Recent content by Captain Phoenix

That's exactly the thread I was thinking of.

You can do an alignment yourself fairly easily.

I bought the tool way in advance then dropped the tank as part of a different job so wasn't ready and couldn't find the tool I had bought.

Weird, I've also seen people say that after 3 years the Moog parts were significantly rustier than the 20 year old OEM parts beside them.

That's an electrophoresis coating. I scuffed mind with sand paper then primed and painted.

I need to remember that in October when I do mine.

Mine won't even start.

That's a known thing to watch for with Moog parts. I had to return one for that reason and I just found one now that looked threaded but I can't get the fitting in, after it's easy past too late to return it and after I painted it.

One of the stock tie rod ends is correct so if you don't want to replace it with new then you can just reuse it. Same with one of the coupling sleeves. I don't think the track bar bushings can be replaced but a new stock track bar isn't expensive.

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 😂😂😂😂😂

That's where I am now. Am I good to start it?

So the slot doesn't matter, just the gear alignment?

So I pinned the old OPDA and removed it, then put the pin in the new OPDA and it installs like this. I'm not sure how to proceed from here.

The upper heater hose is a larger diameter house than the lower one. I bought a 6' piece of 5/8" Gates hose and it fit fine on the lower heater core fitting, both fittings on the oil cooler, and the water pump pipe. The Eco Boost cooler has larger fittings so you splice into the larger heater...

That's because you need to use a 5/8" hose. The 3/4" would be too loose at the heater core and water pump pipe as well.