He's said his compression is good previously.
I'm leaning towards your OPDA/timing/crappy DuraCrap Cam Sensor set up.
You have all the pieces for combustion if your tests are all as advertised. None of those pieces mean crap if it's not in time.
2001 Jeep TJ; Crank No Start Rabbit-Hole
- Thread starter deitle
- Start date
He's said his compression is good previously.
I'm leaning towards your OPDA/timing/crappy DuraCrap Cam Sensor set up.
You have all the pieces for combustion if your tests are all as advertised. None of those pieces mean crap if it's not in time.
OP
I’m leaning towards the OPDA / cam sensor too. Right now they are both Echlin brand from NAPA, I have tried two different brands of OPDAs and 3 different brands of cam sensors. I can’t find Mopar replacements.
I’m thinking I’ll pull the valve cover and verify TDC by the valves on cylinder 1, in case my timing mark on my harmonic balancer is off or something odd like that?
Bad gas try different fuel source
why does it run fine when bottle fed?does he have bad gas?try a different fuel source.
OP
I’ve already swapped the gas for new. I just started it up again with the fuel pump relay pulled and the fuel rail primed, it starts up for a second off the fuel rail pressure then dies once it runs out of fuel.
Before it’s said, again, it does maintain fuel pressure while cranking when the fuel pump relay is back in and everything. When I try to start it and the jeep doesn’t start, there is a strong smell of fuel at the front of the engine but there is no leaks and the pressure holds for 8+ hours.
It almost seems like it’s either getting too much fuel or that the fuel is so far out of time that it’s not igniting.
I also just pulled the spark plugs, set the engine to #1 tdc on the compression stroke, and reseated the OPDA to ensure it is in the correct spot. I used a pin in the OPDA to align the inner and outer portions, and put it in so the sensor connector is facing the firewall when fully seated. Still doing the exact same thing.
Just out of curiosity.. Unplug your cam shaft sensor and try to start it.
Edit: Never mind. That only works on the 05-06 years.
Your shutter looks EXACTLY the same as this in relation to the sensor base? I've personally seen an aftermarket OPDA that didn't even have a hole drilled for a toothpick. I guess it's not out of the realm of possibilities that the hole is mis-drilled.
I'd also be taking a fuel sample and lighter to some of that gas just to be damn sure.
I will say this too... You've fired the parts cannon at this pretty hard. No judgement there, it just is what it is. There's also a possibility that you've actually fixed the original problem, but introduced a new one with a bad part or repair.
I read through your whole post again just trying to think of possibilities. I'm not sure when throughout this process you soldered on a new ignition coil pigtail. I'd be damn sure that I soldered those driver wires on in the correct orientation. It's possible to have them in the wrong spot, be mechanically in time, but the PCM is firing the wrong plug.
I read through your whole post again just trying to think of possibilities. I'm not sure when throughout this process you soldered on a new ignition coil pigtail. I'd be damn sure that I soldered those driver wires on in the correct orientation. It's possible to have them in the wrong spot, be mechanically in time, but the PCM is firing the wrong plug.
OP
The Duralast OPDA / sensor combo I had didn’t have a hole drilled, it came with a plastic cap for alignment. I’ve seen some people on here use it and say it’s fine, but I didn’t trust it. I will set back to TDC and ensure that the hole isn’t drilled incorrectly or something dumb like that. I’ll also test the fuel, worst case a siphon it and replace it with more new gas.
I double and triple checked while I was wiring it, but it won’t hurt to check again. The pigtail I bough had the wrong color wires so I used the broken pigtail and that same diagram to connect the correct pin to the correct wire. I’ll take a look at it this evening.
I also have a spare coil I could pull the boots off of and use a long piece of steel parallel to the coil to see all them firing and check the order that way, just to be totally sure by visually seeing it
That would confirm that you had spark, but that wouldn't confirm that your wiring is correct. For example, you could have accidentally swapped the wires for pin 3 & 4 and you would still have spark. The spark plugs would just be firing at the incorrect time.
I looked at the connector pin out. It could be confusing. Pins 1,3,4 are your drivers which have to be in a very specific order and #2 is battery voltage.
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Since you replaced the opda take a look at this video. Dex had the exact problem your fighting and attempted a work around.
OP
Sorry for the little hiatus over the past few days, life got super busy and it being the holiday season didn't help.
I verified the ignition coil is wired correctly and that there is continuity so no bad connections. I also verified that the OPDA hole is drilled in the correct place and matches the diagram you sent.
I knew starting without a camshaft sensor only worked for 05-06 years, but I tried it anyways for shits and giggles. The random, inconsistent firing I normally get while trying to start it doesn't happen with the camshaft sensor unplugged; assuming because it's not being commanded to send any fuel without a cam sensor input.
Speaking of fuel, I replaced the fuel in the tank once again. I have enough gas cans around it wasn't a big deal. Took one to the pump and got 5 fresh gallons, siphoned the old stuff out, and replaced it with the new stuff. No change in anything there. I also drained the tank entirely and cleaned it out with a rag / shop vac when I swapped the fuel pump assembly so there's no chance of any debris or water in the tank.
This does seem to be a similar issue to mine, and I also think my issue is timing related. But I don't have a distributor and I've had several combinations of OPDAs and cam sensors in it.
Fuel pressure is fine both when the pump primes and while cranking, injectors are firing and wiring checks out. ASD relay is fine, verified through the DRB III computer as well as the fact that I have spark and fuel. To me it seems the spark and fuel injection are so far off in time that it's not able to run, but I could be wrong in that.
I think it's time to take the Jeep somewhere, I probably should've a while ago but I've never taken a car to a garage to get fixed before and I thought I could figure this out. My sister is a service writer for my local dealership family and they have a Chrysler dealership, it's actually their DRB III computer I have. Hopefully I won't get taken for too bad of a ride price-wise taking it to them, but I guess we'll see.
Unless anybody's got any other ideas to try before I take it, I'll update this thread again once they find the issue. Hopefully save somebody else the time, money, and headache from an issue like this. Thanks to everybody for their help.
I verified the ignition coil is wired correctly and that there is continuity so no bad connections. I also verified that the OPDA hole is drilled in the correct place and matches the diagram you sent.
I knew starting without a camshaft sensor only worked for 05-06 years, but I tried it anyways for shits and giggles. The random, inconsistent firing I normally get while trying to start it doesn't happen with the camshaft sensor unplugged; assuming because it's not being commanded to send any fuel without a cam sensor input.
Speaking of fuel, I replaced the fuel in the tank once again. I have enough gas cans around it wasn't a big deal. Took one to the pump and got 5 fresh gallons, siphoned the old stuff out, and replaced it with the new stuff. No change in anything there. I also drained the tank entirely and cleaned it out with a rag / shop vac when I swapped the fuel pump assembly so there's no chance of any debris or water in the tank.
This does seem to be a similar issue to mine, and I also think my issue is timing related. But I don't have a distributor and I've had several combinations of OPDAs and cam sensors in it.
Fuel pressure is fine both when the pump primes and while cranking, injectors are firing and wiring checks out. ASD relay is fine, verified through the DRB III computer as well as the fact that I have spark and fuel. To me it seems the spark and fuel injection are so far off in time that it's not able to run, but I could be wrong in that.
I think it's time to take the Jeep somewhere, I probably should've a while ago but I've never taken a car to a garage to get fixed before and I thought I could figure this out. My sister is a service writer for my local dealership family and they have a Chrysler dealership, it's actually their DRB III computer I have. Hopefully I won't get taken for too bad of a ride price-wise taking it to them, but I guess we'll see.
Unless anybody's got any other ideas to try before I take it, I'll update this thread again once they find the issue. Hopefully save somebody else the time, money, and headache from an issue like this. Thanks to everybody for their help.
Yeah I think you need a cam/crank correlation with a scope to verify the timing chain didn't jump a tooth or something. Maybe a worn cam lobe, bad lifter, bent pushrod, etc. You have all the pieces on the outside to start this engine.
Good luck man. Chime back in when it's fixed and let us know what's up.
P.S. Your exhaust isn't completely plugged?
Good luck man. Chime back in when it's fixed and let us know what's up.
P.S. Your exhaust isn't completely plugged?
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OP
That’s my thought as well. And thank you, I will for sure.
I wouldn’t think so. I haven’t pulled it off and checked, but I would think that would be an over time issue and not an all good then completely not working issue right? I have the original exhaust cut after the resonator, I have a glass pack muffler and a turn down that dumps right after the transmission skid plate.
Idk. It's a hail mary, but a cheap and quick one. It would just be one to rule out before paying a shop $100/hr to throw parts at it.
OP
After way too long at the dealership I finally picked up my Jeep today! Turns out it was a stretched timing chain that allowed the Jeep to jump time, something that was always in the back of my head as a possible cause but one I didn’t want to get into.
Even though this took way way too long, I’m just glad it’s fixed. And as a bonus, half of my engine bay is new parts lol. Hopefully somebody can use this forum to figure out their issue, even if it’s not the same as mine there are a lot of good diagnostic ideas in here. Thank you to everybody who replied and helped me out!
Even though this took way way too long, I’m just glad it’s fixed. And as a bonus, half of my engine bay is new parts lol. Hopefully somebody can use this forum to figure out their issue, even if it’s not the same as mine there are a lot of good diagnostic ideas in here. Thank you to everybody who replied and helped me out!