The Usual Rear Shock Problems

Zorba

Zorba

"The Veiled Male"
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Apr 2, 2020
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Merritt Island, Fl
Two problems right now:

1) I *really* can't get onto at least two of the bolt heads - they're right up against the frame.

2) The one bolt that I could get onto of course fucking snapped off.

I have little idea of how to get at this thing good enough to be able to do anything about it - and am thinking of paying someone else to R&R these stupid things. <mini rant> I consider myself an "advanced beginner" or a "beginning intermediate" at working on vehicles - FWIW - and of all the vehicles I've ever worked on, this Jeep is BY FAR the hardest in many ways. Things are too small, too cramped, too crowded, etc, etc to get at! </mini rant>

Any advice/encouragement would be appreciated...

I really think a bar pin converter is the way to go on these...
 
a thin socket and about 15" of extensions makes the reach easier.

i had a couple break on me and i cut the studs as flush to the cross member as i could then drilled up through the broken bolt and nut. then got some bolts long enough to run up through the drilled nut and capped it with a new 1. body lift makes it a bit easier to access, but tape the nut to a long wrench and reach it in there.
 
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someguysjeep said:
a thin socket and about 15" of extensions makes the reach easier.

i had a couple break on me and i cut the studs as flush to the cross member as i could then drilled up through the broken bolt and nut. then got some bolts long enough to run up through the drilled nut and capped it with a new 1. body lift makes it a bit easier to access, but tape the nut to a long wrench and reach it in there.
Click to expand...
Yea, I was using a long extension - what I don't have is a "thin" socket. Edumacate me - where/how do I obtain one?

And - this is going to sound really stupid - but how do you even GET TO the broken stud to drill it? I have several electric drills - each one larger than the previous one...
 
What @someguysjeep said. Did you presoak with liquid wrench? I was able to use a thin socket and extensions and took my time working them out. I have found it helpful to turn it out, spray more solvent, turn it back in, back out some more, etc.
 
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they do make thin wall sockets, not sure who might have them but they exist.

i used a dremel but 1 could "jail break" it with a hacksaw blade if you had to..

i will say that dremel is 1 uncomfortable tool to be using overhead with no dead man switch if it binds and slips your grip, you better be super cat like quick..
 
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RMETeeJay said:
What @someguysjeep said. Did you presoak with liquid wrench? I was able to use a thin socket and extensions and took my time working them out. I have found it helpful to turn it out, spray more solvent, turn it back in, back out some more, etc.
Click to expand...
I pre-soaked as best I could - can't get at much...
 
someguysjeep said:
they do make thin wall sockets, not sure who might have them but they exist.

i used a dremel but 1 could "jail break" it with a hacksaw blade if you had to..

i will say that dremel is 1 uncomfortable tool to be using overhead with no dead man switch if it binds and slips your grip.
Click to expand...
Ok - a Dremel at least makes some sense! I'll look around for thin wall sockets. Thanx!
 
Try a 1/4” socket with 3/8” adapter first if you have them.

I was able to spray best between the frame and tub. If you shine a bright light, you should be able to see the screw heads.
 
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RMETeeJay said:
Try a 1/4” socket with 3/8” adapter first if you have them.

I was able to spray best between the frame and tub. If you shine a bright light, you should be able to see the screw heads.
Click to expand...
I don't. I just ordered a 3/8" drive, deep, 13mm 6 point thin wall socket. This will give me time to noodle on this PITA while it ships...
 
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Those rear upper bolts really suck if you live in the rust belt. All but one of mine snapped when attempting to remove them.

I ended up removing the body mount bolts and lifting the body up enough to reach in and grind the nuts from the upper crossmember.
I then welded in new nuts, used grade 8 bolts and a lot of antiseize.

I've used these on a couple of jeeps. they say for XJ, but work on TJ's also.

https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-x...term=4583863981461771&utm_content=Ad group #1
 
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@williambmac Now THAT is the way to go. I'll see what happens with the rest of these bolts, but that let's me see the light at the end of the tunnel! Looks like you could slide those in from the outside edge (wheel well).
 
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If you have a mini impact driver, like used for decking screws, you can get a socket adapter and use that. The minimal impact was enough to get mine moving without rounding off. If you get the second bolts loose enough you can wiggle the bar pin on the end of the shock free.
 
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LittleTankTJ said:
If you have a mini impact driver, like used for decking screws, you can get a socket adapter and use that. The minimal impact was enough to get mine moving without rounding off. If you get the second bolts loose enough you can wiggle the bar pin on the end of the shock free.
Click to expand...
I don't - but maybe its time to get one.
 
When I replaced my rear shocks I SOAKED with PB Blaster and Kroil for several days .
To get better access to the upper bolts you will probably need to remove the tires.
Before trying to loosen the bolts CCW; I tightened them slightly CW, then CCW slightly, repeating numerous times until I was able to move them 1/4 to 1/2 turn, applied more penetrant and continued. This process works well for me....
After removing the bolts I chased the threads and applied anti-seize to the bolt threads before installing the new shocks....
 
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I don't live in the rust belt and two of mine snapped. I used an air chisel and popped them out in under a minute. Then I used the bar pin flag nut setup that Williambmac showed. I bought two sets of them after snapping them off my XJ earlier.
 
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CharlesHS said:
When I replaced my rear shocks I SOAKED with PB Blaster and Kroil for several days .
To get better access to the upper bolts you will probably need to remove the tires.
Before trying to loosen the bolts CCW; I tightened them slightly CW, then CCW slightly, repeating numerous times until I was able to move them 1/4 to 1/2 turn, applied more penetrant and continued. This process works well for me....
After removing the bolts I chased the threads and applied anti-seize to the bolt threads before installing the new shocks....
Click to expand...
That's what I was trying for too - didn't work...

6 point socket should help though.
 
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Zorba said:
That's what I was trying for too - didn't work...

6 point socket should help though.
Click to expand...
Not sure what you have going on but I've never needed anything but a normal six point socket on a long extension to get the rear shock upper bolts loose. I typically push the shock over to the side with the tire off and there is plenty of room. Even works with our impact sockets in 3/8" drive.
 
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mrblaine said:
Not sure what you have going on but I've never needed anything but a normal six point socket on a long extension to get the rear shock upper bolts loose. I typically push the shock over to the side with the tire off and there is plenty of room. Even works with our impact sockets in 3/8" drive.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this - for whatever reason, I can't get a socket on the outboard bolt, passenger side - its very close to the frame. But I was using a 1/2" drive, 12 point socket.
 
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