Time for a replacement AX-15

glowell222

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Real world product life cycle: My AX-15 lost all gears except 4th yesterday, at 353k miles. I've towed with it, off-roaded overland-style, taught quite a few young folks to drive manual in it, and both of my kids used it during their teen years. Needless to say-it hasn't been babied.

Anyway, I bought a new AX back in '21 direct from the manufacturer as I was told these last about 200k miles or so. New Luk HD clutch kit will arrive in the next few days. Is there anything else I should have on hand for the install? I've replaced multiple 2wd transmissions, but never one with a transfer case. Any tips and tricks?

I appreciate any and all input.
 
Maybe check the linkages to ensure no excessive wear. There is a replacement post for the clutch pedal to master cylinder, and I have heard about the pivot arm in the transmission being worn. That’s about all I know to check.
 
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Good time to install a Savvy cable shifter for the transfer case.

You can bench press the transfer case. It's not hard. Six 9/16" bolts.

ezgif-3-42c251f964.gif


Might want to replace the E12 reverse torx bolts with regular hex head.

IMG20260615103803.webp


Disconnect the battery terminal and don't bother disconnecting the wires on the starter...it'll tuck out of the way.

What are you using to pull the pilot bearing?

Master/slave clutch pedal might need replacement. When you pull it wrap the rod in electrical tape so it doesn't fall out of the socket.

Honestly the hardest part is getting your exhaust apart. Start soaking the bolts now with penetrate or plan on cutting them and replacing them.

-Mac
 
Good time to install a Savvy cable shifter for the transfer case.

You can bench press the transfer case. It's not hard. Six 9/16" bolts.

View attachment 696914

Might want to replace the E12 reverse torx bolts with regular hex head.

View attachment 696913

Disconnect the battery terminal and don't bother disconnecting the wires on the starter...it'll tuck out of the way.

What are you using to pull the pilot bearing?

Master/slave clutch pedal might need replacement. When you pull it wrap the rod in electrical tape so it doesn't fall out of the socket.

Honestly the hardest part is getting your exhaust apart. Start soaking the bolts now with penetrate or plan on cutting them and replacing them.

-Mac

Thanks Mac. For the pilot bearing, I have a bearing puller I used when I replaced the clutch back in '19-I replaced the clutch slave back then as well. Good advice on the reverse torx and the penetrant-thanks.
 
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I added a B&M short shifter to my new AX-15 and really like it. I had to replace mine because the synchros were gone, previous owner used the wrong fluid. I use Redline GL-4 MT90 in the new one and it shifts great.
 
Same-MT90 is what I use. Part of me wants to rebuild the NP231 as well, but I want to see how long it goes. It's pretty whiny, though.
 
I have the new trans in place with the heavy-duty clutch. The clutch is a Luk 05-901. I can't get the clutch to engage-there's about half of the pedal travel before engagement. Did I use the wrong clutch, or is there something else I should check?
 
I have been using the Pro Honda 80/85 powersports gear oil in my ax15. It is a non Sulphur GL3 type oil. A little bit easier for me to find and cheaper than red line. Pro Honda oils are some of the best.

Was the friction disc put in the correct way?
 
When I did the AX15 I replaced the transfer case linkage with a cable shifter and I did a short shift kit.. Savvy and B&M respectively. LUK clutch kit. Mopar ToB. Mopar clutch slave and MC.

I still have half of the Novak transmission mount (I think) and an unused reverse light pigtail if anyone wants either...
 
I have the new trans in place with the heavy-duty clutch. The clutch is a Luk 05-901. I can't get the clutch to engage-there's about half of the pedal travel before engagement. Did I use the wrong clutch, or is there something else I should check? Just bumping this up to get some fresh perspectives
 
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I wonder if the Mopar clutch master/slave needs bled. Does it look like you have full movement on the lever on the side of the transmission?

I can shoot a video of mine for reference later today if that would help.

When you installed the clutch it was clearly labeled which side goes to the engine and you followed those markings?

Have any pictures of how you installed the TOB and clip?

IMG20260615101159.webp


-Mac
 
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I wonder if the Mopar clutch master/slave needs bled. Does it look like you have full movement on the lever on the side of the transmission?

I can shoot a video of mine for reference later today if that would help.

When you installed the clutch it was clearly labeled which side goes to the engine and you followed those markings?

Have any pictures of how you installed the TOB and clip?

View attachment 699445

-Mac
Thanks Mac. Your photo shows exactly how I installed the TOB and the fork with a new clip spring. I pulled the slave cylinder and double checked with a scope that it's still installed correctly. I installed the raised side of the plate with the springs towards the transmission. I did bleed the slave twice, and i checked it is installed correctly. I am not enthusiastic at all about pulling this back apart, but I guess there's no choice.
 
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Thanks Mac and everyone=problem solved and she's back on the road. I pulled the trans off the block and checked that I had installed everything correctly-I had. Turns out the 29-years-old plastic clutch master/slave couldn't hang with the new HD clutch. Installed a new pre-bled master/slave from CM and that did the trick. The new unit is metal on both ends and seemingly very sturdy (we'll see if it lasts 29 years). Took about 30 minutes or so, once I figured out the clutch safety switch. Altogether, the old bird now drives almost like new-so quietly that it makes me nervous now that I can hear everything else. I climbed underneath this morning and checked the torque on every bolt in sight and quite a few that are not. The Sahara side steps were quite loose so I blue thread-locked them.
Thanks again men
 
Neither here nor there at this point but "lost all gears but fourth" sounds like a stripped input shaft gear. Was it low on oil, by chance?
 
Yeah welcome to shade tree mechanic PTSD.

Never a bad time to check torque values on all your suspension bolts.

-Mac

Agreed-I went through it all and paint marked all the bolts I touched. New question: what should I do with the core of the old trans?