Alternator mount replacement?

capnbackflip

capnbackflip

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May 25, 2020
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Recently had a bad bearing in my ‘06 LJ belt tensioner. I went to replace the tensioner with a new one and after hours of messing with the stripped torx bolt I finally got it out. However, the job wasn’t allowed to be done as the pin from the tensioner snapped off inside the alternator mount. I can’t seem to find the part as rock auto doesn’t carry it and mopar says it is discontinued. Does anyone have any insight where I might be able to find one? Or quick fixes to remove the pin?
 
TJ Jim said:
Got a picture to clarify a bit?
Click to expand...

Not the best picture, I can take one today after work. This is the actual tensioner which shows the pin broken off, which is currently inside the alternator mount.

EkFE57L - Imgur.jpg
 
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capnbackflip said:
That was my thought, do you think extractors will work? I'm going to try and get some PB blaster on there, hopefully I can get a drill on it without removing the entire part or the radiator.
Click to expand...

Extractors are a hit and miss for me, mostly a miss. It's worth a try, but I wouldn't spend too much time with them. I like PB, but acetone and ATF (50/50 mix if you aren't failure) will work better than PB as a penetrant lubricant. Heat the mount up before applying, then soak it with the acetone ATF and let it sit for a while. It looks like it might be protruding some. Can you grab it with pliers? Otherwise, you're going to be drilling, on or off of the vehicle.
 
if you have a hand grinder, sand the pin flat so your bit doesn't walk around and drill it a little smaller than the open hole then punch it through or drill it all the way through.
 
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BlueC said:
Extractors are a hit and miss for me, mostly a miss. It's worth a try, but I wouldn't spend too much time with them. I like PB, but acetone and ATF (50/50 mix if you aren't failure) will work better than PB as a penetrant lubricant. Heat the mount up before applying, then soak it with the acetone ATF and let it sit for a while. It looks like it might be protruding some. Can you grab it with pliers? Otherwise, you're going to be drilling, on or off of the vehicle.
Click to expand...

Tried with pliers but it's difficult to get a solid grip on it.
 
tr21triton said:
if you have a hand grinder, sand the pin flat so your bit doesn't walk around and drill it a little smaller than the open hole then punch it through or drill it all the way through.
Click to expand...

I could take the whole bracket off and put it on the drill press, then just drill all the way through if that works? Would have to be careful not to make the new hole too much larger though.
 
capnbackflip said:
Does the hole for the pins go all the way through? This seems like it wouldn't be too hard!
Click to expand...

Just going by the picture that shows the other one all the way through. Makes no sense to do it any other way but I do not know for certain. I can find out if I need to though, I'm sure I have one of those brackets laying around somewhere.
 
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get you a little mirror and look to see, but I'd bet it goes all the way through. you might be able to feel the back side and tell. but it will be alot easier if it's removed. that is if you dont snap a bolt getting it removed
 
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mrblaine said:
Just going by the picture that shows the other one all the way through. Makes no sense to do it any other way but I do not know for certain. I can find out if I need to though, I'm sure I have one of those brackets laying around somewhere.
Click to expand...

Update: the other hole did not go all the way through when I removed the bracket. I ended up putting the smallest hole I could in the bracket and punching it out that way though. Probably not great for the structural integrity but that’s a problem for the next 100k miles.
 
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capnbackflip said:
Update: the other hole did not go all the way through when I removed the bracket. I ended up putting the smallest hole I could in the bracket and punching it out that way though. Probably not great for the structural integrity but that’s a problem for the next 100k miles.
Click to expand...

Had to do the same thing and it's been fine for a year and about 5,000 miles.
 
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