32RH Transmission Leak

JacksonH

JacksonH

TJ Enthusiast
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Aug 11, 2020
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101
Location
Hume CA
I have a 2000 4.0 with a 32rh transmission and about 115k miles. I have had a leak for about 6 months now and I've had 2 shop diagnoses it as a bad pan gasket. But the other day I had a shop replace the gasket and refill it, I then drove about 200 miles (to get back to work) and when I stopped for gas my entire underside was covered in fluid. The shop probably overfilled it and I got burped out of the breather tube. I still have a small leak and it looks like it is coming from the front of the trans. I talk to a transmission shop and they said they could replace all the seals for about $1000 or they could basically rebuild the transmission (with warranty) for about $2000. My question is what should I do?
Should I a) drive the jeep and just make sure that my fluid level is always good. b) just have the shop replace all the seals without a warranty. c) have them basically rebuild the transmission and have it come with a warranty. d) manual swap? or e) sell it ( don't want to do this because I love my jeep way too much).
 
your 32RH doesn't have a breather tube, so if they told you that they lied. The breather is just a hole behind the torque converter.

There are only a few places a 32RH can leak from, and they all are relatively easy fixes and all of them make you think the gasket is leaking. The best advice I can give you before you spend any money is to get under there and wipe it all down bone dry. start up high by the cooler lines, and work your way down & around. Once it's dry & clean, stuff paper towels around everything. Come back overnight and see what paper towels have atf on them, and you'll know where to start.
 
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hear said:
your 32RH doesn't have a breather tube, so if they told you that they lied. The breather is just a hole behind the torque converter.

There are only a few places a 32RH can leak from, and they all are relatively easy fixes and all of them make you think the gasket is leaking. The best advice I can give you before you spend any money is to get under there and wipe it all down bone dry. start up high by the cooler lines, and work your way down & around. Once it's dry & clean, stuff paper towels around everything. Come back overnight and see what paper towels have atf on them, and you'll know where to start.
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Thanks for the help
 
hear said:
your 32RH doesn't have a breather tube, so if they told you that they lied. The breather is just a hole behind the torque converter.

There are only a few places a 32RH can leak from, and they all are relatively easy fixes and all of them make you think the gasket is leaking. The best advice I can give you before you spend any money is to get under there and wipe it all down bone dry. start up high by the cooler lines, and work your way down & around. Once it's dry & clean, stuff paper towels around everything. Come back overnight and see what paper towels have atf on them, and you'll know where to start.
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So I tried this and surprisingly I had no leaks. I'm planning on letting the car run and then checking shortly after to see I have any fluid on any of the towels.
 
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Double check your atf level (with the car idling in N, at temperature), it's also possible your fluid level is lower than the leak....although in my experience this is unlikely. Also, do you know what type of fluid they added?
 
hear said:
Double check your atf level (with the car idling in N, at temperature), it's also possible your fluid level is lower than the leak....although in my experience this is unlikely. Also, do you know what type of fluid they added?
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I checked yesterday before wiping it down it the level was at the top of the OK mark. I believe they added ATF +4. Is there an easy way to check the fluid level in the T-case?
 
JacksonH said:
I checked yesterday before wiping it down it the level was at the top of the OK mark. I believe they added ATF +4. Is there an easy way to check the fluid level in the T-case?
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just remove the fill plug (no the drain plug!!) and stick your finger in there. The level should be more or less right at the level of the fill hole.
 
hear said:
just remove the fill plug (no the drain plug!!) and stick your finger in there. The level should be more or less right at the level of the fill hole.
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T-case fluid is absolutely full. I'm planning on taking it on a short drive and seeing if that causes the leak.
 
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hear said:
just remove the fill plug (no the drain plug!!) and stick your finger in there. The level should be more or less right at the level of the fill hole.
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Looks like I'm leaking from the front of the transmission, but it only leaks after driving then it stops.

CDE748AB-73E0-490A-B293-C426748B8E17.jpeg
 
Mmmmm…wish I could help. Hopefully a bump to the top will get some more eyes on your problem.
 
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hard to tell what you're showing us, but is the only wet spot at the very bottom of the bell housing? The pan looks wet, too.
 
hear said:
hard to tell what you're showing us, but is the only wet spot at the very bottom of the bell housing? The pan looks wet, too.
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It looks like the only wet spot is the bottom of the bell housing.
 
hardtailpan said:
I can't tell from the pic but you might be looking at a front seal leak. I'd pull the flexplate cover and see if the inside of the bellhousing is all goopy
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Agree. If it's wet in there, then it's either the pump gasket and/or seal (o-ring), or possibly the torque converter seal. The pump gasket & seal aren't bad to replace....once you've got the entire transmission out already. I can't speak to the torque converter repair, but I'd bet it's similar to the pump repairs since it's all in the pump body.
 
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Might be a little late but mine looked just like this and ended up being the seal around the shifter input shaft and park/neutral safety switch. Was a fkn PITA to try and replace the seal but a very common spot to leak. Also try snuging down the cooler lines. My safety switch was actually leaking from tge inside not the threads.
 
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