Took the LOD carrier off for now and installed the Morryde kit. I will swap out for another bumper here soon.
Looking great! I like the spice top on that color.
As far as your vibes go, even though the 241 doesn't need a slip yoke eliminator, you still need a CV or double cardan driveshaft with your lift. Also, you will then need to adjust your pinion angle to accommodate the CV/DC. Notice with the CV you want the pinion pointed at the t-case. When you read around on the forum there is range of angles that have worked best for different builds, so you may end up having to play with it a bit to find what best suits you.
As far as driveshafts go, I think Tom Woods is probably the favorite around here with Adam's being a pretty close second.
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Thanks! Yeah I love this soft top, I am keeping my eyes open for a hard top though.
Thanks for all the info regarding the vibes, would love to keep getting your thoughts.
So previous owner mentioned it having a Tom Woods rear driveshaft and just from the info I can find online it looks to be true but I can’t seem to really get a definitive answer as there is no branding on the drive shaft itself. This photo is prior to me installing the TC drop. You can kind of see how bunched that front part of the drive shaft is. After the TC drop there is more more to give but I really don’t want to go the TC drop route. I also noticed that the rear wheels are not centered in the wheel well so maybe its a combo of that, no body lift?
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Well yep, you definitely have a double cardan driveshaft. It may be a Woods but I couldn't say for sure (someone else might now a way to tell without branding).
The pinion looks positioned pretty well but it could be just a minor angle change that would make the difference. As for the axle not being centered, you may be able to adjust your control arms (upper and lower) to slightly move the axle back to center, but with short arms there becomes a limit where this is possible based on the acceptable amount of adjustment for your arms. I don't know what the maximum thread visibility for the Currie arms is but you may be able to find it in your instructions or online. There can also be other issues as you do this and rotate the axle, such as trackbar clearance on the gas tank, shocks hitting coil seats, and just general tweaking of the springs as the seats become misaligned.
Yours looks to sit pretty high for a 4", but I think the Currie is usually pretty accurate. How much has it been driven since you installed the Currie kit? Did you wait to tighten the control arm hardware until it was on the ground on its weight? If not, the arms could be binding and causing it to sit a touch higher?
Edit to add since I just realized you don't have a body lift. You also might look at doing a motor mount lift (MML). You can do it without a body lift but you have to make some adjustments to your fan shroud to avoid interference. If all others are good, a MML is probably your best route.
Thanks for all this great info! So I ended up getting it installed at a shop and I think they had it on a rack when tightening but I can’t say for sure. I know they were messing with the rear arms as it was causing some rubbing on what you mentioned, the tracbar, gas, etc. I also noticed that my shocks have been rubbing as well so I might need to get those shock brackets I have seen on some sites. They had to cut my exhaust too which is now on the list of things to do.
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You had a shop do that install and they let it leave with the track bar hitting the crossmember and the shocks hitting? Time to crawl under there and start figuring out how it all works. Nobody will care as much about it being right except for you. Lots of people here can help you make sense of it.
For one thing, the wheels not being centered in the wheel well at ride height is pretty common with a 4" lift and short arms. Reason is that you set your arm length to clear everthing and line up with bumpstops at full compression. Once you come up to ride height, the arms pull the axle forward a little bit (because the arms pivot around the front mounting point).
As far as the vibs go, you just gotta adjust the arms a little bit, probably. Do you know if its your front shaft or your rear shaft? Pull the front and take it for a drive. If the vibs go away, you know where to look.
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I hope this turns out. In the pic I drew a line. your pinion angle looks to high. I did this to mine at first also. If anything a few degrees low is better as the torque on the pinion during driving increases the rear pinion. Plus when you bring the pinion down your track bar will clear the gas tank, and things will line up better. Again I did that same thing and my track bar clears by 1/2 inch now and shocks line up much better. I did still cut the coil spring lower buckets to give the shock shafts more clearance.
Great looking Jeep!
I don't like the tracbar up against the tank like that... That seems to be asking for it. How did you remedy the clearance of all that?
Nice Jeep. You are going to learn a lot working on it yourself.And this place has all the help you need. I ended up having to order a different rear trackbar bracket and adjust the control arm to clear my tank. Mine was in the tank bad.I also had to clearance the coil buckets for shocks.
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I actually installed the Currie one in this photo, but its rubbing on that pass side. Looks good to me on the driver side. Also just realized I need to clean this tank skid lol
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Thanks again for all the great info, yeah I took it to the shop with the mindset of "oh I just want it all done right." haha. Now that I understand the problem a little more I will start to take all this info from everyone here and play with it some more. So I am fairly certain the old vibrations I was getting was in the rear. I was getting the vibes more on my lower back feeling. Once I put the TC drop, the vibes decreases/went away immediately. Which I think is good for now but like you mentioned, it feels like a bandaid fix and not ideal.
I feel like my next go do's would be something like this?:
Body lift & motor mount
Remove TC drop
Adjust arms