Recent content by Sean B

It would be odd but you never know. Always easier to figure something out if a problem happens after you do something. I found a pic of one that has a double cardan joint.

I explained this wrong, they need to be aligned, so the forces cancel each other out. I had to look at one to visualize it. I attached a pic.

One thing to check is to make sure the drive shaft is properly phased. If take the slip yoke apart is is possible to put it back together with the two yokes out of phase. The yoke in each end need to be exactly 90 degrees offset so that they each cancel each other out. If one end is exactly...

I agree, mine was rough country and had the same bracket. I removed the bracket and drop pitman arm and replaced with Rockjock and OE pitman arm. There is the issue of the two large holes in the frame. I ended up putting a plate over the holes on both sides of the frame to reinforce the area.

I ended up pulling them quick, 1/2 difference in length. Since I took it apart to check of course I had them right. Only time I would come out on the right side of 50%.

Now I feel dumb. I recently did my seals and bearings. I had both axels on bench and never noticed they were different lengths. Is there any viable clue or noticeable end play that would show if I got luck any put them back in the proper side. I don’t really want to pull to check if I don’t...

That makes sense, I didn’t know the lower lift bar would work with larger lifts. I was not a fan of the 4-6 inch bar, the issue was really with the bracket and drop pitman arm more than the actual bar from my experience.

I previously had their bar which necessitated their drop/relocation bracket that bolts to the stock bracket and requires some 15/16 holes be drilled in the frame. I was not a fan. Dropping the bar also seems to require their drop pitman arm which tends to mess up geometry. Are you running the...

Does this seem right, just seems loose to me. Measuring bolt and sleeve there is .057 clearance?

Thanks, without measuring there is probably .060-.070 slop between the sleeve and the shoulder bolt. That does make sense that with the shoulder bolt it could crush down on the sleeve and lock it up. It just seemed like a sloppy fit and where I don’t have the OE bolts I was nit sure where my...

So I’m having some difficulty sorting this out. I am attempting to install my rockjock extended links in the rear. I had some previous extended links in the Jeep and the factory hardware is missing. I got a set of the shoulder bolts from Region off-road that say they are the mopar 6503726...

Sometimes after changing several times enough old silicone can get in the bottom of the hole that when combine with a little new silicone the bolt bottoms out and interferes with getting it as tight as it should be. It will feel tight but a little squishy if that makes sense. Not a bad idea to...

Figured it out, they are supposed to be a special flange bolt. Looks like will need to get 4!

I ended up replacing mine but it was probably worse than yours. If you choose to replace I used the Barnes 4x4 mount. The Mount was nice but the directions are a bit wonky. They tell you to set the angle off of the back of the mount and use the same angle on both sides. The 92 degree angle...

Hey there. Working on finishing up my Savvy/Rockjock lift. I got to the rear sway bar links. I am using the stock bar and the Rockjock extended links. My question is the directions say to use the stock hardware but the sizes don’t match up. The ID of the links is for a 14MM or a 9/16. The...