Recent content by hear

The good news is that the TCC lockup runs on a fused circuit, so you can just pull the fuse to defeat the lockup. The bad news is that same fuse contols all the shift solenoids, so it may not give you exactly what you are looking for. I think your only real option is to cut the wire from the...

I'm pretty sure I have the CX, but I think it's great regardless. I've used several different devices, from cheap elm327 to the expensive BlueDriver, and my OBDLink is hands down the best. Maybe it's just the software in the app, but whatever the root cause they all seem to be inferior.

I know how to do that, yours are really uniform and look more like you have a workflow that will copy a single page 100%.

Actually got out in the mess for the first time since Friday, and had the 17yr old drive the jeep around to get a feel for how to actually drive in this stuff. For those not in the south, the general strategy is just wait for it to melt, but this storm was different and it is not melting at...

@CharlesHS you're always johnny on the spot with the diagrams, but how are you doing the screen grab? I looks like you get the full page, like, you're not doing a drag across screen grab. How are you doing that?

I will in a pinch, but they don't always come out in one piece, and since metal fatigue is real and I normally have 100+ on hand in several sizes that will work, I just grab a new one.

Harbor Freight has a box of assorted cotter pin styles that I keep on hand. I try to use the ones that come with the parts, but sometimes you buy a new jeep and want to swap steering components so you have to source your own cotter pins. You know, or like whatever.

I listed my rusty non-running 79 CJ7 on marketplace for way more than it should have gone for. I got 150 replies in an hour, I replied to each one under the assumption that 90% would be people who were never going to follow up beyond the initial "Hello, is this still available?" But I also...

I had the same issue, but mine was a result of not using the correct mounting holes after I had removed it. Obviously that's not your issue. I don't know why it would be temperature dependent, but I'm wondering about your motor mounts & transmission mount.

Remember:

I would go with only 2 bolts, but I woudn't go hard & fast without the front latches. Ratchet strap is a pretty good plan, although you'll have to Bo Duke it to ingress/egress. You have a plan for replacing the latches?

Bro ain't been here since July of '23. Start a new thread with your specifics.

I used a Hayden attached to the radiator support, and plumbed it after the trans cooler in the radiator. Dropped my temps by ~50F. We were just discussing all this in another thread, but put the gauge in before the cooler if possible in order to know (a) if a cooler is necessary and (b) to...

Most temp gauges will come with the sending unit. I used a Glowshift and have had ZERO issues with it. They don't have amazingly steller reviews, but I didn't want to pay Autometer prices and it seemed like a lot of the problems are more around a crappy install/wiring job.

I spent WAY too long debugging some silly python today, all because I was checking for `if __name__ == '__main_': (note the missing dunder after main). That took forever to uncover. I couldn't figure out why it wasn't even logging. Turns out it wasn't ever even running.