Recent content by Tinkerer

It matters a lot to those coming towards you. Aiming is a bear if there isn't, either you blind oncoming traffic, which could come into your lane or there isn't enough light down the road to see for the speeds being driven.

Sure sounds wrong to me. High or main beam should be physically higher than low or dip beam. Adding light near the Jeep just decreases long distance visibility due to pupillary response. I would check the beam pattern against a wall. Low or dip should have a wide beam with a definite cut off at...

It seems so, around ½" too narrow based on specs. No dimension drawings though. Two options, modify the brackets I have or relocate second battery to the rear. For now, not an issue. For newer models after the TJ, there are brackets out there for dual odyssey etc.

I feel her pain. I'm not sure I could reach the pedals if I raised the seat and I can't get much closer. Shifter so far isn't an issue, even with a small BL.

Thanks. I will measure, but I expect that any group 34 should fit and that is the size and terminal layout I am using now. Odyssey is more available where I am in Canada. From what I read so far, lithium isn't very tolerant of cold. One Canadian manufacturer even builds one with self heating...

They are too stupid to unzip? I've had to do that once when I accidentally locked my keys in. Climb in through the window. I'm.glad nobody had a camera!

Yes, my first Optima lasted probably 10 years, but more recent ones much less it seems. Something isn't the same. I would need something with the same case dimensions to fit the dual.battery setup. Any recommendations?

As you delve into manufacturer sites, the different information for even different batteries from the same manufacturer get confusing. For instance, right from the Optima Q+A for their Yellowtop AGM: " Recommended charging information: Alternator: 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit...

Thanks. I just did a drain (IOD) check as suggested using my Fluke multimeter. At first connection, something kept kicking in that drove it up to around 125mA intermittent (I didn't set peak hold), but after a while, it settled to a constant 37mA, which I tested for about 10 minutes. If the...

Yes, I am aware that voltage output is varied with conditions and that even for a fixed voltage the amps taken by the battery varies. It is an interesting and surprisingly complicated subject to be sure. But it was the half volt or more between what my reader says from the canbus and the...

On doing some further digging along with upgrading wiring again in size and to use terminal blocks, I found that the voltage reported by the PCM is almost a half volt lower than what is at the battery. So I am getting about 14.2 at the battery when it is cool out (18C). As for the alternator...

Thanks for your very complete and helpful posts. I was always told the computer used in 2004 (anything prior to 2005) TJ's was not modifiable, however their site says that it is, just not *what* can be modified. Does anyone know if this tool/software does much on a 2004 computer? That's a lot...

As per my earlier post, at least on my 2004, there were 2 fuses. One inside behind the glovebox and one under hood (27). The year etc would be helpful. The MFS is that big switch on the steering column for signals, lights etc. The wiper one attaches to it. The flasher is under there too. This is...

My 2004 TJ suddenly started buzzing and not working, which quickly deteriorated to no signals or hazards at all. Here is my "journey". 1) checked fuse in glovebox, was fine. 2) checked lights - fine 3) had spare , - changed flasher - no change 4) had spare - tried MFS - no change 5) Noted that...

Hmm, thanks for a jump start... same issue. Was all working with LEDs and trailer lights plugged into the back for "load". Worked for a couple of years, then suddenly flasher buzz and after playing around with MFS and relay, now nothing. I get park lights and if I activate the turn signal with...