My 99 TJ has a 2 inch body lift and what I believe is a 3 inch suspension lift. It also has a transfer case drop which I really don't like. My first question is if I can remove the transfer case drop while keeping the body lift. If I can't remove the transfer case drop while keeping the body lift what if I halved the body lift to 1" would I then be able to remove the tc drop? I'm assuming the transfer case drop includes what I think are the extension brackets for the shift linkage. Would I need to remove that bracket if I remove the spacers? Pics attached are pics of the bracket and the spacers between the frame and the skid plate as well as pics of my drive shaft angles.
I have a question about my body lift and transfer case drop
- Thread starter NateDog99
- Start date
The ONLY way to remove that transfer case drop is to get a SYE and DC driveshaft combo, as well as a complete set of adjustable control arms.
Without that, you can not remove the transfer case drop, period.
The body lift has no effect whatsoever on the transfer case drop. You can keep it or remove it, as it has nothing to do with the driveline angles and such.
Without that, you can not remove the transfer case drop, period.
The body lift has no effect whatsoever on the transfer case drop. You can keep it or remove it, as it has nothing to do with the driveline angles and such.
Ooooh ok my bad thanks for the reply. I already have adjustable front lower control arms would I need to get adjustable front upper control arms as well as both upper and lower adjustable rear control arms? Also please correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't I not need the SYE and DC if i had a complete set of adjustable control arms because I can just adjust the angles?
Motor mount lift. They are commonly paired with a body lift and reduce the need for a transfer case drop.
I was actually going to look for that earlier today but forgot. How would i determine if i have one or not?
EzPeezy
TJ Enthusiast
You don't NEED all adjustable arms but it makes things a lot easier and sometimes is the only way to get everything set up correctly with regards to clearances and pinion angle. A lot of people buy the adjustable uppers and pair them with fixed length lowers and usually that can get the job done.
The reason that the body lift has nothing to do with the transfer case drop is because all it does it move the body of the jeep up off of the frame by 2". The transfer case drop kit is dropping your TC to an angle that won't stress out the driveshaft too much. The only good way to increase driveshaft angle while staying vibration free is by changing to a slip yoke eliminator housing on the TC and a double cardan driveshaft. Once you make that change you can do all kinds of things to the crossmember to increase belly clearance, starting with removing the drop.
The reason that the body lift has nothing to do with the transfer case drop is because all it does it move the body of the jeep up off of the frame by 2". The transfer case drop kit is dropping your TC to an angle that won't stress out the driveshaft too much. The only good way to increase driveshaft angle while staying vibration free is by changing to a slip yoke eliminator housing on the TC and a double cardan driveshaft. Once you make that change you can do all kinds of things to the crossmember to increase belly clearance, starting with removing the drop.
No worries at all, always happy tp help.
You really want front upper adjustable control arms so you can dial in the caster. Do you need them? No, but you should have them at some point so you can fine tune things.
For the rear, you'll want both upper and lower adjustable control arms.
Even if you had a complete set of rear adjustable control arms (upper and lower) you still need the SYE and DC driveshaft, there is no way around that. With the stock driveshaft you have there, you can't adjust the pinion up like you can with a DC driveshaft.
Here is a great illustration that will help you understand:
ooh ok for some reason i thought since the tc was bolted into the skid plate the position of the body had something to do with it now that im typing it out it doesnt make sense lol
They must have drilled some holes in the radiator shroud to correct for that Bl without doing a MML. 1” MML points your driveshaft back towards the rear diff - making the angle less extreme.
ok so before i remove the tcase drop i need to buy a sye and dc driveshaft got it. damn was hoping i wouldnt have to buy anything for this haha
is that a good or bad thing? Would changing the body lift from a 2" to 1" effect that?
Correct indeed!
I'd suggest https://4xshaft.com (Tom Wood) for your SYE and DC driveshaft. They'll set you up with what you need and give you a good price. You'll notice they are one of the most popular places for driveshafts and SYEs.
Having a BL allows you to put a MML on, it’s a way to help driveshaft angles and possibly remove a transfer case drop. You can run a 1” MML with either a 1” or 2” BL.
It always is
you can absolutely cut down your body lift as well, although I would recommend going with savvy’s 1.25” BL so that the material, shape, and hardware length is all correct. You should look for a 1” MML, again I recommend savvy’s 1” spacer that goes underneath - but brown dog and MORE make complete units that raise it 1” and replace the mount. Just remember not to stray from rubber.Similar threads
