What is the best way to route a cable to the engine compartment?
- Thread starter andyj
- Start date
A few things related to your question:
1) If the Jeep is off and the fridge drains the battery, that battery is going to want to absorb a lot very quickly. A quick search shows that it's a rate of around 60a. Make sure your wiring can handle that.
2) I'm not the best at this, but running a ground to the other battery and a ground to the tub like you have may not be the best. I'm not exactly sure what is the best way, but that raises concerns for me having 2 paths to ground like that.
3) That lead acid battery can outgas nasty odorless, colorless, flammable gas during charging into the enclosed cabin of your Jeep. Especially if it ever gets overcharged.
1) If the Jeep is off and the fridge drains the battery, that battery is going to want to absorb a lot very quickly. A quick search shows that it's a rate of around 60a. Make sure your wiring can handle that.
2) I'm not the best at this, but running a ground to the other battery and a ground to the tub like you have may not be the best. I'm not exactly sure what is the best way, but that raises concerns for me having 2 paths to ground like that.
3) That lead acid battery can outgas nasty odorless, colorless, flammable gas during charging into the enclosed cabin of your Jeep. Especially if it ever gets overcharged.
The main battery is on the left as is the aux battery. I wasn't too concerned about the battery in the cabin, most of the time the windows are out anyway. And the rear one doesn't seal like the original:
I did use a kit for the system: https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn...l-Battery-Volt-Meter-Kit---VT140DBKV/p/116845
I'm not an electrician but the wiring looks simple enough. It's a parallel battery setup with a relay in between.
I did use a kit for the system: https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn...l-Battery-Volt-Meter-Kit---VT140DBKV/p/116845
I'm not an electrician but the wiring looks simple enough. It's a parallel battery setup with a relay in between.
In the case of a 12 volt system, a smaller wire or a longer run will serve as resistance and will experience a voltage drop thus limiting the charge current, so even if the charge wire is undersized it may slow down the charge due to it's voltage drop but at the same time it's voltage drop and resulting current drop will in effect prevent the undersized wire from overheating. In fact this is a common way to protect the alternator from burning itself up in a motorhome or a tow vehicle. It should however, still be fused at it's ampacity as should any positive wire.
In a 2 wire DC automotive system this is not a problem. Any current that leaves each battery will only return to the battery that it came from regardless of multiple grounding points, it's the only way a circuit can work. In a sense, the two batteries connected in parallel are just one big battery bank when the relay is closed but when parked and the relay is open they will become 2 separate batteries and current leaving battery B will all return to battery B whether thru the frame or a direct connection to battery B, or a combination of both paths. The two paths will however decrease the total resistance of the charging circuit allowing more current to flow during charging which is another reason to fuse the positive wire at or below it's rated ampacity.
(Keep in mind that with both batteries connected together with a cable provides a path to the frame anyway thru the engine battery's frame connection)
Totally agree.
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I used those exact same things when I routed the winch controller & inverter cables through the firewall. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B6W82TD?tag=wranglerorg-20