Recent content by rraulston

285s (33) on JK wheels. 3" lift with Bilstein's. Will slightly rub on extreme flexing, but I mostly do desert trails and such. I can do 80 MPH all day long on the highway.

It was like $110. They have to machine it to fit the 241s...

I am interested in a hub conversion. Can you give me some details like who you went with etc.??! Thanks!!!!

Aaaand I'm back.... With news.... For the last several months, I have been driving with the front drive shaft disconnected. I got to where I could re-install it in about 5 minutes so it wasn't a big deal. A few posts earlier I indicated the new Tom Woods drive shaft had runout. I dove back into...

OK so I used my dial indicator to check runout. At the differential I have .002. in the middle I have .004 and on the transfer end I have .015. I removed the driveshaft and cant find out why there is .015. Its a brand new Tom Woods Driveshaft. My old drive shaft vibrated as well. My next step is...

ok so we are back at it. Took a little break to build an off-road trailer. Came out quite nice, anyways, I removed the new front drive shaft and the vibrations are gone. I picked up a dial indicator and mount today and will check the runout. By eye, it looks like the yolk on the transfer case is...

So next weekend, I am going to put it up on my car lift and in 4wd and run it. Ill do a video. Yolk runout is what I will be looking for. I dont know if I can spin it up to 55mph in 4wd. Thats where it starts....

Well.............................................................................. The new front drive shaft did not fix the problem. WTF.... Remove the front and it all 100% goes away. Put the new one (or the old freshly rebuilt one) on and its back. What the hell does that mean?? Could warped...

You are raining on my parade!!! The new one will be installed on Friday and I will let you know!!

something is way off. You need to do this but rotate the assembly by hand. Its hard to tell how much of the run out is actual vs. needle bounce. Also the indicator should be perpendicular to the shaft, not at an angle. It appears the shaft has a bit of wobble.... Interesting...

You had your rear rebalanced like my front. What are the chances you need a new rear driveshaft?? Just sayin!!

When I was checking the rear on mine, I jacked it up and ran the jeep up to 80. Vibrated a bit. Then I let it idle at about 25 MPH and saw my right side tire/rim wobble....axel shaft bent. Replaced. Still vibrated. rebalanced tires. New drive shaft. Every little thing helped but didn't fix the...

WOW....so here we go.... I remember when I was 17 and couldn't get my VW Baja Bug to run. New points and condenser on and on.... 3 weeks and all local top notch mechanics couldn't either. Put ANOTHER condenser on and it fired right up. Yep, new parts can be bad out of the box.. Fast forward to...

ok, ill do that today, also, is there a reason I cant remove the front axels and drive it? The front wheel bearings are isolated right?, maybe stuff a tight rag in each tube? I am putting new u joints in a spare set a guy gave me incase mine are bent....

2005 TJ Rubicon, 3" lift, 285/70-17 tires Starting with the front: straightened front Rubi 44 diff, new seals new axel u-joints. front driveshaft rebuilt and balanced. .004 runout. rebuilt trans rebuilt engine rebuilt transfer case (all three less that 500 miles) new wheel bearings Rear: New...