Sale prep recommendation (bubbling paint)

monto

monto

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I am preparing to sell my 2006 TJR with 88,000 miles and have two areas where rust is popping through from the underside as seen in pics. While I was initially inclined to take it to a body shop for repair I’m curious if I should sell as-is since, as far as I know, all the paint is original and the rest of the Jeep is 95% bone stock. As close to original as possible seems to get a premium on BaT and many offerers ask if it’s original paint in the comments. Any thoughts one way or the other would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
monto

P.S. I’m selling as I found an amazing LJR in TX with only 28k miles. Currently being trailered up to Boston as we speak!

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Where?
Floorboards? Rails? Body? Fenders?

I am in the NE rust belt. I looked at dozens of TJs before I bought mine. So much as a spot of rust anywhere and I walked. And still, even with meticulous inspection and maniacal care my rails just rusted through. It's what you can't see that is the real problem and if you CAN see it, the real problem is likely ten times as bad.

Fix it.
 
MikekiM said:
Where?
Floorboards? Rails? Body? Fenders?

I am in the NE rust belt. I looked at dozens of TJs before I bought mine. So much as a spot of rust anywhere and I walked. And still, even with meticulous inspection and maniacal care my rails just rusted through. It's what you can't see that is the real problem and if you CAN see it, the real problem is likely ten times as bad.

Fix it.
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Makes sense thank you.
 
If you attempt to repair you will open a can of worms and be dumping money into the jeep you will never recoup. I say sell it as is. You have to remember for every person that would turn up their nose at rust there is another person that doesn't care.
 
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Jay-P said:
If it is only in the pictures you posted i would leave as is so you can claim original paint through out. Just be sure to show it in your ad.
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It is in fact only the two spots I posted.
 
Either fix it right (as if you were going to keep it forever, and fairly expensive) or don't touch it.

A buyer doesn't want a covered-up or half-fixed problem. If he can see the problem, he can decide whether to buy. A lousy fix is worse than no fix at all, and is lying to your buyer.
 
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You are in the rust belt. People there are used to rust. Remember you only need to find one person to sell it to. Hell the guy who buys it will put Metalcloak fenders on it anyway.
 
OldBuzzard said:
Either fix it right (as if you were going to keep it forever, and fairly expensive) or don't touch it.

A buyer doesn't want a covered-up or half-fixed problem. If he can see the problem, he can decide whether to buy. A lousy fix is worse than no fix at all, and is lying to your buyer.
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I think this is sound advice.

OP if you decide to fix it, use a competent shop, preferably a quality restoration shop. I'd avoid any production shop who typically does salvaged vehicles. Silver is hard to match up, and the painted area will be fairly large. I'd expect $500-1,000 repair, depending on what is found under the paint.
 
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MikekiM said:
So those pics weren't included when I responded. If those are the only two issues.. leave them alone.

I was thinking more along the lines of floorboards, frame rails etc.
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Thanks for following up. This seems to be the consensus. And makes sense to let the next owner know exactly what they're getting and allow them to tackle it the way they see fit.
 
monto said:
Thanks for following up. This seems to be the consensus. And makes sense to let the next owner know exactly what they're getting and allow them to tackle it the way they see fit.
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I will share that I (and many others) had the same bubbling on the fender. Solidly known issue. Mine was passenger side. I knew it when I bought the Jeep and had it repaired shortly there-after. And it came back. I ended up replacing both outer and inner fender.
 
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Same here bought one that spent its life in Indiana and I had the back right corner repaired by a competent body shop. PO had a patch job done on the fenders with a shade off on the silver. Plan to eventually get a pair of decent take off fenders and replace. I keep it off the salt now.

**Hide your new LJR while selling this one!
 
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Sell it as is.
I am from up north of you. The fender is a direct swap. Best method for our area is to buy a fender from one of the Parts dealer in our area. There is a guy in NH close to the border that is great to work with.

That area under the light in the back is going to require cut and weld. Just had mine taken care of last spring. Just leave them as is. Any Jeep Person from New England is going to know the trouble spots on the TJs and get suspicious if anything is covered up.

Get that new Southern Jeep treated ASAP
 
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wigsajumper said:
Sell it as is.
I am from up north of you. The fender is a direct swap. Best method for our area is to buy a fender from one of the Parts dealer in our area. There is a guy in NH close to the border that is great to work with.

That area under the light in the back is going to require cut and weld. Just had mine taken care of last spring. Just leave them as is. Any Jeep Person from New England is going to know the trouble spots on the TJs and get suspicious if anything is covered up.

Get that new Southern Jeep treated ASAP
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Thanks!

One question, can you describe what you mean by "treated?" Is this specific to the frame or broader?
 
monto said:
Thanks!

One question, can you describe what you mean by "treated?" Is this specific to the frame or broader?
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NH Oil Undertreatment. Woolwax Treatment. It is a oil or wax based system that can be sprayed under the vehicle that helps to keep rust at bay. It can be DIY'd or there are garages up here in New England that will do it for you.
 
monto said:
Thanks!

One question, can you describe what you mean by "treated?" Is this specific to the frame or broader?
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I did a full clean of the frame rails insides. Drilled drain holes fore and aft of the CA mounts. Cleaned all the surface rust. Then treated the outside of nearly everything with POR15 and inside of the rails with Fluid Film. Unfortunately, though my rails appeared to be in great condition and passed the hammer-tap test, I just got some rot through after of the driver rear CA. Going to cut out the cancer and weld in some fresh steel.
 
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