Replacing door defeat mini fuse with a mini breaker as a switch?

toximus

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In my recent hunt through electrical catalogs I came across a unique product. It's a mini breaker that seems to fit in place of a mini fuse slot. The part number is 1610-H2-10A (I attached a PDF with the specs). They're about $10 and I'm thinking could work as a switch in the OEM location for the door defeat fuse.

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Anyone wants one of the switches hit me up.. I made one like the Q'Tec switch and later replaced it with the Mercedes Benz door switches.. It's sitting in my parts bin someplace.
 
In my recent hunt through electrical catalogs I came across a unique product. It's a mini breaker that seems to fit in place of a mini fuse slot. The part number is 1610-H2-10A (I attached a PDF with the specs). They're about $10 and I'm thinking could work as a switch in the OEM location for the door defeat fuse.

View attachment 525866

I have always wondered how those might work- love to hear.
 
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Is the average breaker designed to be used as a switch as many times as a switch gets used without wearing out? For some reason I vaguely remember someone saying that they aren't, maybe during my Electricity Class at the vocational school 40 years ago.
 
Is the average breaker designed to be used as a switch as many times as a switch gets used without wearing out? For some reason I vaguely remember someone saying that they aren't, maybe during my Electricity Class at the vocational school 40 years ago.

Depends on the breaker and if there's a surge (inrush) current.
 
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According to this, the fuse is actually ATO fuse size, not Mini: https://www.e-t-a.com/fileadmin/use...res_en/B_TRA-Schutzschalter_Uebersicht_en.pdf So it won't work for this application.

1620-3H-10A is the correct size for Mini.

1715462594637.png


Seems like it'd stick out really far compared to the other fuses and risk getting bent. Cool that these things exist, but I think that's a deal breaker for me for this application.
 
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I am not sure if it was coincidence or it’s supposed to be this way. I noticed after I removed the fuse for the interior lights, the buzzer notifying me I left the headlights on no longer works. I haven’t put the fuse back in to see if it would start working again. I like the idea of the switch since I won’t misplace the fuse.
 
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According to this, the fuse is actually ATO fuse size, not Mini: https://www.e-t-a.com/fileadmin/use...res_en/B_TRA-Schutzschalter_Uebersicht_en.pdf So it won't work for this application.

1620-3H-10A is the correct size for Mini.

View attachment 526065

Seems like it'd stick out really far compared to the other fuses and risk getting bent. Cool that these things exist, but I think that's a deal breaker for me for this application.

I used one of these when I was diagnosing my brake lights. The 20amp kept popping intermittently. So I bought this to reset without having to use up a new 20amp fuse

Worked great. Length didn’t matter and it worked for me during a 200mile road trip.

I say use it. They’re super handy for diagnosis.
 
I am not sure if it was coincidence or it’s supposed to be this way. I noticed after I removed the fuse for the interior lights, the buzzer notifying me I left the headlights on no longer works. I haven’t put the fuse back in to see if it would start working again. I like the idea of the switch since I won’t misplace the fuse.

The buzzer sounds when the headlights are on with the ignition off and a door open. Since pulling the fuse defeats the door switches, that buzzer won’t function with the fuse out.
 
How does the MB switch install/work?
Replace the door pins with MB door pins. Looks like the price of the switch as just about tripled since I bought them. I paid less than $20 per switch.

With doors off/open you can simply pull the pin out until it clicks, locking it in the off position and that defeats the circuit.. same result as pulling the fuse or installing a switch. Put doors back on and close them and it pushes the pin back in to the normal spring loaded position to work as normal.

I often use it when I working on the Jeep and the doors are open for extended periods... just to be safe

I made a switch that was mounted under the passenger footwell but fumbling around to find it by hand was a PITA. Sitting in my parts pile somewhere.. i
 
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Replace the door pins with MB door pins. Looks like the price of the switch as just about tripled since I bought them. I paid less than $20 per switch.

With doors off/open you can simply pull the pin out until it clicks, locking it in the off position and that defeats the circuit.. same result as pulling the fuse or installing a switch. Put doors back on and close them and it pushes the pin back in to the normal spring loaded position to work as normal.

I often use it when I working on the Jeep and the doors are open for extended periods... just to be safe

I made a switch that was mounted under the passenger footwell but fumbling around to find it by hand was a PITA. Sitting in my parts pile somewhere.. i

Wow... I have had mine installed for 2 years so I hadn't looked at prices lately. I just looked up my order and I got mine on Amazon for $14 each. I'm seeing them as high as $80 online. That's insane.
 
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Wow... I have had mine installed for 2 years so I hadn't looked at prices lately. I just looked up my order and I got mine on Amazon for $14 each. I'm seeing them as high as $80 online. That's insane.

Agreed.. I paid $16 each. Pretty sure I have at least one 'extra' in my parts bin.. maybe two.
 
I used one of these when I was diagnosing my brake lights. The 20amp kept popping intermittently. So I bought this to reset without having to use up a new 20amp fuse

Worked great. Length didn’t matter and it worked for me during a 200mile road trip.

I say use it. They’re super handy for diagnosis.

I'm having the same issue although my brake light fuse has only blown once in a year. I put in a fuse with an LED indicator so I can occasionally open the glove box, step on the brake and check. What did your intermittent fuse blowing turn out to be?
 
Replace the door pins with MB door pins. Looks like the price of the switch as just about tripled since I bought them. I paid less than $20 per switch.

With doors off/open you can simply pull the pin out until it clicks, locking it in the off position and that defeats the circuit.. same result as pulling the fuse or installing a switch. Put doors back on and close them and it pushes the pin back in to the normal spring loaded position to work as normal.

I often use it when I working on the Jeep and the doors are open for extended periods... just to be safe

I made a switch that was mounted under the passenger footwell but fumbling around to find it by hand was a PITA. Sitting in my parts pile somewhere.. i

This is the solution I'm going with! Thanks for mentioning it!

Anyone know what the 3 way connector is that factory Jeep used?
 
Replace the door pins with MB door pins. Looks like the price of the switch as just about tripled since I bought them. I paid less than $20 per switch.

With doors off/open you can simply pull the pin out until it clicks, locking it in the off position and that defeats the circuit.. same result as pulling the fuse or installing a switch. Put doors back on and close them and it pushes the pin back in to the normal spring loaded position to work as normal.

I often use it when I working on the Jeep and the doors are open for extended periods... just to be safe

I made a switch that was mounted under the passenger footwell but fumbling around to find it by hand was a PITA. Sitting in my parts pile somewhere.. i

Do they need a mercedes pigtail to be spliced in?