ear was under them, that I figured out that my assumptions of which compressors where front and rear were actually wrong.
Once that was identified, both the behavior that I was seeing and that which the FSM describes made complete sense.
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I am loving my two ultra-simple on-off switches I installed to control the compressors. None of the OE wiring or relays are used. My setup works extremely well. I definitely believe in the K.I.S.S. methodology.
Do you recall what size tubing is needed (for both small and fat lines)? I may do the relocation and rewire job today.
Well, I'm at a crossroads situation right now. I took out my compressors yesterday and started some light fabrication work to house my compressors under the hood. I replaced all of the older tubing with newer line, and ran conduit everywhere.
When I tested both compressors, it would appear that the one for the front operates "faster" than the one for the rear, is this normal?
I bought a couple of inline fuses as well and I have 2 more of those safety switches, although if I decide to go through with the switch swap (say that 10x fast!) I don't know how I would feel about missing the axle lock dash indicators.
There's more hose required for the rear locker so it requires more air, thus the compressor may require more time to engage it... but it also sounds like there could be a leak somewhere in the rear air circuit if the time difference is substantial. Like a split in the air line, a leaky compressor, etc.
I replaced all of the rear compressors's line. When I engage the rear, it starts off kinda fast then quickly slows down to a steady ~90-120 BPM pulse.
The rear locker light goes from blinking to steady after it starts to slow down. It never shuts off though.
I think the compressor is going bad. The front has always been more intense than the rear - best analogy that I can give is that the rear compressor is like an AK-47 and the front compressor is like a Vulcan minigun.
How hard are compressors to acquire these days? Also wondering how much one is going to set me back.
I guess that I'll just have to deal with it for a while. Starting to think about taking the electrical compressors out of the mix entirely (for the ultimate K.I.S.S. setup)!
It is simple to isolate a leak. SIMPLE.
Pull the hose off the compressor and place your finger over the compressor's output nipple. Does the compressor automatically shut off so long as your finger is held in place? If it does, that means the compressor isn't leaking. If the compressor won't stay off, that verifies the compressor is leaking internally. If the compressor is ok and not leaking, work that finger down the hose connections until you isolate the air leak.
Pull the hose off the compressor and place your finger over the compressor's output nipple. Does the compressor automatically shut off so long as your finger is held in place? If it does, that means the compressor isn't leaking. If the compressor won't stay off, that verifies the compressor is leaking internally. If the compressor is ok and not leaking, work that finger down the hose connections until you isolate the air leak.
It is simple to isolate a leak. SIMPLE.
That's a fantastic strategy! Unfortunately the compressor continues to chug a bit (albeit very slow, but steadily) when the output nipple is covered.
Now I have to decide whether or not I should engineer a completely pneumatic locker engagement system. Minus my valued time, I can probably do it cheaper than the cost of a replacement compressor since I have some of the components laying around the the house (small tank, industrial air pressure regulator, tubing, and fittings). I'd want to utilize the existing internal diff switches for indication that each diff is locked, whether that uses the dash lights or a small pair of LEDs remains to be seen, but I can make something work!
Thank you VERY much for your help! This has been incredibly enlightening and now I know that much more about my TJR! (Sucks that we have to break something usually to learn about it hehe!)
Keep in mind your Rubicon locker runs on 5 psi, not the 85 to 100 psi like an ARB air locker runs on.
Whatever you decide on, make sure you have a reliable way to regulate the pressure to 5 psi if you use a standard air compressor. Much higher than 5 psi and you will find yourself with a blown air bladder inside the locker which will absolutely ruin your entire day.
Whatever you decide on, make sure you have a reliable way to regulate the pressure to 5 psi if you use a standard air compressor. Much higher than 5 psi and you will find yourself with a blown air bladder inside the locker which will absolutely ruin your entire day.
That's what I've been reading! Fortunately the regulator I have maxes out around ~8.5psi. It came from an industrial control system and can regulate VERY low.
I am wondering if this is my problem. I went wheeling this weekend and had 2 issues. 1 was the locker issue that is similar to the one you described and the 2nd was the radiator cracking on me 2 hrs. into the trip and ending my day! Anyways, before the radiator cracked I was experiencing locker issue that I have never seen. I had recently had a shop complete a tummy tuck on the 04 TJR. They had to fabricate a bracket and remount the locker pumps. I am not sure if this required them to remove anything or if it was held out of the way during the whole installation. On the trail, when I pressed the locker switch down 1 time the rear light would flash a few times and then the front would start flashing. Both slow flashing and would not engage ( rolled around like i have before to engage them). I pressed the switch a second time and it seemed that the front light would go solid and the rear would keep flashing. Then other presses of the switch seemed to toggle the rear locker off and on, sometimes engaging. But I could not lock the rear alone. I have not had much time to troubleshoot the issue, and I will be focusing more on the radiator, but I am wondering if the shop crossed and high line like your was? Did you ever think maybe an electrical plug was plugged into the wrong pump, telling the front to engage when it should have been telling the rear? Are the pumps marked so that I know which pump is the rear locker and which is the front? I look forward to troubleshooting and hopefully my issue is the same as yours.
Looks like I have a similar problem. One click down and the rear locker light blinks a couple of times and then stays on. One more click down and the front blinks constantly (never staying on.)
The lockers are both locking, however, and work almost immediately after switching them on.
Is there a device in the locker that tells the computer that it’s locked or does it rely on whether the compressors are running or not?
The lockers are both locking, however, and work almost immediately after switching them on.
Is there a device in the locker that tells the computer that it’s locked or does it rely on whether the compressors are running or not?
There is a pin sensor in each diff that tells when the bladder is actuating the locker. Have you or any shop been in your differentials to do any work recently? If so, there is a trick to holding the pin open when reinstalling the carrier so it is on the right side on the actuator.
I’m not sure. I got that Jeep 1/13/2020 and haven’t done anything to it yet except order some Core control arms (not installed yet) and check the fluids.
If I unscrew the pin sensor and it does NOT completely come out, would that indicate that it was reinstalled properly (with the “mushroom” flange engaged to the actuator?)
I'm not sure what you mean...read this thread; it shows the trick to reinstalling and making sure sensor is in proper position.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rubicon-oem-locker-removal.13863/
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