Jeep Wrangler PCM and module repair and replacement

What Features Would You Value Most in a Custom Built Detached Garage / Workshop?

Mr. Bills

Mr. Bills

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My city building department just called. My plans for a detached 18x28 garage/workshop have made it through plan check and have been approved by the planning department. I should be able to pull the permit tomorrow.

Now is my last chance to specify the "must haves" before finalizing the contract with my contractor of choice.

Basic features now:

18 x 28, 2x6 exterior framing, 2-coat stucco over R-Tech foam, 30-year dimensional comp shingles (largest structure to still be in scale with house and not crowd access to the rest of the lot.)
Flat floor (to have a polyaspartic coating)
12 x 8 door, probably a roll up but could be an insulated sectional door.
Insulated walls (R24) and ceiling (R32).
Vaulted ceiling.
All interior walls and ceiling drywalled.
6' sliding patIo door and 6' x 4' window on one side
four 4' x 1' horizontal windows under eve on opposite side;
35 amp 110 + 220 electrical service
sink and toilet
tankless water heater


What "must haves" have I omitted?

One area that I know I must address is heating and cooling. It is 100* for about 100 straight days every summer, with some weeks over 110*. Winter is 40's and high 30's with an occasional freeze. I could put a swamp cooler in the roof but I know there are more high tech solutions for in wall and ductless units. Suggestions?

BTW - I am having the slab poured with a potential future lift in mind but have no immediate plans for a lift. This is going to be more of a man cave/tinkerer's paradise than a fabrication shop.
 
In floor radiant heat, or at minimum install the tube or future use. Also in many building codes there is a requirement for a sloped/draining floor where ever a vehicle is parked so make sure to tell them it's a shop and not a garage if it applies.
 
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Go 12x9 oh door or at least get the low headroom option for the 12x8 with a side opener.
It is incredible how often an 8' high door will be just an inch too low.

Most overhead doors need 12" of headroom, the low headroom track reduces that to 3".
The door clears the ceiling by an inch. Which also improves lighting.

I'd go flat ceiling, vaulted complicates things like hardtop removal hoists etc.
And maybe, get a girder truss over where the engine will be. With a 18' span, a four ply girder could easily be engineered to hoist an engine. Plus a few extra studs to take the load in the wall.

And plywood or OSB on the lower 4' of the walls.

Maybe substitute the patio slider for a 5x8 overhead door.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Bills said:
My city building department just called. My plans for a detached 18x28 garage/workshop have made it through plan check and have been approved by the planning department. I should be able to pull the permit tomorrow.

Now is my last chance to specify the "must haves" before finalizing the contract with my contractor of choice.

Basic features now:

18 x 28, 2x6 exterior framing, 2-coat stucco over R-Tech foam, 30-year dimensional comp shingles (largest structure to still be in scale with house and not crowd access to the rest of the lot.)
Flat floor (to have a polyaspartic coating)
12 x 8 door, probably a roll up but could be an insulated sectional door.
Insulated walls (R24) and ceiling (R32).
Vaulted ceiling.
All interior walls and ceiling drywalled.
6' sliding patIo door and 6' x 4' window on one side
four 4' x 1' horizontal windows under eve on opposite side;
35 amp 110 + 220 electrical service
sink and toilet
tankless water heater


What "must haves" have I omitted?

One area that I know I must address is heating and cooling. It is 100* for about 100 straight days every summer, with some weeks over 110*. Winter is 40's and high 30's with an occasional freeze. I could put a swamp cooler in the roof but I know there are more high tech solutions for in wall and ductless units. Suggestions?

BTW - I am having the slab poured with a potential future lift in mind but have no immediate plans for a lift. This is going to be more of a man cave/tinkerer's paradise than a fabrication shop.
Click to expand...
A 2- ton wall mount mini split heat pump.
 
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L J said:
beer fridge
bbq/smoker
Click to expand...

Yep, maybe a nice little bar in the corner.

melvin3-1.webp
 
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When I built my 30 x 40 shop, I line cut with a wet concrete saw the expansion joints the next morning after the pour while the concrete was green. You get a nice 1/4" cut instead of the usual trowled grove, your creeper rolls right over the line cut. I had 11' side walls and a 15' peak with two 10 x 10 roll ups on one end, a lift would of been limited unless it was in the middle of the two bays and still would be limited for a lifted pick up. Roll ups are better because sectional doors take away overhead options when they are open. And already mentioned, lots of lighting, there are some awesome led lights for shops these days,,,gregg
 
chad said:
A place to put your air compressor outside the area you’re going to be working/Looking at your Jeep.
Click to expand...

Good point.

I have an area behind the new workshop/garage for the compressor. The neighbor behind me may not like that, but he's a dick so I'll insulate the noise as best I can and call it a day. I'm not a heavy compressor user and will probably never use it after the dinner hour so it shouldn't be an issue for a normal neighbor.
 
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astjp2 said:
not enough power, you need 100 amps if you want to run a compressor and a welder.

also run some pex for air lines along the walls... and put in a lift...
Click to expand...

Will let Mr. Scott, my electrician, know that I need more power. [He really is named Mr. Scott.]

Good suggestion on the air line, but no lift for me in the foreseeable future. However, the slab will be prepped for one.
 
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Brokeass Boater said:
. . . Roll ups are better because sectional doors take away overhead options when they are open. And already mentioned, lots of lighting, there are some awesome led lights for shops these days,,,gregg
Click to expand...

The plan is for a roll up. The roof has a dutch gable in front which will match the front of the house when viewed from the street. This allows a flat ceiling for the first few feet where the roll up can be mounted with vaulted ceiling behind that to the rear of the structure. [Simple open gable in rear.]
 
Plumbed air lines from your compressor that terminate in more than one location at a height that's convenient to you. That way you won't have to drag a hose all over the place.
 
All good suggestions!!... on a serious note I would recommend floor drains!!
 
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