Leaking Dana 44 rear axle seals

srimes

TJ Guru
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
13,429
Location
Rogue Valley, Oregon
So my 99 TJ dana 44 *rear axle* is leaking at the drums, mostly passenger side. Shop quoted $200 to fix. I searched and found:
1) Make sure vent tube isn't plugged - simple enough
2) Make sure diff isn't overfilled.

I have an OX locker. Is the fill plug on these covers too high?

Shop quoted $200 to replace seals on both sides. That's over half way to chromo shafts w/ seals installed. I'm on 35s should I upgrade? If so who should I order from? I'm in Oregon if that matters.

If I get new shafts, should I stick with drums or swap to disks?

I don't want to upgrade just for the sake of upgrading. I just don't want to do a basic repair and then upgrade shortly after effectively doing the job twice.
 
Last edited:
which seals did the shop determined to be leaking? inners or outers?
 
I have an OX locker. Is the fill plug on these covers too high?

Shop quoted $200 to replace seals on both sides. That's over half way to chromo shafts w/ seals installed. I'm on 35s should I upgrade? If so who should I order from? I'm in Oregon if that matters.

If I get new shafts, should I stick with drums or swap to disks?
If it is leaking at the seal and your diff breather hose isn't clogged, then it's a bad seal. If your diff is over filled it will puke it out the breather hose.

If you are thinking about swapping drums to disc, do that before you order shafts as they have different retaining plates. If you decide to go that route and get new shafts, go with Revolution shafts.
 
$200 to replace the seals isn't a bad price. Especially since they will fix it if it leaks again. I'd ask them which seals they use, because that matters.

Edit: If you have them do it, make sure to have them take a look at the axle splines. If they're twisted, that's your sign to replace them! Also, make sure they know you'll need new bearings as well. Can't do the seal without replacing them!
 
Last edited:
$200 is very reasonable imho. You have to replace the bearings at the same time in order to get to the seals. Make sure that quote uses Timken SET10 bearings with Timken 9912S seals. It does make a difference.
 
Rear disc brakes don't make much of a difference in stopping power, thats pretty widely accepted. However maintenance is easier, thats my opinion.

OK I'll skip the conversion then. Unless there's a big advantage I won't bother. Thanks.
 
I went to check the breather vent and found it was caped at the axle. Why would someone do that? And here I was ready to pull the trigger on Revolution shafts. I'll hold off unless chromo is necessary for 35s on the rocks,

Where should I run the vent tube to? I'm thinking firewall just in case I end up in deep water. No plans but shit happens....
 
I went to check the breather vent and found it was caped at the axle. Why would someone do that? And here I was ready to pull the trigger on Revolution shafts. I'll hold off unless chromo is necessary for 35s on the rocks,

Where should I run the vent tube to? I'm thinking firewall just in case I end up in deep water. No plans but shit happens....
Just run it up into the drivers tail light area like the factory did
 
The plugged port is too small to be the factory vent. I suspect it used to be for an air locker. I found the actual vent tube (didn't realize it came from the break block), and it isn't plugged. So I'm back to the seals being bad.

Placed an order for revolution chromo shafts. Yay upgrades!