Did you unscrew the can from the gauge and remove the protective seal that says remove before use?
My A/C compressor clicks on every 6-7 seconds
- Thread starter connorek
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I might also add, there’s no water leaking from the AC system as well, I have a hose hooked up from the firewall AC water “exhaust” so it doesn’t leak water into the cabin passenger side, but there’s no water or evaporates coming out of that hose.
Yes I did, both cans were just the cans without the gauge, I already had a gauge and hose.
Your compressor will also cycle if it's overcharged. It's really hard to get a wag on what's going on without a proper set of manifold gauges that let you monitor pressures on both sides.
I have personally never been a fan of the low-side cans. But, I've always had a set of manifold gauges.
When it doubt, evacuate, vacuum, recharge.
And I know there are a couple crude ways to evacuate the system, but for someone without a spare air canister on hand, what would be the best way to evacuate the system?
The only time you will see "water" leaking from the drain tube is when you have a functioning evaporator. It condenses the moisture because of how cold it gets when the system is operating efficiently. No cold = no condensation = no water coming out of the drain.
The right way to evacuate the system is to hook it up to a machine & suck it out.
The shade tree way is to hook up a set of manifold gauges to both sides & open it to atmosphere, then connect a vacuum pump to the gauge set & vacuum it down.
If your going to have to redo it you should really comb over the whole system for signs of a leak. Refrigerant is greasy, so it usually attracts dirt. Look at all the unions for dirty grease spots, and look real close at the condenser in front of the radiator. A leaking condenser will have a patch of shit around the leak from road dirt sticking to the leaking refrigerant.
Those two posts don't quite line up. I was going to ask for some clarification, not that I could help but knowing what we're reading can't be a bad thing.
Hopefully these two posts line up better:
I'd try to get some reviews from a couple different places before I took any AC problems to be fixed. About 15 yrs ago we had an always busy local repair shop work on the Chevy Venture AC. They did what they could but couldn't get it right. We ended up paying for their diagnostic and some fairly inexpensive part then took it to a shop whose main job was AC. They gave us the exact same diagnosis, installed a somewhat expensive and bigger new part and everything was perfectly fine.
i'd just keep adding freon to it, you need a bigger bottle with more pressure !
maybe get one of those 5 gal bottles, yea that will do it ! but hey dont check the pressure switches, they didn't put them in there to prevent the system from destroying itself . now lets see, i have the can hooked up and when the compressor kicks on the needle jumps and the compressor kicks off 
huh, there's no fucking way that a bad switch would cut off the compressor. also if there's not enough freon in the system you need to bypass the low pressure switch for it to kick the compressor on long enough to take the freon. but dont dare do that just hook up your bottle and try to add more ! 
Had this exact scenario on my '05 4.0.
Freon charge and manifold pressures were fine. Issue was a bad low-pressure sensor. $15 part, 2 minutes to replace. No more cycling...
Freon charge and manifold pressures were fine. Issue was a bad low-pressure sensor. $15 part, 2 minutes to replace. No more cycling...
NO ! thats not it, he needs more freon !
thats why i suggested jumpering the swich connector to the switches. and if its real low on freon it wont even cycle on enough to take it in the system unless you jump the low switch !
was taking my husky surfing in S.C. years ago about a 5hr trip in 90 deg. and the a/c wouldn't cool in my bronco. we pulled into a rest area and lifted the hood. compressor was cycling and not staying on. we jumpered the low pressure switch a/c started cooling (but with it not doing it's normal cycle it will freeze up). so we pulled into parts store and added a small can of freon. plugged switch back up and it started doing the quick cycling again. jumped switch back to normal. a $15 low pressure switch that they luckily had in stock and back on the road a/c blowing 36deg and fog out of the vents....2 happy dogs !
IF there is moisture in the A/C system the discharge air coming from the ducts will feel warm due to moisture restricting the metering device.
I will make the same recommendation I did early on in this discussion; take the Jeep in to a reputable A/C shop and let them do a thorough inspection of the system and test the pressures with a gauge manifold....
I will make the same recommendation I did early on in this discussion; take the Jeep in to a reputable A/C shop and let them do a thorough inspection of the system and test the pressures with a gauge manifold....
and if the belt is broken the air coming from the ducts will be warm due to the compressor not turning and not compressing. and if the low pressure switch tells the compressor its pressure is low it will cut it off, then it will try to restart, then it will cut off, then it will restart. same with the high pressure switch. which will make the air coming out of the ducts warm to hot depending on outside temp. but hey i'd take it to the shop, like i normally do when my jeep is low in the back, the shop adds air to the tire charges me $50 and i drive off, i always figure my spring are broke
You are missing the point that I am trying to make... and your sarcasm is not helping the OP resolve the problem.and if the belt is broken the air coming from the ducts will be warm due to the compressor not turning and not compressing. and if the low pressure switch tells the compressor its pressure is low it will cut it off, then it will try to restart, then it will cut off, then it will restart. same with the high pressure switch. which will make the air coming out of the ducts warm to hot depending on outside temp. but hey i'd take it to the shop, like i normally do when my jeep is low in the back, the shop adds air to the tire charges me $50 and i drive off, i always figure my spring are broke
Servicing a high pressure system such as the A/C system should be left to the Professionals or people with technical training...
The scenario I posted certainly could exist, but without the proper tools you may never know. This is why I recommend locating a reputable shop to get the work done instead of risking further damage to the system or personal injury.
did you miss this part. it's a 22 year old vehicle and i can tell you what they'll tell him. he needs new seals and they will need to completly evac his system after they replace the seals, and probably put in a new evap/dryer and thank you very much for the $500. it is worth trying to jumper the cheap switches that can be replaced without effecting the system charge before carrying it to a shop !
Your passive aggression & rolling eye emojis make it really hard to tell what kind of advice you're trying to offer.i'd just keep adding freon to it, you need a bigger bottle with more pressure !
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