Recent content by glowell222

This is the one I used but good lord-in 2019 it was $42.11. Vapor Lines

I replaced mine with an OMIX set, but I can't find it now. Don't forget to check your fuel vapor lines as well. They are very close to the exhaust. EDITED TO ADD: I used the Classic Tube stainless kit for my brakes. The driver's side front and rear were formed exactly backwards, and I had to...

I will happily make the trade of rust for lichen. I would have a t-shirt made that said something like "I'm likin' lichen!' or something similarly clever.

It's a fair point. I have had an aftermarket stereo, and I despised all the flashy blingy lights, and I went back to OEM. In my case, I am definitely staying as close to OEM as possible.

You would need to get into the case and solder an aux input cable or BT module to the L/G/R of the CD input circuit.

These are pretty easy to update with Bluetooth.

I just looked at mine-I don't have that cable or any cable coming out of that rubber plug.

Occasionally, I pick up that one spoon with the concave side reversed.

It certainly didn't sound like a day off.

I replaced the driver's side interior (full) door latch with a brand new unit. I am also replacing the interior door release with a new one when it arrives. The existing release handle spring has broken. Hopefully these replacements will last as long as the originals. I didn't snap any...

My frame was like this. I also had to repair both torque boxes-seriously rusted. I suspect that your trans skid plate mounts are in serious trouble.

MrTeak-If I'm you, I'm looking at the inside of the frame. With this much external corrosion, you are probably quite rusty in the frame as well, and at the torque boxes.

Black with a spice or tan hardtop is a classic.

Thanks for posting this--time to do some work...

Extra sun visors are always helpful, particularly if you have the E/W drive. That space between the two sun visors is a killer, same on the driver's side window where the visor doesn't reach.