I got a reman 2.5L engine. I have an exhaust leak at the flange. I have but finished the break in period. (Just installed on the 24Th) I am noticing metal on metal clank sound under load. When I’m parked and bring rpm to 2500 the engine sounds fine. But under load driving I hear this tap. Could I eliminate the engine as a cause because it’s fine when reaving not under load?
New engine tick
- Thread starter RAC02
- Start date
That’s the flange. I don’t know if it makes more sense it being a nut out the engine. I have a manual transmission btw
Did you pull the transmission?
I think you need a new downpipe. That looks terrible.
I made my own with some 2.5 stainless pipe off Amazon. 4.0 though.
I also replaced my cat. Found chunks of some old exhaust seals in there. Might want to shake yours out.
-Mac
I think you need a new downpipe. That looks terrible.
I made my own with some 2.5 stainless pipe off Amazon. 4.0 though.
I also replaced my cat. Found chunks of some old exhaust seals in there. Might want to shake yours out.
-Mac
Replaced the clutch while putting in the new engine. If it was the engine, would it also make the noise while at idle with the engine up to 2800 rpm. I can leave it at 2800 rpm and sound ok? Could it be transmission, or a failed clutch install? Or more so engine.
I got a remanufactured 4.0 and developed a tick too that’s hasn’t gone away even after breaking it in
Filed a claim with the manufacturer and sent it back to my mechanic.
Filed a claim with the manufacturer and sent it back to my mechanic.
I saw your picture of the exhaust flange with your transmission (or a transmission) behind it. That's all. A loose exhaust can make all sorts of crazy noises. I'd get a new flange welded on at the minimum or a whole new downpipe.
It's pretty stressful doing a big fix...every noise makes you jump and you're thinking terrible things. I get it. Just did a 1600 mile road trip after frame and tub swapping my Jeep. Check engine light came on, ODB port wasn't working... alternator seemed to quit working and turned out to be a loose connection... exhaust got loose and the O2 sensor fell on to the clutch line and melted through.
Fix the exhaust. See if it fixes the problem.
As the saying goes, if you hear hooves think horses, not zebras.
-Mac
Good advise and I know your right. I spent so much money on this engine and install. I can’t pay another mechanic to take it back out. I guess the thing I don’t understand is of it was the engine, wouldn’t it do it at ideal bringing the rpms up? If I brought it to the manufacture they would do just that right? To eliminate all other parts. I might be wrong. I’m stressing because this whole thing cost me 4k. And everyone that looks at it just wants money to even lay eyes on it. Or they “ just put the engine in” . I don’t know. I guess the exhaust has to be fixed first. I checked the oil and it looks muddy. But the break in instructions State 30 weight non detergent oil with the zink additive . I’m assuming that it just what it looks like.
If you really want an opinion hit up @Jerry Bransford - he defected to Florida somewhere.
I think you should drive it and get it good and warm and get that break it oil out as soon as the rebuild company - Titan - right? - says to do it. Videos, pictures of everything. Keep all your receipts.
Can you weld? Or have a welder? I couldn't find a source for just that flange...I was tempted to try hydraulic pressing some exhaust pipe into a cone to replicate the shape...but it's more of a flute. Walker has to have something. Or an exhaust shop.
Funny thing...I screwed up welding on my transmission to exhaust rod and compensated by cutting off some pipe behind my cat... exhaust was in all the wrong spots. Had to pay a shop $200 in Victoria to fix it while on the road... pulled all that off as soon as I got home and replaced it. Should have bought a Premier Power Welder a long time ago.
Rather than having a shop fix that flange...spend a couple hundred bucks on a cheap HF welder and give it a buzz.
-Mac
I think you should drive it and get it good and warm and get that break it oil out as soon as the rebuild company - Titan - right? - says to do it. Videos, pictures of everything. Keep all your receipts.
Can you weld? Or have a welder? I couldn't find a source for just that flange...I was tempted to try hydraulic pressing some exhaust pipe into a cone to replicate the shape...but it's more of a flute. Walker has to have something. Or an exhaust shop.
Funny thing...I screwed up welding on my transmission to exhaust rod and compensated by cutting off some pipe behind my cat... exhaust was in all the wrong spots. Had to pay a shop $200 in Victoria to fix it while on the road... pulled all that off as soon as I got home and replaced it. Should have bought a Premier Power Welder a long time ago.
Rather than having a shop fix that flange...spend a couple hundred bucks on a cheap HF welder and give it a buzz.
-Mac
Yes, I know Jerry. He lives close to me and has saved me a couple of times. I’m trying to give him a break lol. He has helped me a lot .
I did see this and may order it. My oil pressure switch was acting up so I hooked up a manual gauge and it seemed ok like the pressure was alright but muddy oil was coming out of the tube. I might call the manufacture “Titan “ tomorrow and ask about this. But
I’ll probably call the manufacture tomorrow and then the last shop that had it. I’ll try to find out if they have any thing to add to the noise and oil color. The oil gauge was acting crazy, up and down up and down. Even went to 0 at one point. Hooked up a manual gauge and it was reading fine. I assume a bad sending unit.
Bad sending unit or perhaps just trouble reading cold 30w oil
Might want to send some oil out for analysis.
Muddy makes me think oil/water mix...is that what you're infering? If you're thinking that then perhaps a combustion gas test?
Hoping you don't have to replace your cat...but if the flange looks like that... perhaps the rest is similar.
-Mac
Might want to send some oil out for analysis.
Muddy makes me think oil/water mix...is that what you're infering? If you're thinking that then perhaps a combustion gas test?
Hoping you don't have to replace your cat...but if the flange looks like that... perhaps the rest is similar.
-Mac
Anything is possible. Like I said get that 30w break in oil out of there as soon as Titan says it's time and get some good...what 10w30 Penzoil or Napa conventional or whatever Titan recommends or requires.
Break in oil has all the junk in it that was missed when assembling and installing the engine. And as you well know...oil is cheap...engines are not...
-Mac