Solved: Clunk when loading and unloading drivetrain

Mike_H

autos are better - WRWD508
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Feb 28, 2017
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Location
Grand Rapids, MI, United States
I'll try to put as much detail here as I can to aid the braintrust at diagnosis. Hopefully @Jerry Bransford , @mrblaine , @David Kishpaugh and other wrangler gurus will see this.

I'm getting a clunk when the drivetrain is loaded or unloaded. I can replicate it by pushing the clutch in, like driving through the gears, or by leaving it in second and rapidly pushing the throttle on and off. This is a new problem, since my lift and it seems to be getting worse.

First off...what did I change. My lift consisted of
1" Motor Mount Lift
1.25 Body Lift
2" OME springs
Bilstein Shocks
Bar Pin Eliminators in the rear
DIY gas tank skid tuck
Savvy tcase cable shifter
I also put a new transmission mount in.

While I was working on the lift:
Both axle housings were out of the vehicle. The control arms were torqued when reinstalled, and I've checked them again. I don't think they are loose, but the bushings are original. I also pulled both rear axle shafts. I did this to get the backing plates off (disc brake Dana 44 rear axle). I have since developed a leak in my driver's side axle seal. Don't know if its related...but it is something that is different

Since I've put it back on the road April 1, the clunk has gotten worse, to the point that I started crawling around underneath it this weekend. This is my troubleshooting account.

First thought was something loose...motor mount, tranny mount, skid plate...something. I used a 2 foot prybar and all the big things (engine, tranny, skidplate) are tight and don't show any obvious movement.

After that, I checked my control arms with the same prybar. No obvious movement there either. Nothing is moving enough to clunk. I do have a little bit of movement on my front uppers, axle side, but that looks like its just the rubber compressing. Same with the track bar (F&R), sway bar links, and shocks.

Next, I moved on to U-joints. I couldn't feel any play side to side, or trying to wiggle them with the pry bar. even so...I pulled the front and went for a drive. Still clunking. I pulled the rear...no clunking! I tried HARD to make it clunk...and nothing. Nearly broke the front tires loose I tried so much. I thought I had found it. Maybe one of the joints was on the way out but not bad enough to wiggle yet. Anyway, I bought new joints and replaced them this evening. Bolted the DS back in...Clunk. I tried in 4wd...and I still have a clunk, but not as bad.

This will happen on the shift from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3. After that, its pretty quiet. Also, If I'm very gentle, I can drive it without clunking.

The clunk sounds as though its coming from right under the driver's seat. Its very metallic (though it doesn't ring). If I had to guess, just based on sound, I'd say the T-case was smacking the Skid plate. It does not appear to be doing so, but who knows.

Any ideas? I'm kind of at a loss. I'm convinced something is moving, but I have NO idea what else to check.

Thanks!
 
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I suspect you probably have excess backlash in the diff or tcase output. The changes in driveline angle may have changed the noise it makes. Also check the slip on the drive shaft for rotational play, could be that to.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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Ok, how do I check for excessive back lash? More importantly, what is excessive? I do have some rotational play or backlash in both diffs. It's nothing I would consider excessive through.

I hope it doesn't seem like I'm arguing here... I'm really not. Just trying to understand what's going on.
 
I was having a similar noise. Turned out that my control arms 1. needed more grease and 2. the hyme joint was a bit crooked.
 
Sounds just like mine did which was caused by control arms. I could replicate the sound by quickly pushing them releasing the throttle.
 
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Does it make the noise if you push on it in the driveway with the e-brake on? If so, it should be fairly easy to track down with the help of a friend.
Here are the torque specs for the control arms. found on wr forum

FRONT -

Suspension Arm Lower
Axle Bracket Nut 120

Suspension Arm Lower
Frame Bracket Nut 130

Suspension Arm Upper
Axle Bracket Nut 55

Suspension Arm Upper
Frame Bracket Bolt 55

REAR -

Suspension Arm Lower
Axle Bracket Nut 130

Suspension Arm Lower
Frame Bracket Nut 130

Suspension Arm Upper
Axle Bracket Nut 55

Suspension Arm Upper
Frame Bracket Bolt 55

Track bar 55
 
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How do the bushings look on the oem control arms?
 
Hmmm... can you hear it if you load the suspension by jumping up and down on the front or rear bumper?