Transmission overheating

As has been mentioned, you are under geared for 33s. Also, given your recent issues, your transmission fluid might have deteriorated. Perhaps try changing it and see if the issue you describe still persists - and make sure you install a good cooler and also temp sensor at the right location (which is the pan) and monitor the trans temp if you plan to work the transmission hard with towing.
 
What is confusing me is the fact that I can drive it for 50 miles and o ly stop for 10 min then go another 50 miles

I'm not sure just a suggestion when i had a Silverado with a 4l80 trans if i kept it in third gear i could drive it. If i put it in drive it would overheat and send a code. I replaced the torque converter and flushed all the fluid and the trans worked for as long as i had the truck.
 
The old filter was still in good/non-ragged condition when you changed it? Grasping at straws here, just thinking if it was in bad condition/raggedy pieces could be blocking flow somewhere. If not my next guess is one of the solenoids inside the valve body isn't working and is blocking ATF flow.

Changing to the 32RH would be difficult since newer PCMs like yours don't have the ability to engage the 32RH's torque converter lockup mechanism.

I'd be thinking replacing the valve body or at least getting inside to examine the solenoid valves. It's definitely not that hard of a job. I had a problem with my 42RLE and ended up going completely through the valve body to clean it up and replace a few potential sources of problems for my 42RLE which had been stuck in limp mode. I had never been inside an automatic transmission before so it's definitely doable by someone at least comfortable with tools, has a 1/4 lb. torque wrench, and is willing to use the Jeep Factory Service Manual as a guide.

There are various sources of complete valve bodies around, eBay and Amazon are two sources. I'm not making a recommendation for this one but this is just one ad for one. https://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Com...Transmission/dp/B0C4GZH8YH?tag=wranglerorg-20

This is what mine looked like once I had it ready for re-installation. I was shocked my 42RLE was ok after my inexperienced journey into its innards but it has been nearly 10 years and it is still running perfectly.

This is definitely not a job for the faint-of-heart but it's not technically difficult either.

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I haven't had a transmission open on a work table for a long time. Thanks for the memory.😁
 
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My first was a Ford AOD. It lasted a spin around the block. After learning how to correctly put the clutch packs together with enough clutches and friction rings the second time it held and lasted me till I traded it in for my first diesel truck. In those days it hardly cost anything for the parts.
 
The old filter was still in good/non-ragged condition when you changed it? Grasping at straws here, just thinking if it was in bad condition/raggedy pieces could be blocking flow somewhere. If not my next guess is one of the solenoids inside the valve body isn't working and is blocking ATF flow.

Changing to the 32RH would be difficult since newer PCMs like yours don't have the ability to engage the 32RH's torque converter lockup mechanism.

I'd be thinking replacing the valve body or at least getting inside to examine the solenoid valves. It's definitely not that hard of a job. I had a problem with my 42RLE and ended up going completely through the valve body to clean it up and replace a few potential sources of problems for my 42RLE which had been stuck in limp mode. I had never been inside an automatic transmission before so it's definitely doable by someone at least comfortable with tools, has a 1/4 lb. torque wrench, and is willing to use the Jeep Factory Service Manual as a guide.

There are various sources of complete valve bodies around, eBay and Amazon are two sources. I'm not making a recommendation for this one but this is just one ad for one. https://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Com...Transmission/dp/B0C4GZH8YH?tag=wranglerorg-20

This is what mine looked like once I had it ready for re-installation. I was shocked my 42RLE was ok after my inexperienced journey into its innards but it has been nearly 10 years and it is still running perfectly.

This is definitely not a job for the faint-of-heart but it's not technically difficult either.

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Changed the PCM and it let me go 58 miles before the CEL threw same codes (0740,0700) looks like next is the valve body. Thanks for the info.
 
*UPDATE*
I ordered a new PCM from Wrangler Fix and installed it. Jeep went 58 miles on interstate before throwing same 0740 and 0700 codes. I pulled over long enough to hook up OBD2 and clear codes then cranked back up and went another 30 miles home with no CEL coming on. I did the 160 amp Durango alternator upgrade with the big 7 from Jeep Cables and added a Interstate AGM battery a couple of moths ago. Could the extra amps/voltage have anything to do with it? Since I am having NO other shifting problems. Could it be the solenoids in the valve body malfunctioning? By me stopping, clearing the code and immediately driving off tells me that a solenoid could be opening/releasing when I stop. Am I wrong or is this possible? Transmission has not overheated since the 1st time the CEL came on and I drove around 20 miles before getting to an exit. Since that 1st time the CEL has come on I have stopped and cleared the code and pulled off like everything is normal.
 
The Durango alternator, AGM battery and new battery cables would have nothing to do with your problem. I already suggested it could be a solenoid/valve issue inside the valve body or something else to do with the valve body in post #20 above.
 
The Durango alternator, AGM battery and new battery cables would have nothing to do with your problem. I already suggested it could be a solenoid/valve issue inside the valve body or something else to do with the valve body in post #20 above.

Just making sure on the electrical upgrades. Looks like I will be replacing the valve body next and hope that will solve the issues. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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Why are we ignoring Blaine’s suggestion on gearing?

Or verifying the actual transmission temp, or verifying that the coolers are not being bypassed? Unless there is money to burn it is usually better to do some methodical troubleshooting instead of trial & error and swapping parts. A laser temp gun might help give a clue about temps and circulation. Just sayin.
 
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A friend of mine who owned a transmission shop had a tool with multiple sensors that you could stick on different parts of the transmission and cooling system and a display inside the vehicle so he could see what was happening temp wise at any point in the system.
 
Or verifying the actual transmission temp, or verifying that the coolers are not being bypassed? Unless there is money to burn it is usually better to do some methodical troubleshooting instead of trial & error and swapping parts. A laser temp gun might help give a clue about temps and circulation. Just sayin.

Trans has not overheated since 1st time the CEL came on. I drove around 20 miles before stopping. Since then it came on 4 times on the way home. I would pull over clear the code and get right back on the road. I have been driving around town all week with NO issues. The only time I get a code is when I travel on the interstate over 50 miles. Do you think the trans temp will cool off enough in a matter of minutes? Can anyone agree that it is most likely a solenoid not working as it should?
 
A friend of mine who owned a transmission shop had a tool with multiple sensors that you could stick on different parts of the transmission and cooling system and a display inside the vehicle so he could see what was happening temp wise at any point in the system.

That could be helpful but would need to carry it in the TJ until the CEL came on.
 
Trans has not overheated since 1st time the CEL came on. I drove around 20 miles before stopping. Since then it came on 4 times on the way home. I would pull over clear the code and get right back on the road. I have been driving around town all week with NO issues. The only time I get a code is when I travel on the interstate over 50 miles. Do you think the trans temp will cool off enough in a matter of minutes? Can anyone agree that it is most likely a solenoid not working as it should?

It sounds like you damaged “something” in the transmission and that something is only working intermittently now.
 
Took it by the trans shop yesterday and looks like it's "pressure related " rebuild recommended.

Well, at least now you’ll have a new transmission and an auxiliary cooler