You can usually get the front springs in once you pull the shocks and remove the TB.
Absolutely no need for a spring compressor, I've never used one for the 2" to 5.5" lifts I've installed on my TJs. Just unbolt the bottoms of the shocks and antiswaybars and the axle will droop enough to insert the springs. If you ever need another inch or so of space, lift the axle up on the opposite side to give a little more room on the side you're working on.Just take your time and pace yourself, you can pull it off solo, especially with a lift. I did my lift solo, and was lucky to have access to a lift at work on the weekend. A coil spring compressor is nice to have for the front, but not a deal breaker. You can usually rent them from the parts store. I cheat and use a couple lengths of 3/8" chain and some bolts/washers/nuts and a poor man's compressor.
Lol by chance Jerry do you have a go to floor jack reccomendation? I have been using the stock bottle jack and some 3 ton jack stands for far too long lol.Absolutely no need for a spring compressor, I've never used one for the 2" to 5.5" lifts I've installed on my TJs. Just unbolt the bottoms of the shocks and antiswaybars and the axle will droop enough to insert the springs. If you ever need another inch or so of space, lift the axle up on the opposite side to give a little more room on the side you're working on.![]()
I can believe that. Being as I don't think harbor freight makes that same size jack anymore should I lean more towards the 2 ton jack that travels higher (max travel 23.75") or the larger 3 ton jack (max travel 19.5")?6 ton Jack stands and a 2 3/4 ton hydraulic floor jack from Harbor Freight Tools have done a good job for me for many years.
X2. A strategically placed hydraulic bottle jack will push the axle down enough to slip in the spring after disconnecting the lower shock mount & sway bar links. Front or rear.Absolutely no need for a spring compressor, I've never used one for the 2" to 5.5" lifts I've installed on my TJs. Just unbolt the bottoms of the shocks and antiswaybars and the axle will droop enough to insert the springs. If you ever need another inch or so of space, lift the axle up on the opposite side to give a little more room on the side you're working on.![]()
I used the method that Jerry mentioned, and worked like a champ. No spring compressor or bottle Jack needed. I suppose you could use the bottle Jack the same way we used our floor Jack's.X2. A strategically placed hydraulic bottle jack will push the axle down enough to slip in the spring after disconnecting the lower shock mount & sway bar links. Front or rear.
One other question I wanted to ask since I didn't think it warranted a new thread. Do I need to have the tires mounted to the rims and ready to put on the jeep as soon as the lift is done or can I drive the jeep 20 miles to my tire shop and have the tires put on the rims then? I don't know if I need to have the tires ready upfront, I know it will look silly if I drive it on stock tires lol. Hopefully this is somewhat coherent.
Thank you for pointing this out! Yep gonna need the tires before not after lolHow will you be able to setup your bump stops without the new size tires not on?
Thank you Bob!Since you'll have an inch more clearance than I have, you should be able to get away with one hockey puck in the front. The OME lift kit should come with 1" bump stop extensions for the rear. You may need more in the rear to clear your flares. Just a starting point. Once you pull the springs, You can put the wheels on and go to full bump and get your measurements.
I think i can put 3 of the tires on the inside of the jeep and two on the roof rack. I'll have backseat removed.The other question would be; how do you fit your wheels and tires in the Jeep if you have to take them to the shop to have them put on.
The other question would be; how do you fit your wheels and tires in the Jeep if you have to take them to the shop to have them put on.