Trying to figure out Johnny joints on the axle side

Irun

A vicious cycle of doing, undoing, and re-doing!
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Am I using the correct part number for the passenger side?

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I found this picture that @mrblaine posted in another thread I had, but all I can see is one side.

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I pressed a diff side joint through a sleave. Avoid my mistake and grind the lip down on the outer flange and insert the joint like Blaine did. Much cleaner that way.
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I pressed a diff side joint through a sleave. Avoid my mistake and grind the lip down on the outer flange and insert the joint like Blaine did. Much cleaner that way.,

I looked at the picture Blaine posted and it doesn't look like it was machined to sit inside. It looks like it was pressed in, welded where the lip contacts the stock mount, then reinforced with a piece to box the stock bracket. Somewhere in that process the inward part of the JJ was welded to the bracket. :unsure:
 
In your first pic, I believe you have to grind down that lip flat with the bracket on n both sides
It looks like a stock bushing will go back in for the time being. In order to do this correctly, the entire axle will need to be removed. There's no way I'm going to try and do the welding needed here with the axle in the Jeep. I have all the parts for a 5.13 regear, including a HP30 housing, so I'll likely do it then!
 
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It looks like a stock bushing will go back in for the time being. In order to do this correctly, the entire axle will need to be removed. There's no way I'm going to try and do the welding needed here with the axle in the Jeep. I have all the parts for a 5.13 regear, including a HP30 housing, so I'll likely do it then!

Exactly what I'm doing now. Have the HP30 stripped. Have the 5.13r waiting on the arb and bearings that I just ordered today. Going to grab a triangle reinforcement lower control arm brackets from Barnes and put it all back together then swap the whole thing in without the driveshaft till I get the rear regeared.
 
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I used this kit, cut the top of the stock mount and weld the new one in. I did box it mainly for looks. I did it with the axle out but if your steering was disconnected it would not be too hard to do in the vehicle. The axle is pretty simple to remove only like 15 bolts.

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Sometimes the obvious is right in front of you. This is definitely a job to do with the whole assembly removed!

I did mine in the rig. It just makes a couple of the welds a bit more awkard.
 
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Not having to deal with any of this is exactly why I used an early HP30 CAD axle instead of looking around for a non CAD. The passenger uca joint is cast into the cad housing so installing the JJ is identical to doing the driver side.
 
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Not having to deal with any of this is exactly why I used an early HP30 CAD axle instead of looking around for a non CAD. The passenger uca joint is cast into the cad housing so installing the JJ is identical to doing the driver side.

Seems like the CAD axle comes with it's own set of challenges though, right?
 
Seems like the CAD axle comes with it's own set of challenges though, right?

Easy in comparison. A TJ axle shaft and an aluminum sheet for a block off plate...the hardest part was finding the right seal for the inside of the passenger axle tube. They changed the tube thickness at one point so there's two different seals that might fit. I think it's ecgs that sells both of them, but with a little research the NAPA numbers are out there.
 
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