I could waste some time explaining why most of that is fully incorrect and you've only come up with it to justify your position on temporary solutions, but it won't change anything, so just know you are wrong about most of it.
Treating the fender flares
- Thread starter joniki
- Start date
I could waste some time explaining why most of that is fully incorrect and you've only come up with it to justify your position on temporary solutions, but it won't change anything, so just know you are wrong about most of it.
For days I’ve been seeing this thread close to the top. I avoided clicking on it. I finally clicked it thinking it’s impossible for there to be 60 posts on a bs topic. That was dumb.
ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
They say it's a bs topic, so I'll let it be. This is my job though, if I'm not sure about something, I read the instructions. I didn't mean to offend. It is just my analytical nature. BS topic.
Personally , I like the grey with light grey leopard spots flares , caused by the Rocky Mountain sun.
Did you use paint or Wite-Out on those?
GR is a good answer. Crawltek is good if you’re hilining.
That’s racist!
They say it's a bs topic, so I'll let it be. This is my job though, if I'm not sure about something, I read the instructions. I didn't mean to offend. It is just my analytical nature. BS topic.
If so, then you suck at analysis. I have painted many sets of flares and my analysis doesn't suck.
No, you aren't understanding the instructions. This is the TDS.
https://semproducts.com/public/content/techsheets/TDS%20_bumper_coater_0419.pdf
Like mrblain says flare removal is very easy but I didn't do that. I quickly masked and it is also very quick and easy. Nothing got on my paint. Then you do a scuff and clean followed by a solvent wipe. Three light coats go on quickly. Basically, depending on ambient temp, by the time you get to flare number 4 the first is ready for another coat. There is no problem driving after a few hours of drying time... just don't hammer on them. Then it literally lasts for many years. It's a very high quality product with solid engineering made by an automotive refinishing product company. It's not grocery store Krylon.
Exterior house paint, I ain’t no dummy.
They want to sell you their prep products. Detergent and a scuff pad followed by a rinse and any prep solvent works just as well.And a new set of flares probably cost less than all those products they say you need to do the job right.
ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
ChasUGC
TJ Enthusiast
The instructions:
How to Use Bumper Coater in Gloss Black
Bumper Coater requires very easy prep and is simple to use. Clean the intended plastic surface with SEM Scuff & Clean first, and next use Plastic & Leather Prep or XXX Universal Surface Cleaner according to instructions. Once the plastic surface is again dry, apply 2 to 3 coats of Bumper Coater, using the adjustable comfort-tip nozzle. Bumper Coater is prepped for additional coats after waiting just five to ten minutes.
Bumper Coater — A Quality Product!
Bumper Coater has exceptional adhesion and durability. It retains its flexibility after drying, an essential consideration for a plastic coating. Bumper Coater is also applicable with precisely primed metal substrates. Allow Bumper Coater to dry for a minimum of 48 hours for the best possible results. For more information about Bumper Coater in Gloss Black, reach out to Superior Restoration today!
We have sank all the way down to arguing over something that really doesn’t even have to be done.
But if it doesn’t have to be done I guess it’s important that it doesn’t have to be done correctly.
But if it doesn’t have to be done I guess it’s important that it doesn’t have to be done correctly.
Let's get back to some technical topics and give this one a rest.
And in other news....who do you have for the men's Final Four?
Gloss Black - sucks
Semi-Gloss Black -sucks
Satin Black - winner
Matte Black- sucks
All these years, I never noticed it is Wite-Out and not White-Out...
Those wheels look entirely wrong on that Jeep. You should send them to me.