1999 TJ has a fluttering / clacking sound in drive and sometimes in park

Well, I'm attempting to replace the torque converter and flexplate on my own, but I'm in over my head. I began removing the crossmember believing it was a just a protective skid plate, but that doesn't seem to be the case. As I began removing bolts from one side, a subtle sighing sound from somewhere (transmission?)

The vehicle's not yet on jack stands and the transmission is not supported by a floor/transmission jack. I'm going to need to step back and start over. I'm attempting to bolt back in place the crossmember, but am having difficulty aligning the holes. Currently supporting that side of the crossmember with my jack.

There's a decent how-to video about removing an automatic transmission I just now found. He had the transmission supported before removing the crossmember. Hope I didn't majorly screw up! Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
You need to have the jeep on jack stands to give you the room to remove transmission (I could get away without lifting the jeep due to 35's and 4" lift). You then need to get a floor jack with a short piece of 2"x6" under the oil pan to spread the load out, followed by lifting up on the jack enough to get the other three bolts out of skid plate/crossmember. You also need to remove the four nuts in skid plate that hold the transmission isolator in place but not until you get the skid back to somewhere close to level. You'll want to get/rent a tranny jack since you've never done this before and although you can muscle them out, you'd be better served with a tranny jack.
Once you start this process there's no moving it until you're done so make sure you have all your ducks in a row.

Take your time, use your head and be safe!
 
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flyinfish said:
You need to have the jeep on jack stands to give you the room to remove transmission (I could get away without lifting the jeep due to 35's and 4" lift). You then need to get a floor jack with a short piece of 2"x6" under the oil pan to spread the load out, followed by lifting up on the jack enough to get the other three bolts out of skid plate/crossmember. You also need to remove the four nuts in skid plate that hold the transmission isolator in place but not until you get the skid back to somewhere close to level. You'll want to get/rent a tranny jack since you've never done this before and although you can muscle them out, you'd be better served with a tranny jack.
Once you start this process there's no moving it until you're done so make sure you have all your ducks in a row.

Take your time, use your head and be safe!
Click to expand...

Thank for the reply. I managed secure the crossmember back in place, but am concerned about the hissing I heard. I'm hesitant to start the vehicle and may just tow it to a transmission shop and have them do the repairs if not too costly.
 
If you haven't done so already, download the factory service manual for your jeep. You stated it was a 1999 and the transmission for a 1999 6cyl. is a 32RH and if it's a 4cyl. it's a 30RH.
The transmission removal for both is on 21-97 in the manual

Here's the thread with all the manuals:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ice-manuals-fsm-technical-documentation.4618/

If the trans drops too far, the fan can hit the radiator shroud. How many inches did the skid plate drop away from the frame?
I'm not sure what you heard but look for anything obvious front and back, no fluid anywhere and you should be fine.
 
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flyinfish said:
If you haven't done so already, download the factory service manual for your jeep. You stated it was a 1999 and the transmission for a 1999 6cyl. is a 32RH and if it's a 4cyl. it's a 30RH.
The transmission removal for both is on 21-97 in the manual

Here's the thread with all the manuals:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ice-manuals-fsm-technical-documentation.4618/

If the trans drops too far, the fan can hit the radiator shroud. How many inches did the skid plate drop away from the frame?
I'm not sure what you heard but look for anything obvious front and back, no fluid anywhere and you should be fine.
Click to expand...

Wow, Thank you for the link! What a nice, pinned resource thread with all of those PDFs. Incredible.
 
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Okay, It's underway. going to lower the transmission tomorrow. In the meantime, where's the best place to order a flexplate and torque converter? It appears Napa is able to secure parts and have them arrive as early as tomorrow. There has been some minute leakage from the housing and plate where I can access the flex plate, so something's leaking. Main seal and what else could be a culprit? Thanks in advance
 
H_E_H said:
Okay, It's underway. going to lower the transmission tomorrow. In the meantime, where's the best place to order a flexplate and torque converter? It appears Napa is able to secure parts and have them arrive as early as tomorrow. There has been some minute leakage from the housing and plate where I can access the flex plate, so something's leaking. Main seal and what else could be a culprit? Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

That leak that you're referencing is the rear main seal and is common on the TJ 4.0L. You'll have to wait to do that until you finish the tranny R&R because you'll have to drop the oil pan to do it.

Napa parts would be fine.
 
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How's she look, doc? Concerning?

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How many thousand miles are on your tranny? It looks like it's been in need of a flush and probably missed a couple fluid and filter changes.
There's some friction material in the pan and the magnet does have some material on it. It doesn't appear that the fluid is burnt but smelling the fluid is the best way tell you if it's burnt.

At this point you're going to clean the pan and magnet spotless and get rid of all the foreign material so it doesn't travel through the transmission and cause any damage. When you get done reinstalling the tranny I'd recommend getting it flushed and a fresh trans filter. There's a thread that shows you how to do it yourself or you could take it to have it done. ('ll find the thread) No doubt you have some wear but you didn't have any problems with the transmission before, so I'd run it until you inevitably will need to rebuild it or replace it.
 
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flyinfish said:
How many thousand miles are on your tranny? It looks like it's been in need of a flush and probably missed a couple fluid and filter changes.
There's some friction material in the pan and the magnet does have some material on it. It doesn't appear that the fluid is burnt but smelling the fluid is the best way tell you if it's burnt.

At this point you're going to clean the pan and magnet spotless and get rid of all the foreign material so it doesn't travel through the transmission and cause any damage. When you get done reinstalling the tranny I'd recommend getting it flushed and a fresh trans filter. There's a thread that shows you how to do it yourself or you could take it to have it done. ('ll find the thread) No doubt you have some wear but you didn't have any problems with the transmission before, so I'd run it until you inevitably will need to rebuild it or replace it.
Click to expand...

188K miles on this TJ. Fluid doesn't smell burnt. The pan and magnet are cleaned up. I probably need to wash the bolts and washers, correct? sounds as if they'll need to be torqued to a specific amount. Need to purchase a new gasket and filter. Thanks for the help!

Hey, I'm looking over the underside and realize my crossmember will slightly cover the transmission pan. So when the transmission is ready for reinstall, I'll need to get it attached, supported and then fill with some transmission fluid in order to check my bolts for leaks, correct?

Also, I just drained the transfer case. When screwing in the transfer case drain plug, it met with some resistance. I tightened it enough, yet the top of the plug is not as flush with the transfer case surface as it was when I removed it. Any concern there? I plan to keep an eye on it when I get transmission fluid back in the vehicle.

Thanks again, flyinfish
 
H_E_H said:
188K miles on this TJ. Fluid doesn't smell burnt. The pan and magnet are cleaned up. I probably need to wash the bolts and washers, correct? sounds as if they'll need to be torqued to a specific amount. Need to purchase a new gasket and filter. Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
The bolts don't have to be cleaned but I sure would. Since you don't have a parts washer, I'd put all the bolts in a shallow tub and use a solvent cleaner or even a water based degreaser solution will work. You may have to work a little harder at it but a toothbrush might be your friend for anything heavy. Let them soak is probably the best advice I could give you.

Secondly Yes the bolts need to be torqued to a specific amount which I'll have to look up that spec. The bolts thread into aluminum so you don't want to overtighten and end up with other problems.
H_E_H said:
Hey, I'm looking over the underside and realize my crossmember will slightly cover the transmission pan. So when the transmission is ready for reinstall, I'll need to get it attached, supported and then fill with some transmission fluid in order to check my bolts for leaks, correct?
Click to expand...
While the tranny is still supported by the jack, you can install the filter and pan. Torque to specs and don't bother trying to fill the pan with fluid, you'll do that through the fill tube. You can install the crossmember once you get everything buttoned up and check for leaks after you fill making sure to shift into drive and reverse so the fluids move throughout the valve body and transmission. Try not to overfill and check fluid level after hot. Remember to only use ATF+4 for the transmission!
H_E_H said:
Also, I just drained the transfer case. When screwing in the transfer case drain plug, it met with some resistance. I tightened it enough, yet the top of the plug is not as flush with the transfer case surface as it was when I removed it. Any concern there? I plan to keep an eye on it when I get transmission fluid back in the vehicle.

Thanks again, flyinfish
Click to expand...
The plug on the transfer case is only there to plug a hole and nothing more. Tighten the plug enough to be tight and call it a day. DON'T try and tighten to make flush with case.


Lastly 188k miles is getting up there on the life of the tranny so keep that in mind that at some point you'll need to have the tranny rebuilt or replaced. I'm not saying you can't get more mileage out of it but something to keep in mind.
 
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A few important items to follow.

*You should replace the front pump seal, that's what the torque converter hub surface seals against.*

After seal install, double check the torque converter notches and shaft surface for any burrs. Lubricate the converter hub surface and the seal you just installed. You will now carefully install converter into transmission, rotating while holding the nose of the converter. It will go in in steps so when you spin it you'll feel it move inward. The converter will move in about two to three times in steps. You'll know you're seated when one of the torque converters mounting pads is 1/2" back from the face of the transmission bell housing. Take a straight edge across the face of transmission bell housing and measure back to mounting pad with ruler.

The torque spec for the trans pan bolts is 13ft lbs. or 150in lbs. which isn't very much.
Lastly as stated before, when finished add only ATF+4 and shift through all gears followed by letting it warm up to operating temp. The converter holds quite a bit of fluid so you'll need fluid immediately after start up to fill the rest of the torque converter. Check fluid level in neutral running with park brake on. Don't overfill.
 
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flyinfish said:
A few important items to follow.

*You should replace the front pump seal, that's what the torque converter hub surface seals against.*

After seal install, double check the torque converter notches and shaft surface for any burrs. Lubricate the converter hub surface and the seal you just installed. You will now carefully install converter into transmission, rotating while holding the nose of the converter. It will go in in steps so when you spin it you'll feel it move inward. The converter will move in about two to three times in steps. You'll know you're seated when one of the torque converters mounting pads is 1/2" back from the face of the transmission bell housing. Take a straight edge across the face of transmission bell housing and measure back to mounting pad with ruler.

The torque spec for the trans pan bolts is 13ft lbs. or 150in lbs. which isn't very much.
Lastly as stated before, when finished add only ATF+4 and shift through all gears followed by letting it warm up to operating temp. The converter holds quite a bit of fluid so you'll need fluid immediately after start up to fill the rest of the torque converter. Check fluid level in neutral running with park brake on. Don't overfill.
Click to expand...
Flyinfish, I owe you big time for all the assists.

Front pump seal - understood. Thanks.

I did see in the printed install/removal information and diagram concerning the 1/2" from bell housing specification, but was unsure. Thanks for the detailed information. One concern for me - the document mentions/advises temporarily securing the converter with a c-clamp, yet no diagram for insight. I'm not clear on this matter, but once I get the transmission down and have a look at the TC, I'm hoping the c-clamp suggestion is a bit more clear.

I just picked up the torque converter yesterday from the auto store - the thing's heavy!
 
H_E_H said:
Flyinfish, I owe you big time for all the assists.

Front pump seal - understood. Thanks.

I did see in the printed install/removal information and diagram concerning the 1/2" from bell housing specification, but was unsure. Thanks for the detailed information. One concern for me - the document mentions/advises temporarily securing the converter with a c-clamp, yet no diagram for insight. I'm not clear on this matter, but once I get the transmission down and have a look at the TC, I'm hoping the c-clamp suggestion is a bit more clear.

I just picked up the torque converter yesterday from the auto store - the thing's heavy!
Click to expand...

The C-Clamp is so the torque converter doesn't slide out and damage the pump bushing, seal and the converter itself when manipulating it on the tranny jack on it's way to mate up with engine.
You basically want to keep the torque converter from sliding forward and a large c-clamp would be easiest by going over lip of bell housing and clamp against the converter. This method will make it easy to remove when you get the tranny up close. Don't get carried away and over tighten.
 
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four questions regarding removing transfer case and 32RH transmission:

Q1: I did not marker my driveshafts when I removed them Will that be a problem during install?
I've read it's not a critical detail, but there could be issues and I may have to remove, rotate and reinstall a shaft.

Q1: bracket removal affects exhaust pipe?

Q2: shift linkage removal

Q3: cable removal
 
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H_E_H said:
four questions regarding removing transfer case and 32RH transmission:

Q1: I did not marker my driveshafts when I removed them Will that be a problem during install?
I've read it's not a critical detail, but there could be issues and I may have to remove, rotate and reinstall a shaft.

Q1: bracket removal affects exhaust pipe?

Q2: shift linkage removal

Q3: cable removal
Click to expand...

1) If you didn't mark the drive shaft then if it vibrates after you reinstall, then turn 180 degrees.

2) You can remove the exhaust hanger bracket and it will hang by itself. I may sag a half inch but no biggy.

3) The shift linkage is like you showed, remove the bracket on transfer case. It's just a rod that is supported close to each end that all the linkage pivots from. You can also remove the little shift arm from transfer case as you pointed to.

4) The cable removal is not the speedo cable, the speedo cable connects to the transfer case. The cable you show in the last video is your transmission shift cable and you can remove the metal bracket that holds the cable housing but the other end should be able to unclip the end of cable and remove the spring. Don't remove those steel shift arms.
Most of the time you undo a clip at the moving/accuating end of cable and then release it from the bracket by squeezing the plastic ears where it goes through metal bracket.

One thing you should have and that's a line wrench to take the transmissions hydraulic lines off. They can be tight and a open end wrench can strip them. A line wrench looks like a box end wrench with a small gap that allows it just pass over a line and still have five points to remove the fitting.

In a nutshell look at the transmission and transfer case and look at the cables, electrical wires and hydraulic lines. Electrical has plugs to disconnect, cables usually have clips or ways to release the cable from bracketry and hydraulic lines have to be taken apart with a wrench.
They are designed to be removed so bear that in mind.
 
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Back in town and have resumed the removal. Flyinfish, THANK YOU for you input, time and effort. Line wrench set. I'll try to get those today! Thank you

I suspected I wouldn't have to diassamble much in regards to transmission cable and shift linkage. Justin didn't appear to have to do much and I'm terrible with reassembling stuff that appears delicate and adjusted to a certain extent. (I'm terrible when it comes to tune a chainsaw throttle or bike derailers, etc. That transmission cable looks like a prime culprit for such a delicate adjusting!) Thanks.
 
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After much fiddling, cleaning film with the phone camera, I was able to get the clip up and out of the bracket slot! I need to remove one more bolt. I believe it's the one greasy bolt behind the hydraulic lines... So I'm off soon to purchase a line wrench set. Most likely these hydraulic lines plugs are SAE, correct? Thanks!
 
H_E_H said:
After much fiddling, cleaning film with the phone camera, I was able to get the clip up and out of the bracket slot! I need to remove one more bolt. I believe it's the one greasy bolt behind the hydraulic lines... So I'm off soon to purchase a line wrench set. Most likely these hydraulic lines plugs are SAE, correct? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure they're metric on that 32rh tranny and probably 15mm
 
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