Recent content by hear

Discs or drums? For drums, I thought the SOP was to flip the plate over when re-installing because it slightly deforms when it's torqued down, compressing the seal ever so slightly. Flipping it over allows for the plate to be re-deformed. I think, or something, and stuff. For disc brakes, I...

Found this, which is what I recall reading when I did mine......and then basically ignored everything because YOLO? But like I said, I had pressure immediately when I started it up. Priming via drill did not work as advertised (it didn't get hard to spin), although I didn't think to check...

Did you lube up the seal lip before installing?

This is the distributor end, looks like a screwdriver. Then the pump has this “receiving” slot. And then I believe the priming “hack” involves removing this plate, but I need to re-find that thread.

I don't remember if you NEED to remove the distributor....I don't think you do. I did, which is why I don't remember if it's required. The oil pump has a slotted shaft at the top which matches with the bottom end of the distributor (looks like a flathead screw driver). Those two parts...

Yeah, mine had 185k, daughters has 240k. The 4.0 is a workhorse, but everything wears out eventually.

There is a special oil pressure sensor socket you can get from the parts store, but other things can work in a pinch. Much has been said about the Mopar sensor vs other brands. I've had this problem with both my 97's. For mine, changing the sensor didn't do anything (I went with a...

If it’s slipping that could cause the increase in temps. If there’s no material in the fluid, it could be that there is a leaky piston seal that is preventing the full “clamp” of the frictions/steels. Or your torque converter could be going bad. Or probably 10 other things. It’s a little...

I should add that for the purposes of this conversation, you should pretend you have an XJ.

Your best bet is probably to visit the NAXJA forum, they will have way more expertise in the AW4 than we will. I’ve rebuilt several of them, but it’s one thing to put the pieces together. It’s a whole nother thing to make a computer control it properly.

This is the pic that would concern me. Cutting out the section as BlueC is definitely the first step. It might get tricky down at the bottom, I'm not sure how the rocker & floor come together. But what I see is more rust through that hole...is there a 2nd piece of metal behind that area...

The shape of your rear diff will positively identify which you have. Although I wonder what the differences are? I wonder if the brake wheel cylinders have a different thread pitch? I supposed the bends could be slightly different but I honestly would've guessed that the axle type didn't...

I have had good luck with Classic Tube & Inline Tube for these sorts of things, although I have not used them for any of my TJ projects.

My understanding is that a broken clockspring isn't going to affect your steering, but can create problems with anything powered through it, and possibly keep your turn signals from canceling.

Since you admitted to being lazy, I’ll also be lazy and just point you toward the FSM & wiring diagrams ins section 8W. 😛 But there is a power, ground, and fuel level signal. The bundle that runs to the back also has the taillight wiring, I believe.