Recent content by MtnRanger160

Appreciate it guys. Sounds logical enough and worth it to just replace.

Same, only one way to change that bad boy out that I know of. Did it about three years ago after smelling antifreeze in the cab (heater core leak). It’s not terrible, just tedious and take your time. I used a local shop to evac the freeon and after the heater core was replaced, they put it right...

BLUF: would you still drive with this front shaft? 4.5” lift w/ savvy short arms. Was In the process of chasing down some minor vibrations. Engine mounts, tranny mount and rear drivetrain were Gucci. I discovered the front driveshaft shows a little abuse. I’ll admit, I did not have the...

This is so close to the truth. Many many hours of sleep lost going down a rabbit hole of what could be and then realize the $$$ and time could spent other ways, on your ride or not. Hopefully the OP has a sweet rig now that’s enjoyable the way they envisioned

Thank you for the reply! There seems to be no shortage of videos on how to do this. Just stay organized and remember where shit goes and it’s doable. Lol. The horn stopped working (fuses are GTG) so I guess that and the AC evap like you mentioned will get done at the same time too.

For the sake starting another thread, looks like you guys already have the answer to this solution. Experiencing the same problem. Heater works really well but smells bad (like antifreeze) and I get a film on the inside of the window by the vent. Definitely a heater core and not something...

4.56 all the way!! I ride my 370 With 33” tires and it does great. Started taking off in 2nd and driving is a lot more enjoyable. I had 3.73 gears when I bought it from the PO and it had no balls at all. Now I’m looking at going 37s so gearing will change for sure.

It’s been getting in the negatives here in Kansas and since then, my ride is acting up again. Now it makes this noise at first until it warms up. I’m thinking maybe it’s a pilot bearing that’s bad (probably what the scratching is) but not sure about this new sound. It shifts just fine and never...

Trying to revive this for some help. Here’s a short video I took. This vehicle has its problems and I’ve figured them out, except this one and an oil leak that may be the RMS...it’s eluding me and I can’t figure it out. I attempted to take of the housing cover but it didn’t seem like it was...

How low of speed? I'm dealing with this as well but found my issues was the rear driveshaft centering ball was trashed. What @AndyG recommended by taking the rear DS off and moving to 4H is what I did to settle that thought. There was no spring and needle bearings were gone. New parts on the...

You can also get thicker gears too which help you pass that carrier split. I had 4.56 gears put in with a 30/44 with thicker gears

Anyone know how much free play there should be on the transfer case output (I think that's what it is). My backlash in the rear was right at .005 but where the output shaft is it definitely rotates about 15 degrees both ways. Is this normal? Probably easier for me to post a video...don't...

thanks! I'll measure it for sure the next time I get after it.

the u-joint I pulled out spilled black dust everywhere and not a single needle bearing or grease came out from one of the cups. But for sure, I didn't see any spring in the rear drive centering ball but there was some loose needle bearings, not as many as I thought there would've been.

They're basically right in line with the pinions, maybe .5 to 1 degree lower. 6-speed manual and running all rubber bushings. Replaced all body mount bushings 2k ago. Fluids are all legit, I was worried about the transfer case because I never checked it before but i popped my finger in the...