MML spacer block problem

COYOTE83

COYOTE83

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
May 23, 2021
Messages
182
Location
Georgia
Ok so let me start off by saying I’ve read every thread I could find (maybe I didn’t find the right one) and I’ve watched the rokmen video as well as a few others.

Installing my motor mount spacer block lift and I’m going by the rokmen video. Followed all the steps and got to the part where I’m putting the driver side spacer in. I’ve already bolted the engine bracket back to the engine.

I have a few issues

1. This thing is not lining up at all. It seems like the engine is too far to the rear.

2. How high do I have to jack this thing? It seems like I’m only lifting the suspension at this point but the holes are close to the right height (but I can’t get the motor mount in because the engine is too far rearward preventing the brackets themselves from lining up)

I’ve read several threads saying to use pry bars and someone even recommended a come along. Where are the points on the engine I can pry on and or pull with a come a long. This seems like it should be way easier than it’s turning out to be. I’ve also read someone said they couldn’t believe how high they had to jack it up. It’s seems like I’m at that point. Seems like the engine isn’t moving, only the suspension. I understand it’s taking weight off of the suspension so naturally it will unload some, am I just not jacking it up high enough?

Pics incoming.
 
COYOTE83 said:
Ok so let me start off by saying I’ve read every thread I could find (maybe I didn’t find the right one) and I’ve watched the rokmen video as well as a few others.

Installing my motor mount spacer block lift and I’m going by the rokmen video. Followed all the steps and got to the part where I’m putting the driver side spacer in. I’ve already bolted the engine bracket back to the engine.

I have a few issues

1. This thing is not lining up at all. It seems like the engine is too far to the rear.

2. How high do I have to jack this thing? It seems like I’m only lifting the suspension at this point but the holes are close to the right height (but I can’t get the motor mount in because the engine is too far rearward preventing the brackets themselves from lining up)

I’ve read several threads saying to use pry bars and someone even recommended a come along. Where are the points on the engine I can pry on and or pull with a come a long. This seems like it should be way easier than it’s turning out to be. I’ve also read someone said they couldn’t believe how high they had to jack it up. It’s seems like I’m at that point. Seems like the engine isn’t moving, only the suspension. I understand it’s taking weight off of the suspension so naturally it will unload some, am I just not jacking it up high enough?

Pics incoming.
Click to expand...
You aren't jacking it up high enough and the other side can't be bolted in, it can only have the bolts started with enough thread engagement so you know they aren't cross threaded. Also, the trans mount has to be loosened so it can let the motor move where it needs to.
 
962D1741-73E8-431F-970B-9C579D49FCE2.jpeg
17CA37D3-9F9E-4758-9F3A-9D4304FA1477.jpeg

Top picture is the front of the driver side motor mount with spacer block underneath. This is where the interference is.
Bottom pic is the rear of the driver side motor mount.
 
COYOTE83 said:
View attachment 324611View attachment 324612
Top picture is the front of the driver side motor mount with spacer block underneath. This is where the interference is.
Bottom pic is the rear of the driver side motor mount.
Click to expand...
You have to get it high enough that you can drop the mount in from the top, work it down into place, get the bolt through it and then get it lined up on the frame mount.
 
mrblaine said:
You aren't jacking it up high enough and the other side can't be bolted in, it can only have the bolts started with enough thread engagement so you know they aren't cross threaded. Also, the trans mount has to be loosened so it can let the motor move where it needs to.
Click to expand...
Thanks Blaine. I’ve already taken the transmission mount bolts out. First thing. I loosened the passenger side bolts all the way just before they came off. I think I just need to keep cranking on this jack. But I’ve never done motor mounts before so I’m leery that I’ll mess something up.
 
The rokmen video said to REMOVE all the bolts from the passenger side. I read on here NOT to. So I didn’t. At first. Then stupidly after fighting with it for a while I removed the passenger side frame mount bolts and left only the through bolt in very loose. Hopefully it only causes an inconvenience lining it back up.
 
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Ok let me see if I can describe these pics well enough to make sense. The top pic is if I line the holes up. BUT to achieve the through bolt holes lining up there is a gap underneath at least half an inch and the bracket bolts are no where close to lining up
62EB1C03-F1D4-4CA6-B984-01BD56D28A47.jpeg


The bottom pic is what i get if I put the spacer block flush on the frame bracket. To achieve this I have to slide the spacer forward to where the male/female adapter stud is hanging off of the edge of the frame bracket.

I’m trying hard not to be daft and to reason this problem out, but I have plenty of height. I’m thinking I may need to pry the engine forward?
 
For clarity the passenger side is still the stock motor mount without a spacer block yet. The rokmen video and most threads said to loosen or take out the passenger side bolts and install the spacer on the driver side first and then move to the passenger side.
 
COYOTE83 said:
For clarity the passenger side is still the stock motor mount without a spacer block yet. The rokmen video and most threads said to loosen or take out the passenger side bolts and install the spacer on the driver side first and then move to the passenger side.
Click to expand...
No, they both have to be done at the same time.
 
From underneath with the spacer bolt threads started. The stud hole won’t line up because the frame bracket is contacting the spacer
C616B635-A1D2-4500-8B95-A847A3A7EEA4.jpeg
 
This is probably something I’ve overlooked or misunderstood on my part because in theory it’s simple.
 
Ah wait a second. I think I do need to remove the passenger side. Because with it still attached the engine is pivoting on the passenger side raising the driver side and passenger side at different levels causing it to tilt backwards on the driver side?
Is this logical?
 
COYOTE83 said:
Ah wait a second. I think I do need to remove the passenger side. Because with it still attached the engine is pivoting on the passenger side raising the driver side and passenger side at different levels causing it to tilt backwards on the driver side?
Is this logical?
Click to expand...
Yes and the distance between them is also changing.
 
That makes sense now that I look at it. I can understand how that’s happening when I look at it now but had a hard time describing it in my last post.
Thanks man. I’m about to pull the passenger mount all the way out and try again.
Thanks!
 
Well. That only made it worse. Lol. No I see why people recommend leaving the passenger side in. Hmm. Back to the ol drawing board.
I’m really lost now. I feel like I may have just put myself out of commission even longer. Lol
 
I’ll figure it out somehow. It may take a few days and some help and some pry bars and a come a long and chain fall and some redneck engineering. It shifted the engine back a full inch or more when I removed both motor mounts.
 
I don’t see any easy way to do this now. I really screwed myself. Hmm. Camping trip with the kids cancelled. Shit.
I really hope I didn’t just misunderstand you when you said they both have to be done at the same time. I took that as meaning take the passenger side out also
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