How do I replace Dana 30 pinion seal?

JMT

JMT

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I don't want to mess up the pre-load. @bobthetj03 said it was a crush sleeve. From my understanding I have to be really careful here. How do you do it?

Can I mark the bolt, nut, yoke and driveshaft and count the visible threads on the pinion shaft and just reassemble to the original position after changing the seal to maintain the original pre-load?
 
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It is my understanding that you remove the nut with a torque wrench so you know exactly how much it takes to loosen the nut and then when you tighten the nut after replacing he seal; you tighten the nut to the original torque setting and then use an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten the nut to about 5 inch/lbs more than what it was originally tightened.
There are members with more experience in this process; so wait for them to advise you with more details.
 
It would be best to look in the 2006 Service Manual pages 3-41 through 3-43. It outlines the "right" way to replace the Dana 30 pinion seal and get the correct preload on the pinion and correct on the pinion nut.
 
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The torque wrench thing seems suspect. Marking the nut makes sense. Mine leaks a bit and I deal with it because I know screwing it up is expensive and gear oil is cheap. You might clean it up really well and put some high mileage oil around the seal to see if you can do a cheap fix. My rear main leaks too so I'm probably not the best example of best practices. I'll eventually get some work done to the diff and have somebody follow the advice of @Bigfoot-NM and do it the right way.
 
CharlesHS said:
It is my understanding that you remove the nut with a torque wrench so you know exactly how much it takes to loosen the nut and then when you tighten the nut after replacing he seal; you tighten the nut to the original torque setting and then use an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten the nut to about 5 inch/lbs more than what it was originally tightened.
There are members with more experience in this process; so wait for them to advise you with more details.
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I'm sorry, but this is completely wrong.

I think you may be thinking of using an in/lb torque wrench to measure how many in/lbs of preload it takes to spin the pinion and the carrier, then tightening the new nut until you've reached that same preload.

I've never done it that way, it may work, but I would think there'd be more opportunity for error since you're measuring the carrier bearings and the gears meshing at the same time. For something where 10in/lbs is the difference between zero preload and the correct preload on the pinion bearings I would just pull the carrier and do it correctly.

If you can't pull the carrier, I would try this method before the marking the pinion and nut method though
 
Trevlaw said:
I'm sorry, but this is completely wrong.

I think you may be thinking of using an in/lb torque wrench to measure how many in/lbs of preload it takes to spin the pinion and the carrier, then tightening the new nut until you've reached that same preload.

I've never done it that way, it may work, but I would think there'd be more opportunity for error since you're measuring the carrier bearings and the gears meshing at the same time. For something where 10in/lbs is the difference between zero preload and the correct preload on the pinion bearings I would just pull the carrier and do it correctly.

If you can't pull the carrier, I would try this method before the marking the pinion and nut method though
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I talked to a friend that does differential setups for a living and was informed that part of my post was incorrect...
My apologies to the OP for the incorrect information...
 
Procedure from the 2006 manual.
 

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  • 2006 TJ Service Manual - Front Pinion Seal Replacement.pdf
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There is absolutely no reason to replace the crush collar when doing a pinion seal.
remove the front tires, calipers, rotors and front driveshaft.
Take and inch lb torque wrench, the dial type, a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and the correct size pinion nut socket.
record the pinion preload.
Count the number of exposed threads on the pinion. write it down
Remove the pinion nut and replace the seal.
Install the yoke and carefully tighten the pinion nut to 140ft lbs, check your pinion preload.
count the number of exposed threads to make sure you have the same.
Tighten acordingly until you have the desired preload.
The final torque on the pinion nut should be 160 ft lbs.
do not use an air gun, if you go too tight you will have to replace the crush collar.
I've done this literaly a 100 times.
294861892.jpg
 
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williambmac said:
There is absolutely no reason to replace the crush collar when doing a pinion seal.
remove the front tires, calipers, rotors and front driveshaft.
Take and inch lb torque wrench, the dial type, a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and the correct size pinion nut socket.
record the pinion preload.
Count the number of exposed threads on the pinion. write it down
Remove the pinion nut and replace the seal.
Install the yoke and carefully tighten the pinion nut to 140ft lbs, check your pinion preload.
count the number of exposed threads to make sure you have the same.
Tighten acordingly until you have the desired preload.
The final torque on the pinion nut should be 160 ft lbs.
do not use an air gun, if you go too tight you will have to replace the crush collar.
I've done this literaly a 100 times.
View attachment 273027
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I'm in the process now. Thanks for all the help. I'll finish this afternoon.

One question. I checked the pre-load before removing the pinion nut. I recorded teh values in both directions, but I'm not sure that is necessary. Should I just be concerned with the counter clockwise in/lb's, since that's the direction the axle spins to turn the wheels forward? My value was 8 in/lbs in that direction and 3-4 in/lbs in the clockwise direction.
 
I’m up to 190ft/lbs on the pinion nut and I’m still at 8 in/lb. 🤷‍♂️
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Sounds good to me. 😀
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Well, I kept increasing the torque on the pinion nut till 205 ft/lbs, and the in/lb was still at 8, non play at the pinion shaft, so I called it quits and put it all back together. Went for a 20 minute drive, mostly 2H, but some 4H and 4L. No leak at the pinion seal. Seems nice and smooth. Hopefully this means success. Thanks!

A70CAEF0-AF95-42F4-9A0B-9551C86FFDDD.jpeg
 
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JMT said:
I'm in the process now. Thanks for all the help. I'll finish this afternoon.

One question. I checked the pre-load before removing the pinion nut. I recorded teh values in both directions, but I'm not sure that is necessary. Should I just be concerned with the counter clockwise in/lb's, since that's the direction the axle spins to turn the wheels forward? My value was 8 in/lbs in that direction and 3-4 in/lbs in the clockwise direction.
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Sorry for not responding. I've been down with Covid, actually had all the really bad symptoms.
As long as your pre and post bearing preload are the same (it's ok to go a little over +5 inch lbs)
and you have the same amount of exposed threads, you should be fine.
 
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williambmac said:
Sorry for not responding. I've been down with Covid, actually had all the really bad symptoms.
As long as your pre and post bearing preload are the same (it's ok to go a little over +5 inch lbs)
and you have the same amount of exposed threads, you should be fine.
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Sorry about that. Seems people getting the Covid now are having a tougher time of it.

I got to 205ft/lbs of torque on the pinion nut, and the pre-load was the same as before. There was no play in the pinion shaft and threads looked to be the same. Every time I increased the torque wrench 5ft/lb the amount the nut moved seemed negligible, so I just stopped. I think 220ft/lbs is the max anyway. Bottom line is the pre-load is the same as before, 8ft/lbs. seems fine now, no leaks. Am I ok?
 
JMT said:
Sorry about that. Seems people getting the Covid now are having a tougher time of it.

I got to 205ft/lbs of torque on the pinion nut, and the pre-load was the same as before. There was no play in the pinion shaft and threads looked to be the same. Every time I increased the torque wrench 5ft/lb the amount the nut moved seemed negligible, so I just stopped. I think 220ft/lbs is the max anyway. Bottom line is the pre-load is the same as before, 8ft/lbs. seems fine now, no leaks. Am I ok?
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As long as the preload is the same and you have the same amount of exposed threads,
220 ft lbs seems a little high. but if you have the same amount of preload you should be fine.
 
williambmac said:
As long as the preload is the same and you have the same amount of exposed threads,
220 ft lbs seems a little high. but if you have the same amount of preload you should be fine.
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I stopped at 205ft/lbs. seemed like going anymore wouldn’t help and was too close to being excessive. Thanks for all your help. The job was not bad with the yoke tool and the 06 FSM was super helpful. Get well soon.
 
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Can someone give me the correct part number for the seal? I just bought one at advanced auto and there is far too much play in it. Would rather order online and know it’s right. Dana 44 rear. Thanks
 
This thread has interesting information, but very conflicting to what I’m walking through when looking to change my Yokes to 1310 from 1330.

It’s a locking 1 time use Nut on the pinion (my slang “locking”, 1 time use), you should never re-use it, so marking does no good? Or does Jeep somehow have a nut that is reusable different than most others?

To measure the pinion torque in IN LBs you have to have the carrier etc and the axles out, not just the axles. Turning the pinion with the carrier in tells you nothing about preload of the pinion. At least that’s the detailed information I’ve been provided, and trust completely.

These are all “doable” methods and within ….sure that may not cause a problem?

I know all that sucks to do, but the only way to do it and know it’s actually done correctly, is pull all that, use a new nut etc, correct?
 
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cpwolf said:
To measure the pinion torque in IN LBs you have to have the carrier etc and the axles out, not just the axles. Turning the pinion with the carrier in tells you nothing about preload of the pinion. At least that’s the detailed information I’ve been provided, and trust completely.
Click to expand...

Maybe not ideal, but if you are only trying to match before and after (not caring about the actual number), then it shouldn't matter if the axles and carrier are out.
 
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