OPDA timing / alignment issues?

[mots]

As a side note. I've seen where DRB's can be rented, but I have never used the service before.
https://www.controllertech.com/products/drb-iii-rental
Can't be much more expensive than going to a dealer for an out of warranty vehicle, and you would have it to play around with for 3 days . Or, if a few folks wanted to rent and share the cost in for a group meet, then it could be pretty cheap.

As another thought on this, does anybody know if there is a 3rd party compatible DRB emulator/scanner for Chrysler/Jeep that would support these types of functions? In the VW community we had Ross-Tech VCDS Software and some other 3rd party mobile phone apps that could do essentially everything the VW\Audi proprietary scanners could do. I would love to have something like this for the Jeep.

 

[Chasitek]

Ok. I went back and reread this thread again. You said it will run/idle but will die when put under load. Since your OPDA adjustments, have you let it get up to operating temp at any time? This is when your CEL will come on if your timing/sync is slightly off. Majorly off it would likely not run at all. While I was going thru the steps of fine tuning mine, my CEL wouldn't come on either unless I let it run long enough to reach operating temp. Then like clockwork it would come on even though it idled smoothly. Makes sense now. You will either have to go through the TDC steps to align housing (sensor) with the internal disk (cam gear) several times until you get it up to operating temp without a CEL or take it somewhere to have someone with a DRB set/align it exactly as Blaine mentioned.

The new problem is exactly that, it will idle and when up to operating temp, it dies and won’t restart. It will only start once the engine has cooled down.

 

[taylormade73]

The new problem is exactly that, it will idle and when up to operating temp, it dies and won’t restart. It will only start once the engine has cooled down.

At this point, either keep fine tuning by trial and error or get someone with a DRB to set it exact.

 

[Chasitek]

At this point, either keep fine tuning by trial and error or get someone with a DRB to set it exact.

I think I’m going to mess with it a little more. Do you know how much it would cost for it to be reset? Also, if I do have it reset, they’re just going into the computer and telling it that where it’s at now is TDC? Can I just unplug the battery for 10 minuted and reconnect? Thanks.

ps:how did you get yours fixed?

 

[taylormade73]

No idea on cost.
It's a physical timing sync.
No on the battery disconnect.
When I went thru the TDC process the second time, I was able to get it timed properly (so far at least).

Hopefully, you didn't turn the crank without the OPDA in it did you?

 

[Chasitek]

No idea on cost.
It's a physical timing sync.
No on the battery disconnect.
When I went thru the TDC process the second time, I was able to get it timed properly (so far at least).

Hopefully, you didn't turn the crank without the OPDA in it did you?

I did turn it with the opda in it. Why does it matter? wouldn’t it be the same as trying to start it when it isn’t in time?

 

[Painfultruth]

As a side note. I've seen where DRB's can be rented, but I have never used the service before.
https://www.controllertech.com/products/drb-iii-rental
Can't be much more expensive than going to a dealer for an out of warranty vehicle, and you would have it to play around with for 3 days . Or, if a few folks wanted to rent and share the cost in for a group meet, then it could be pretty cheap.

As another thought on this, does anybody know if there is a 3rd party compatible DRB emulator/scanner for Chrysler/Jeep that would support these types of functions? In the VW community we had Ross-Tech VCDS Software and some other 3rd party mobile phone apps that could do essentially everything the VW\Audi proprietary scanners could do. I would love to have something like this for the Jeep.

Any bidirectional scan tool that I am aware of has the ability to do it.

 

[taylormade73]

I did turn it with the opda in it. Why does it matter? wouldn’t it be the same as trying to start it when it isn’t in time?

It doesn't matter now, because you didn't do it. However, in an effort to gain a clearer understanding, I believe the teeth on the OPDA line up in a specific way with the cam gear, which in turn is in sync with the crank. The worm gear on the OPDA is fixed to the the alignment of the inner disk with the hole on it, which gets aligned with the housing and sensor for timing. Thus, if you turned the crank without the OPDA installed, then the alignment of the worm gear and cam gear would be potentially off a few teeth. This is why they say to install the OPDA exactly as you removed it, else all you would have to do is align the holes on the housing and disk at TDC, regardless of gear orientation/mesh. Someone with more experience please correct me if I am wrong on this.

 

[mots]

Any bidirectional scan tool that I am aware of has the ability to do it.

Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I guess I should have thrown "less expensive" into my comment. I do realize that SnapOn, Matco and other more expensive bi-directional scanners have the "Set Sync" and other advanced testing and diagnostic features, like the DRB has. I am looking for a more reasonably priced solution, if one exists. For the VW\Audi VCDS I mentioned, it was like $300. There was another product called OBDeleven that was even cheaper for the VW platform that could do most of the same things. I was hoping someone knew of something closer to that price range. Otherwise, it wouldn't be worth it for me to buy a $1000 scanner for as often as I use these type of "specialty" functions.

 

[Chasitek]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I guess I should have thrown "less expensive" into my comment. I do realize that SnapOn, Matco and other more expensive bi-directional scanners have the "Set Sync" and other advanced testing and diagnostic features, like the DRB has. I am looking for a more reasonably priced solution, if one exists. For the VW\Audi VCDS I mentioned, it was like $300. There was another product called OBDeleven that was even cheaper for the VW platform that could do most of the same things. I was hoping someone knew of something closer to that price range. Otherwise, it wouldn't be worth it for me to buy a $1000 scanner for as often as I use these type of "specialty" functions.

Ah. Okay. I have a snap on scanner that can sync it.

It doesn't matter now, because you didn't do it. However, in an effort to gain a clearer understanding, I believe the teeth on the OPDA line up in a specific way with the cam gear, which in turn is in sync with the crank. The worm gear on the OPDA is fixed to the the alignment of the inner disk with the hole on it, which gets aligned with the housing and sensor for timing. Thus, if you turned the crank without the OPDA installed, then the alignment of the worm gear and cam gear would be potentially off a few teeth. This is why they say to install the OPDA exactly as you removed it, else all you would have to do is align the holes on the housing and disk at TDC, regardless of gear orientation/mesh. Someone with more experience please correct me if I am wrong on this.

i think they only tell you to remove it and keep it aligned so you don’t have to go through the hell I am going through. I’ll figure it out though. Thanks everyone for the feedback.

 

[mots]

Ah. Okay. I have a snap on scanner that can sync it.

That's great. You lucky dog!

 

[Frank M]

I paid $95 to have mine synced

 

[Chasitek]

That's great. You lucky dog!

Let me rephrase. I have access to a snap on verus edge. I own a $100 bluedriver scanner and greatly debated whether I wanted to spend the $100 for it.

 

[mots]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I guess I should have thrown "less expensive" into my comment. I do realize that SnapOn, Matco and other more expensive bi-directional scanners have the "Set Sync" and other advanced testing and diagnostic features, like the DRB has. I am looking for a more reasonably priced solution, if one exists. For the VW\Audi VCDS I mentioned, it was like $300. There was another product called OBDeleven that was even cheaper for the VW platform that could do most of the same things. I was hoping someone knew of something closer to that price range. Otherwise, it wouldn't be worth it for me to buy a $1000 scanner for as often as I use these type of "specialty" functions.

Hmm, did some research and this one looks interesting. I am going to keep researching to see if I can find where someone reports using it to do the sync command that we need for the OPDA swaps. I'll also see if I can find any other similar products.

wiTech MicroPod 2 for Chrysler - runs off a dongle USB cable and laptop, like the VW software I mentioned. Says Windows 7 only, but hopefully Win 10 too, perhaps in compat mode. Supports the TJ and also Chrysler up through 2018. That would be good for me since I also have a 2016 JK. You can even buy laptops with the dongle and software setup already for$399 I saw. Not for me, but perhaps others would.

Note sure what the difference between the models is yet...
https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-5281...18OFIRDMjqunKY_Z453haGY-tgxHnhDBoChkUQAvD_BwE

OR

https://www.obd2tool.com/goods-5172-wiTech+MicroPod+2+for+Chrysler+Diagnostic+Tool.html

 

[Rmock1]

The procedure you need to follow is on page 417 of the service manual. Begin with step 6.

When you install the OPDA, note that it will rotate clockwise as it goes into the block. It should be at roughly 4 o-clock when fully seated. After you tighten everything down, if you find it does not start or if it sets codes, loosen the hold down bolt and rotate slightly further clockwise and repeat as necessary.

Do I need to return the engine to TDC before loosing the bolt and adjusting counter clockwise?

 

[Frank M]

You should be able to just loosen the bolt and turn it a little bit. Don’t have to return to top dead center.

You can double check by looking in the resource area on this site for the FSM

 

[hear]

Do I need to return the engine to TDC before loosing the bolt and adjusting counter clockwise?

It really only becomes a thing if you take the entire assembly out. Then you have to put it in exactly as you took it out, and make sure the engine hasn't rotated at all while the OPDA was out. I find that marking the orientation of everything at the outset is extremely important. But when in doubt, finding TDC is the more foolproof way. But being foolproof is a function of the fool in question, so ymmv.

 

[Captain Phoenix]

So I pinned the old OPDA and removed it, then put the pin in the new OPDA and it installs like this.

I'm not sure how to proceed from here.

 

[JKP]

You have to adjust the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver to move where it aligns and drops in. It really doesn't matter where it ends up as long as the harness reaches it.

 

[Captain Phoenix]

You have to adjust the oil pump slot with a long screwdriver to move where it aligns and drops in. It really doesn't matter where it ends up as long as the harness reaches it.

So the slot doesn't matter, just the gear alignment?