Recent content by redjin

There is no seal or oring that I saw in 32rh diagrams. Ultimately, I took the locknut off the adjustment screw, covered the bottom of it in RTV, and replaced/tightened back down. 6 months later and it’s still dry. Doing deep decades old forum dives, I never found a satisfactory answer for the...

I just did this project on my my TJ. Years of sitting in the sun and neglect. Paint on the hood was the worst, very rough feeling to the touch. I am no expert by any means here but this is what I did. I bought a cheap-o orbital buffer, scratch and swirl remover, a clay bar, quick detailer, and...

Welp, I think I have my answer. I cleaned the adjustment screw yesterday, no traces of visible ATF were left. Without driving it, I looked at it this morning and found this nice weep of ATF back on the adjustment screw.

I was able to snug up the coolant line about 1/8 of a turn before I got uncomfortable putting more torque on it. I cleaned off the area and will recheck in a couple of days. Reading more about the adjustment screw if it is indeed leaking - seems you would back off the locknut, back out the...

I was looking under my jeep today and noticed a few of the trans pan bolt heads looked they were moistened with ATF. After searching around I found this bolt on the side of the case that seems to be the source of a slow leak. Looking at diagrams and FSM, nothing obvious jumped out at me as to...

I’ve had an AA SYE with a TW DS for ~5 years now, zero problems.

That looks like the petcock valve. It allow you to drain your radiator by unscrewing it. I do not know where to find that specific one as there are different valve designs.

I have 33x12.5, considering going to 33x10.5. Real dumb question, will I need different wheels or will the 10.5 fit no problem?

If I recall correctly, the JKS bracket I installed on my 35 had similar gaps, it wasn’t a completely flush fit out of the box. However, torquing the bolts down to spec sucked the JKS bracket flush and tight to the stock one. However, I don’t think my stock bracket had that hump in it.

I could be mistaken but it could just be an optical illusion from bad photo angles. The rock jocks pic make it look straight just by the angle the pics were taken. But if look closely at how the light reflections change, it would appear it has the same bends.

Stick with the 1”. As it says in the description, 2” is for extreme modifications. You want to match your MML height to your body lift height.

I had a leak in my 32rh a couple years ago that looked like it was the pan leaking. Redid the pan but still came back. Turns out it was the selector shaft seal leaking down making the pan look like the culprit. Something to look closely at if resealing the pan doesn’t fix it.

That sucks. Sorry bud.

Pics? What’s blown on it?

Just curious, what machine shop are you using?