Recent content by Sean B

I got the kit that is front and rear with the gears and install kits, was about $675 total I think.

For the front, they do. Only issue with the kit I found was lack of a variety of shims to set pinion preload, you could not change by .001, it was like .003 gaps

I believe that is what I hit, the issue ai had was really just with the pinion preload shims. Revolution master install gave plenty of shims for the carrier to get backlash and preload dialed in. One thing I didn’t know prior to purchase is revolution gives a 10% military/first responder...

Seems to very positive reviews for revolution gears and I had very good results with them. The set up kit is not great as far as shims, the koyo bearings are good. I highly recommend their gears and just get some extra shims. If using stock rubicon locker ai believe only option for carrier...

You need to drill out the clevite bushings and several of the frame mounts to match the bolt diameter. I was going to do the Johnny joints on the front uppers also but several people much more knowledgeable than me made arguments against it, especially for highway use. They contention is that...

I got pinion shims from east coast gear but the kit didn’t have the larger shims that go outside the carrier bearings. There were quite a few of those in the install kit from revolution though.

I second this, I tried to take the easy route and got an already machined setup race while ordering shims. Unfortunately it was undersize and just dropped into the housing and gave inconsistent patterns. Ending up making my own. Wasted time and money.

I watched your video and saw you orientated them up, after nit liking then pointing out like the OE setup, I might try that.

When you have a chance that would be great.

I tried that, they don’t hit or bind, probably good, just not loving how they are near shock mount.

Thanks, I unfortunately didn’t have the stock ones to compare to.

I feel silly posting this but I’m installing new hoses while doing my big brake install. It does not look right to me as it’s hitting the shock mount area of the front axel but I believe it is right. I’m using the doorman extended hoses and my previous ones were some beat up braided so I don’t...

Try a cold chisel and a hammer. Put the chisel on the right side of the nut, and hammer the nut loose, the shock of the hammer strikes will help to jar it loose. Worst case you will eventually split the nut and it will come loose.

You should be fine changing back to a stock pitman arm and using the stock drag link and tie rod, just adjust it for toe and steering wheel centered. I did the same conversion with 4” lift and worked fine.

I believe the discrepancy with the snap rings is that the factory driveshaft yoke uses an injected resin and a grove inside the yoke to hold the caps in. You heat up the yoke and melt the resin to remove then use the clips on the replacement joint.