2001 Radiator Replacement (Champion Aluminum)

In my 98 TJs short 39k mile life, it was really only on the road until 04.

At some point it had a made in China radiator installed. Possible Spectra part number. And maybe manufactured the 33rd day of 2011.

Hope I dont die because not Mopar :confused:

😃

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looking into replacing mine (since I'll do the waterpump soon) or at least buy a spare to be able to replace it just in case. I live in Thailand, and Jeep parts are really hard or even impossible to get here.. I mostly order from the US (amazon.com), but hard to find right hand drive parts there.

I'm currently running the original one, which has been fixed about 5 years ago. A local shop quoted me $150 to rebuild it completely of aluminum, so I went for it (yes, labor is very cheap in Thailand) .. but what I got instead is just the top plastic replaced with aluminum.. the bottom part is still plastic (as cheap as labor is, as hard it gets with communication).

IMG_20230209_083520.jpg

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In general I always go for mopar whenever possible, and I've learned that a LHD mopar (55037653AB) can be easily converted to a RHD (55037654AD) by switching the mounting brackets on the sides. I'm quite sure that only works with the mopar and not with any aftermarket... definitely not with fully welded ones.

Regarding wemopar they would have a 55037653AB in stock for $360 and I've just sent them an eMail if there is any chance they ship international, but I guess I'm looking at additional $150 shipping and $350 customs.. so we talk about at least $860 for that piece.

If I look at amazon only Denso has those side mounting brackets, but no clue if they are compatible with mopar and can be switched to RHD. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCO5XL5/?tag=wranglerorg-20 .. For example that $153 comes to a total of $406 including $100 shipping and $155 customs (amazon thankfully pre-calculcates/pre-pays customs, which is a life saver in ordering parts. Thailand has really high customs on car parts, so in that case 100% customs on top. Anybody experience with Denso? And it would be plastic pieces again.

If I look at other aftermarket, there is basically zero chance to get a RHD one...

What it's really easy to get here instead is stuff directly from china, since it's not far from Thailand and they have some deal between the countries about lower customs too. So looking at that one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002237597464.html (which is actually RHD, pictures match) would be a really easy and relatively cheap solution, and it looks like properly welded... in theory. Problem with china stuff is always, when picture doesn't match products and any of those on aliexpress have basically zero reviews. And I'm quite sure there are Chinese people who actually can weld. Even they offer 30 days return, it's not worth much if I'm stranded on the roadside or a mounting bracket is off by 1 inch when installing. That one would probably cost me $300-350 (have to guess customs).

Thoughts?
 
mipa said:
looking into replacing mine (since I'll do the waterpump soon) or at least buy a spare to be able to replace it just in case. I live in Thailand, and Jeep parts are really hard or even impossible to get here.. I mostly order from the US (amazon.com), but hard to find right hand drive parts there.

I'm currently running the original one, which has been fixed about 5 years ago. A local shop quoted me $150 to rebuild it completely of aluminum, so I went for it (yes, labor is very cheap in Thailand) .. but what I got instead is just the top plastic replaced with aluminum.. the bottom part is still plastic (as cheap as labor is, as hard it gets with communication).

View attachment 399038

View attachment 399039


In general I always go for mopar whenever possible, and I've learned that a LHD mopar (55037653AB) can be easily converted to a RHD (55037654AD) by switching the mounting brackets on the sides. I'm quite sure that only works with the mopar and not with any aftermarket... definitely not with fully welded ones.

Regarding wemopar they would have a 55037653AB in stock for $360 and I've just sent them an eMail if there is any chance they ship international, but I guess I'm looking at additional $150 shipping and $350 customs.. so we talk about at least $860 for that piece.

If I look at amazon only Denso has those side mounting brackets, but no clue if they are compatible with mopar and can be switched to RHD. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCO5XL5/?tag=wranglerorg-20 .. For example that $153 comes to a total of $406 including $100 shipping and $155 customs (amazon thankfully pre-calculcates/pre-pays customs, which is a life saver in ordering parts. Thailand has really high customs on car parts, so in that case 100% customs on top. Anybody experience with Denso? And it would be plastic pieces again.

If I look at other aftermarket, there is basically zero chance to get a RHD one...

What it's really easy to get here instead is stuff directly from china, since it's not far from Thailand and they have some deal between the countries about lower customs too. So looking at that one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002237597464.html (which is actually RHD, pictures match) would be a really easy and relatively cheap solution, and it looks like properly welded... in theory. Problem with china stuff is always, when picture doesn't match products and any of those on aliexpress have basically zero reviews. And I'm quite sure there are Chinese people who actually can weld. Even they offer 30 days return, it's not worth much if I'm stranded on the roadside or a mounting bracket is off by 1 inch when installing. That one would probably cost me $300-350 (have to guess customs).

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Remind me to slip three radiators in my luggage the next time I visit Thailand...

-Mac
 
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Well, I just put a Champion EC2101 from Jegs in the ‘00 TJ I just bought (third TJ). We’ll see how it goes. The only OE radiator I could find in stock was over $550 shipped.

The Champion bolted right in. I needed some metric bolts to attach the fan shroud. I’m not sure of the size as I just found some suitable ones in my hardware junk bin.

4FC2FCFB-FF26-4DE1-B559-A3EC0E0EF9FF.jpeg
 
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I've decided to go for Mopar 55037653AC and two Hayden 397 quick connector adapters.. since the AC are more in stock then the AB, and those quick connectors are only $9 .. currently trying to find the best/safest shipping option to Thailand, but will end up around $950 total.. a chinese aliexpress one would probably be around $350-400 but with the Mopar I've piece of mind for at least another 20 years.. hopefully.
 
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I’ve actually had pretty bad luck with the OE TJ radiators. The ‘98 failed at about 60k/4 years at the plastic tank seams. I replaced it with an all metal aftermarket Brand X one in 2002ish and it lasted another several years/50k until I sold it. My ‘00 apparently failed at some point because it had an aftermarket when I bought it at 110k. This ‘00 I just bought has 71,000 miles and was leaking badly at both the upper and lower tanks. It had been sitting in a barn since 2016 but based on the rust on the front of the engine and the staining it looks like it was leaking for many years prior.

The aftermarket ones may indeed be worse but I’ve not found the OE Mopar radiators to be particularly good. I’ve got other 20+ year old cars from GM, Porsche, etc and all are still on their original radiators with no leaks.
 
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Jeff d said:
The aftermarket ones may indeed be worse but I’ve not found the OE Mopar radiators to be particularly good. I’ve got other 20+ year old cars from GM, Porsche, etc and all are still on their original radiators with no leaks.
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THANK YOU!

I have never owned a car with as bad a radiator as the Jeep TJ. I finally replaced the Behr radiator (with another Behr) in my old Mercedes after 36 years - and it didn't really need it even then. I've been told that my old MBZ doesn't stress the cooling system like the TJ does - and I'm sure that's true, but I find it irritating that nobody apparently makes a radiator that will last in this application. I'm QUITE sure its possible - I think its mostly planned obsolescence and/or designing too close to "the edge" which is the case with a fair amount else in this vehicle.
 
Jeff d said:
Well, I just put a Champion EC2101 from Jegs in the ‘00 TJ I just bought (third TJ). We’ll see how it goes. The only OE radiator I could find in stock was over $550 shipped.

The Champion bolted right in. I needed some metric bolts to attach the fan shroud. I’m not sure of the size as I just found some suitable ones in my hardware junk bin.

View attachment 400050
Click to expand...

This looks like the same one I installed. I would consider throwing an OEM radiator cap on if you haven’t already
 
Jeff d said:
Well, I just put a Champion EC2101 from Jegs in the ‘00 TJ I just bought (third TJ). We’ll see how it goes. The only OE radiator I could find in stock was over $550 shipped.

The Champion bolted right in. I needed some metric bolts to attach the fan shroud. I’m not sure of the size as I just found some suitable ones in my hardware junk bin.

View attachment 400050
Click to expand...

Nice Job!

I also just installed a NEW all-aluminum radiator (after the plastic cracked). This one was from a company called CoolingSky @ $159 with great reviews.

Good Luck ;)
 
Temps have reached upwards of 106 here in Texas and the radiator seems to be holding up just fine. While idling with AC at full blast it creeps up to 211-212 but goes back down once you start moving again. So far, everything seems as good as OEM.

Time will tell obviously, but I’ve been very pleased with it so far.
 
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Alatex said:
Temps have reached upwards of 106 here in Texas and the radiator seems to be holding up just fine. While idling with AC at full blast it creeps up to 211-212 but goes back down once you start moving again. So far, everything seems as good as OEM.

Time will tell obviously, but I’ve been very pleased with it so far.
Click to expand...
That's good but do check your fan clutch too to make sure it's spinning the fan hard when you're sitting still. The fan clutch is loose and doesn't spin the fan hard when it's cold but it stiffens up when things are hot so the fan can spin at full speed.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
That's good but do check your fan clutch too to make sure it's spinning the fan hard when you're sitting still. The fan clutch is loose and doesn't spin the fan hard when it's cold but it stiffens up when things are hot so the fan can spin at full speed.
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I actually have a fan clutch ready to install as it’s the oldest and weakest part of my coolant system now. I will check it.
 
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Hello Mr. Allatex :)

If I may offer my observation, I believe you made a good choice compared to a plastic housing. I'm glad the Alum. Radiator is holding up well for you. I also had to replace a cracked plastic housing last year with a 'CoolingSky 3 Row All Aluminum Radiator'. My only comment is that I immediately noticed a hotter surface temperature with the all alumunim construction, since this design sheds heat more efficiently. And BTW, I use Zerex GO5. I've read normal temperatures can run as high as 225 degrees but my gauge never gets higher than midway (most times about 11:30 on the gauge). Have you also noticed a particularly HOTTER surface on the body of the construction?
 
Well for what it’s worth for informational purposes my Jeep has a Murray aluminum / plastic radiator and it has worked fine during the Phoenix 118 degree tempuratures with the AC on in stop and go rush hour traffic. In my opinion that is a very positive review of the radiator’s efficiency.
 
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WWII-Willys said:
Hello Mr. Allatex :)

If I may offer my observation, I believe you made a good choice compared to a plastic housing. I'm glad the Alum. Radiator is holding up well for you. I also had to replace a cracked plastic housing last year with a 'CoolingSky 3 Row All Aluminum Radiator'. My only comment is that I immediately noticed a hotter surface temperature with the all alumunim construction, since this design sheds heat more efficiently. And BTW, I use Zerex GO5. I've read normal temperatures can run as high as 225 degrees but my gauge never gets higher than midway (most times about 11:30 on the gauge). Have you also noticed a particularly HOTTER surface on the body of the construction?
Click to expand...

Yeah I think the radiator itself is certainly hotter, but I do my best not to touch it so it’s not an issue😂
 
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