I'm working on my LJ and it is stretched in the rear 5 in. It's going to have Dana 60 front and rear 67wms with the mid arm suspension. 14 King coilovers Was going to try and fit 40s under it. And not happy with how the numbers work out. Sitting on my stands at the moment with 24 inches under frame which I think is a little high, with a fenders cut out on the rear to the inner fender well I can only come up with 5 inches of up travel when the bumps are set to keep it out of the fenders when stuffed and twisted. If I were to limit down travel. I'm sure I can pull another half to an inch of up travel because of limiting the twist. I'm really thinking right now. I'd be better off staying with 37s and having full articulation and six and a half inches of up travel maybe even seven and a lower frame height.
Opinion on up travel and what is enough
- Thread starter Larrybortz
- Start date
The best ride I ever had was with long travel OME Nitrocharger (the old non sport versions) with 6”up and 5”down … when bombing down the River bottom I used to joke about holding a cup of tea while doing about 50mph.
I also built up a discovery using OME Nitrochargers (not long travel) and had similar comments in the same River bottom, actually it’s a dried creek bed here in the desert … lumpy, Rocky, Sandy, muddy… a whole lotta fun.
I also built up a discovery using OME Nitrochargers (not long travel) and had similar comments in the same River bottom, actually it’s a dried creek bed here in the desert … lumpy, Rocky, Sandy, muddy… a whole lotta fun.
I have genright high lines front, rear armor and flairs. Haven't got to fitting the front yet just the rear. I have them cut up to the inside fender. When I was articulating it I thought I was going to be good as I way I was measuring it. I had seven inches of up travel. I just didn't take into account that when the bumps are set when it articulates that when the axle goes straight up on both sides it hits the bumps before it gets the full 7 inches up
Some photos I had,one shows pushed up to the limit of bumps on both sides and the other shows one side stuffed while the other side droops.
That was what I considered doing on the rear, Blaine what do you shoot for on frame hight on 37 and 40. I've cycled this thing and cut and rewelded so many times just to get a quarter inch hear and there and didn't catch the full bump reduction. I had good numbers for anti squat, the upper links hitting the floor when the lowers were getting to the frame, I just have it in my mind that 24 inches under the frame is a lot and more is not acceptable.
We were in Hot springs off road park last weekend and there was one trail that was rutted bad and my tj on 35 was dragging and I thought to myself 40s on the LJ will be nice but maybe there not worth the pain
We were in Hot springs off road park last weekend and there was one trail that was rutted bad and my tj on 35 was dragging and I thought to myself 40s on the LJ will be nice but maybe there not worth the pain
We do it the other way. Start at the front. Balance uptravel against what hits at full stuff with fenders being the least concern. When you get all the uptravel you can get, the move down from that with a shock travel you like. We do that with chunks of tube holding shock at ride height. That lets you put tires on it, at that ride height and see where the frame is. At that point, you make the decision about frame height.
Don't forget that the tire air pressure affects frame height. Depending on where you are supporting the rear of the rig, that adds or takes away from chassis weight compressing the tires.
Our steering is generally our upper limit. When the tie rod slams into the body of the Tie Rod End, that is about as much as I can get.
Figures, I usually do things backwards
Our joint bodies sit right down on top of the diff as tight as we can get them on the rear axle. Then the crossmember on the tub is almost always notched and reinforced to stop the floor from deforming. The bodies of the joints on top of the truss or mount then go up until they touch the floor sheet metal, slightly down from there is hard bump.
Little of what's done, if you ever look at something and tell yourself that it's got a little rust but it's ok, just slam your fingers in the door and leave.
